Current system... What next fella's!?!

[Skippman]

Ok, braging time. Here's what I'm sporting:

ALPINE IVA-C800 HEAD UNIT
ALPINE PXA-H510 DIGITAL SIGNAL PROCESSOR

ROCKFORD FOSGATE 400A4 AMP
CROSSFIRE 200x2 AMP

BOSTON ACCOUSTICS PRO SERIES 5 1/4 COMPONENTS
BOSTON ACCOUSTICS RALLY SERIES 5 1/4 COMPONENTS
MTX THUNDERFORM 10" SUB

ALPINE 8083 SECURITY SYSTEM
NOKIA HANDS FREE KIT W/ SPEAKER-PHONE

SONY PLAYSATION

AMD K6/2 W/ 160 MB RAM AND 40 GIG HD for MP3 joy, DVD playback, and GPS navigation.

What else does my sytems need? I'm currently working on a center channel. And the whole vehicle has been dynamated. I'm thinking CD changer next.

 

[nytefog]

New Car

All you need is a new explorer to put that all in.

 

[RFR2212]

If ya get bored....you could throw 2 10's up front....This definatly would be custom in an explorer, and would blow ya away even more while watching some dvd's with 5.1 sound
Just a thought.....
Pete

 

[mrsteve]

10's would be hard to do. But 8's in the kick panels, with crossovers sending frequencies between 85-250Hz would add crazy midbass to the front sound stage.

Just a thought

Steve

 

[Lamah]

10's in front wouldnt be worth it. your goal with subs is to vibrate the whole car, you dont need to be close for them to hit hard. a good setup will shake all of the car almsot equally.

 

[mrsteve]

Lamah...What are you talking about??

The reason people add subwoofers to their audio systems is to add subbass frequencies to their music; frequencies which would ordinarily go unheard because coaxial speakers can't produce such low tones. By adding subwoofers (of any size) to the front of any vehicle will help produce upfront bass. Upfront bass is very hard to create in SUV's such as ours. By adding subs to the front you will blend the bass from the rear to the front. Especially if the subs upfront only play midbass (85Hz-250Hz)

I don't know of anyone who adds subs to their system just to vibrate the entire care. I actually don't like the car to shake. That's why I have Dynamat sound deadener placed all through out the Explorer. It still rattles but more Dynamat will solve the problem eventually. If your goal with subs is to vibrate the entire car why not go buy a bunch of Sony xplod subs for $30 a piece and run them off a $100 Jensen amp?? That would shake the car and cost a lot less than those perfects you are running now.

Steve

 

[JTang]

If you have space, you could always put 8s in the front doors and put a single ten on the front hump. Then you could dump the subs in the rear so your soundstage would be set up; either that or crossover the rear sub to a superlow frequency to mask its position. The only other thing I could think of is one of for you is internet access, and the new cable radio, where you pay $15 a month for something like 300 channels of commercial free music with the descrambler. Other than that, maybe a cap or two. Beyond that, it'll be time to buy a new car to fix up.

Oh, I know, get the TDS sound processor. (Two if you want front and rear) It's supposed to work wonders to increase the ambience in close quarters.

 

[Exploder99]

Originally posted by Skippman

What else does my sytems need?

How bout a TV Tuner?

 

[rock883]

I'm with MrSteve, I don't add subs to vibrate the whole car. I just think it sounds better with the lows in there, thats why I am putting a sub in there. Actually I wish it wouldn't make everything rattle. And the reason why I am upgrading is because the 10" I had just got distorted when turned up and I didn't like that, so I wanted something that could handle more power and sounded good.

 

[sideswipe]

Can you guys please stop ragging on my Jensen amp!!! LOL

 

[JT]

How do you like the bostons up front?

 

[Lamah]

ok, even if your goal is sound quality and not spl, you still want the bass to reflect first as far away from you as possible. which is why most subs face the rear. other wise it doesnt sound right.

 

[Skippman]

I like them alot acutally. Install was painless. The cross-overs fit nicely in the doors. Tweaters are mounted on the A-Pilars. Very clean mid's and high's.

The only thing I don't like is the tweaters have a tendancy to sound "brite". This has been fixed now with the addition of the PHA-H510 Digital Signal Processor. I used the Parametric EQ to dampen the extreme highs and it appears to have fixed the problem. Good imaging was obtained with the time correction feature on the H510 as well. Gotta love that Doulby Prologic! Great until I get that center channel installed.

The speakers themselves are very energy efficent. The Rockford Fosgate has more than enough juice for them at 50Watts per channel.

 

[Skippman]

WHOA! Never imagined the response this would get. Ok. Heres my answer to the suggestions.

1.) CAPS
Not needed. Never had a power problem. I am adding a 200AMP Stinger alternator soon so power consumption is a non-issue.


2.) TV TUNER
Excellent idea! I've been looking into it. I descided to hold off on that until I get the Confer roof rack installed so I can mask the 4 diversity antenna's.


3.) SUBS UP FRONT
Another good idea. I've been toying with some Diamond Hex series 6's or 8's up front in kick pods. BTW the whole "Tweeters in the kick pods" thing is a myth. Get a good DSP/Crossover and you can adjust all of that out of the system.


4.) CROSSOVERS
Check out the PHA-H510 at www.apline1.com/html/p2_n_1_n_n.hmtl You'd be suprised what it can do for a system. And it's AI NET! WHOO HOO!


5.) INTERNET ACCESS
I am currently listed with Metrocomm as a Beta tester of there new Richocete technology in St. Louis. Wireless 128K cellular Internet for $30 per month flat rate.


And lastly, yeah that Jensen AMPs got to go man!

 

[JT]

where did you mount the amp for the doors? I am looking to put some Boston Pros in my fronts, i love my Q's but i like the brite highs the bostons can produce.

 

[Skippman]

Actually both amps can be found on the passangers side behind the plastic walls/kickpannels. One below the rear passanger speaker (The Rockford for the components front and rear). The second can be found about where the factory amp was (The Crossfire wired to the MTX Thunderform).

I went for a totally stealth install and achieved it. Mounting the amps was easy. I did it after I Dynamated the back. Only rattle on the whole system is the rear hatch. I'm working on that now. Nothing some Dynamat, Insulation, and weather striping can't fix. Insullation makes a great baffle.

 

[JT]

sweet, thanks, i cured my rattle with some xtreme dynamat

Peace