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Performance Upgrades - Maintenance - Modifications - Problem Solving - Off-Road - Street Trucks. Covering the Explorer, ST, Sport, Lincoln Aviator, Sport Trac, Mercury Mountaineer, Mazda Navajo, Ford Ranger, Mazda Pickups, and the Aerostar. Featuring H.I. - Human Intelligence.
Got around to making a video on this common complaint finally. Usually very frustrating as it can be intermittent more often than just totally inoperative. The number one cause of the cruise not working is the brake pressure deactivator switch. In this video I show you a simple way to test it as it is the first thing I look at when a car comes in the shop with cruise control issues. Hope this helps.
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You must test it on car as shown, they can stick, if you cannot test yours just change it out with a new Ford one and it will likely be fixed. This is the only thing I have ever changed on these trucks for inop cruise.
You must test it on car as shown, they can stick, if you cannot test yours just change it out with a new Ford one and it will likely be fixed. This is the only thing I have ever changed on these trucks for inop cruise.
Great tip! I noticed saturday that the cruise control was not working on my '04. Did that jumper test and low and behold, cruise control worked! Picking up that sensor this week when I get paid! This board and guys like you are a godsend makuloco2000!
I did not have my X in '07 when this thread was started, so I do not know if that recall at the time would apply to my '04 or not now? It is a simple enough diagnosis, but I see your point, the masses are not willing nor capable of doing these simple fixes themselves!
Got around to making a video on this common complaint finally. Usually very frustrating as it can be intermittent more often than just totally inoperative. The number one cause of the cruise not working is the brake pressure deactivator switch. In this video I show you a simple way to test it as it is the first thing I look at when a car comes in the shop with cruise control issues. Hope this helps.
OK I have a cruise control issue. Its not working at all. I did the cruise control self test by holding the off button while going from IGN on to off to on then it flashed once so I pressed the On button then Resume, then coast, then set/accel and the light blinked after each button press so I know my buttons are good. But after I push the last button in the sequence (Set/Accel) the light flashes twice and the cruise control servo test does not begin, it doesn't move the cable to throttle arm at all. Nor does the servo spin. I have replaced the speed control deactivator switch twice with 2 junkyard pulls and I tested all 3 of them at pin 9 on the cruise control module connector(C122) and theyre all working as they should, I also replaced the cruise control servo module with a junkyard part as well and the self test results were the same. I have also tested all the wiring at the cruise control servo module connector (C122) all the way back to their point of origin for resistance and they all check out ok and I also checked the function of each wire at C122 with the exception of pin 3 which is VSS (vehicle speed sensor input) but I will do that later on but I also just replaced both my front wheel bearings and they both came with new speed sensors so I know theyre good. When I first bought the truck the ABS used to engage when it shouldn't while pressing the brakes so I just pulled the fuse on the ABS for a few yrs but the cruise control did work when I got it. Now I got the ABS fuse back in and the ABS hasn't engaged prematurely or anything but I haven't actually slammed on the brakes to make sure the ABS is working as it should(maybe in the next snowfall or decent rain). The only damaged component in that system I could forsee would be the rear diff speed sensor although I have not tested that yet either. But having 2 brand new speed sensors on the front wheels should be good enough for the cruise control to function even if the rear speed sensor was no good right?
So back to the self test diagnostics. I just read some new stuff on Fords Tech site. After the last button push(Set/Accel) I get 2 light flashes. If the test had passed I would only get 1 flash with the button press right? and then the servo test would begin right? OK so according to the workshop manual "2 flashes: Brake pedal position (BPP) switch is defective, circuit is defective, or brake pedal is applied; clutch pedal position (CPP) switch is defective, circuit is defective, or clutch pedal is applied" For flash code 2 workshop manual states to go to pinpoint test G which diagnosis brake pedal position switch circuitry. I got to PPT G3 and it stated to replace speed control servo module which I didn't think would work but I did it anyway. I'm gonna have to go further into PPT G. but then their is also another symptom in the chart which is "Flash with last switch pressed, but no dynamic pull occurs at the throttle and the speed control is inoperative" which means the self test passed but I think I would've only seen 1 flash after the last button push then. However this instructs to go to PPT F which states to basically just check the cable for binding and proper slack and if its good replace the speed control servo module which again I didn't think would work but I did it anyway.
I guess based on the 2 flash result from the cruise control on board self test I will go into further diagnosis on my brake pedal position switch. I also have people telling me my brake lights or my tail lights are out once in a while but I think thas just cuz my lenses are tinted lol. But the brake pedal position switches on the older explorers and crown vics are **** anyway, the thing with them is no matter where you are in the pedal travel as soon as you release any kind of pressure off it, it shuts the brake lights off. That's why sometimes you see crown vic cop cars with their brake lights flashing. Ford did have an update for this for the Vic but I think it was just a connector replacement cuz maybe they melted or something, didn't fix **** IMO. I did take my brake pedal position switch apart at one time to clean the contacts and slightly bend the contacts so that the switch would work better. Also another thing to note is I installed a Banshee Supercharger kit on my 4.0 and with that kit the cruise control is suppose to be deleted but I made a custom bracket for it and I got the cruise cable situated properly and I could even get a crown vic or grand marquis cruise control cable to make it even better but with the cable I have on it now the slack is just right and the cable moves nicely within the loom sheathing so I firmly don't think binding would be an issue at all.
Picking up that sensor this week when I get paid! This board and guys like you are a godsend makuloco2000! 
