Custom Body, Frame, electrical build.

[Rfoley22]

Been away from this forum for quite awhile, but am seriously getting into my re-build on my 1992 4x4 XLT. I am going over every inch of this vehicle. It is a long term build so excuse if few updates at times.

I welcome comments and suggestions, though do not welcome attacks, and find comments of "just dont do that" without discussion of for why are unhelpful.

It is going to have a complete re-wire of the electrical system, isolating the accessories from the engine systems, an utilizing two batteries. I hope to be able to provide some information to this forum about the wiring colors and schematics of both OEM and my modified circuitry.



Possible Projects include:
Rear SOA, rear Tire clearance (36"?)
Frame modifications and possible Tag axle to facilitate fabrications of tracks for snow and mud use.
Body modifications; open front fenders (front tire clearance), engine cowling, rear wheel clearance.
Paint, Paint, Paint, so much things to paint.
Interior, Composite dashboard floor and ceiling panels. new upholstery.
GPS, Cellular, WIFI, and voice/data radio communications.
Cellular integration (ie. remote start from cell phone, remote kill, location and status functions etc.)
Integrated computer system for OBDI, music, navigation, etc. screen in dashboard.
Exterior and interior lights and accessories. 120vac bus to be added in addition to 12vdc, as well as additional lights, air compressor, etc.
engine has 300k+ miles on original timing chain and may require work, although compression checks good.

Heres what has happened in 2013

note cute model is the girlfriend

Stay tuned for more.

 

[Rfoley22]

SOA is planned, as well as potential 36" tires, and I have been contemplating treads for a long time. I know that they can be bought and installed at the wheels, but are quite pricy.

I have seen another design that I think could be fabricated. I have seen them used in person on tandem axles, semis, and some vehicles in the mountains here in Colorado. Below are some links to companies making the design I have in mind, for snow, mud, and sand use, not rock really.

http://www.righttracksystemsinc.com/tandem-axle-trailer-track-systems.html

here is another concept sold by JM Innovations, Inc., Edwardsville, Ill.,

Anyhow, this and disdain for hitting my hitch on the ground through dips and on steep hills makes me want to try a tandem axle, un-powered, that can be removed as easily as a hitch or snow-plow and mount. ie. it should be removed by removing a hydraulic strut, shock absorber, and half dozen good size bolts.

I think there could be mounted a frame allowing this tag axle to be raised and lowered by a hydraulic actuator. It could even by lowered enough to raise the OEM rear axle off the ground.

how would something like this be to see driving down the road?

It could be lowered from inside the cab, and treads put on as easily as chains. The rear wheel also does not need to be the same size as the others. The axle would directly support the hitch, allowing trailer weight to be placed on this further rear axle increasing capacity and/or eliminating sag at normal capacity. I will try to draw the Frame and mounts I have in mind in Solidworks this week and post.

 

[Suicide77]

Wow, that's an original idea! On paper it looks like something feasible. I assume this would probably go along with a winch on the front? If you have the means to give it a shot, go for it! Build looks good so far man, definitely staying tuned!

 

[FIND]

36" tires and an SOA... it's gonna get a whole lot harder to hit that hitch when you go through ditches or steep inclines. I guess I'm having a hard time seeing the usefulness of a tag, but I guess if it is just to accommodate a track... But in that case, you will have to cut away the bottom side of the body behind the wheel well to fit the tag and track.

Otherwise, the only sense a tag ever makes is to increase the load capacity of the truck, and anything that a set of 10 ply tires can't carry is going to put too much stress on your frame anyway.

 

[siguaw]

Whenever the GF is is involved you are already ahead. If it doesnt involve her Passport or Silverado I can't get mine out of the house. You're lucky mate

 

[JMan689]

Wouldn't [URL="http://www.mattracks.com/']Mattracks[/URL] be an easier solution to using tracks?

 

[obie]

Wouldn't [URL="http://www.mattracks.com/']Mattracks[/URL] be an easier solution to using tracks?

If you're made of money. I'd love to have a set, but the ones that are designed for SUVs like the EX are about 25 large for all four.

 

[Rfoley22]

I know that they can be bought and installed at the wheels, but are quite pricy.

I have seen another design that I think could be fabricated.

True Mattracks are nice, but I'm a college student, so had I thousands of dollars, That would be my route...


I realize that it is may be unnecessary, especially with SOA, but so are hydraulic kits on low riders. Although it can look cool, there is no reason a low rider needs to be able to hop, likewise a tag axle is not needed, and I won't be able to suddenly increase carrying capacity by 10k#s, but may come in useful on the trails and with a trailer, and if it works facilitate tracks for substantially less monies.

I also already posses three different axles, and have access to an array of metal and machining tools.

Suicide77 : yes a winch, imagine being stuck, but being able to substantially lift the rear (remove rear pumpkin, fuel tank, or transfer case from atop rock), and pull out with FWD and winch.

Siguaw : yes I am lucky, she wants to get my ex back up to the hills as much as I do.

 

[jd4242]

36" tires and an SOA... it's gonna get a whole lot harder to hit that hitch when you go through ditches or steep inclines. I guess I'm having a hard time seeing the usefulness of a tag, but I guess if it is just to accommodate a track... But in that case, you will have to cut away the bottom side of the body behind the wheel well to fit the tag and track.

Otherwise, the only sense a tag ever makes is to increase the load capacity of the truck, and anything that a set of 10 ply tires can't carry is going to put too much stress on your frame anyway.

With 36" tires and lift I would imagine you would roll over before or if your hitch hits.but depends on how low it is.

OP
You can do a in frame hidden hitch like I did and get it up farther.I run 36" tires and can tell you, ill roll before my rear hits on step grades.also your probably going to need more than just a soa to clear 36" tires, depending on width and offset.I run around 11" to clear mine

In these pics I had about 9- 10" of lift and fiberglass front and would rub wile hard flexing
Rear
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=320984

Front
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=358149

 

[bovine]

Very nice i like the idea of a tag axle but if your using it for snow/mud it probably would not hurt for it to be a drive axle.

 

[obie]

So I'm curious about what your process was for lifting the body off the frame.

 

[Rfoley22]

So I'm curious about what your process was for lifting the body off the frame.

Sorry I've been away quite awhile, my Daily driver was stolen, and in another incident I lost my computer. My remaining focus has shifted from the car to my Engineering classes for the time being.

My background is in Aircraft, including experience assembling helicopters, and putting together major fuselage components and attaching/removing wings for ground transport and storage. To remove the body it is relatively straight forward, you remove the frame to body bolts, and any cables/wires that will interfere. Then you simply lift the body off. We used 5 people to lift the body, 3 strong men may be able to lift it, but more people can mean more control.

The key important thing though is to ensure that how you support the body will not result in any bending. Such bending and flexing can cause the doors not to fit upon re-assembly, and can cause other troubles and damage.

I created 4 jigs from sturdy lumber to lift the body by, they fit onto the "rails" under the body and spread the weight evenly. I have them still and can take pictures when we re-assemble the vehicle of how they are used.
I did not take pictures during removal though, wasn't thinking about camera as much as not dropping the body and telling my less skilled helpers what to do.

The frame sits atop some of those jigs and a selection of sawhorses, positioned in order to keep the weight on the mount points and prevent bending. We were able to then roll the frame/engine out from under the body.

I also bypassed trouble in the engine compartment. I will be building a cowling type design, rather than using the traditional hood, so the engine box was cut forward of the firewall to avoid further removal of the engine at this time. In order to preserve the original engine compartment more dismantling would be needed in the front including some cooling system work.

 

[Rfoley22]

However, I have been able to work some on the electrical system. I hope to run the engine again soon, and finishing the painting of the frame and wiring the engine are my first priorities.

my gripes at the OEM system;
1. the wires run on the floor
2. Critical engine systems share harnesses with non-critical systems such as radio and lighting. Isolation can prevent radio interference and ease troubleshooting.
3. Many wires (speaker wires best example) cris-cross and figure-eight the vehicle instead of running directly to components. Wiring and cables runs can be simplified and re-routed to make troubleshooting easier.
4. Wires are 22 years old, and are damaged in places.


How I see splitting it (with many new parts added ie: 120vAC):

Electrical system:

Engine systems. Dedicated starting battery.
Required engine/driving systems. Maintain OEM design while isolating systems and simplifying cable runs. Waterproofing.
Engine, ABS, Transmission, Emissions, Fuel, Only the most Minimal systems needed for driving fully functional vehicle safely.

Accessories. Dedicated accessory battery(ies) can be drained without impact on starting
12vDC system Bus
Lights
Interior
Exterior
Specialty
Radio
CD/head
OEM cassette head
Analog scanner
Digital scanner
Pentium based Computer system
engine/vehicle monitoring integration. OBDI, fuel, door status, etc
Music/Radio mixing/management
GPS/moving map GPS, using speed and trip history for ETA
Heater/AC/OEM accessories that are not in other category
4X4
Doors/Windows locks and open/closed

powered by 12VDC bus, 120vAC system Bus
Inverter 1. 3500W
Outlets front/Rear. tools, external PA, Large electronics.
Inverter 2. 500W
outlets dash/ center console. phone and personal electronic.

 

[obie]

Ahh, I thought you maybe had something fancy set up to lift it off. I wound up just taking mine to the bodyshop to pull it off after I finished everything else. Then I got a credit for giving them the body cart I had bought for it.

Good luck with the electrical stuff though. That's my least favorite part of auto work.