ipozestu
Elite Explorer
- Joined
- February 24, 2003
- Messages
- 812
- Reaction score
- 2
- City, State
- San Mateo, CA
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- '98 Sportie
Due to the over whelming response to the latest and greatest intake out of "My Monster Garage", here is the write up your looking for.
What you'll Need:
12" section of 3" ABS drain pipe.
3"/2" rubber reducer
3" 90deg ABS street elbow
3" 45deg ABS elbow
3x 3" Pro Flex couplings
Roll of electrical insulation tape
Grommets
Beer
Patience
Note: For this particular DIY I did quite a bit of cutting to make it look cleaner, but you can simply use the pipe couplings if you would rather not use the Pro Flex couplings.
Section 1: Trim it down
This is where we will do most of our cutting. Use the stock intake as a template for sizing.
A. The first piece you need to cut is the 90 deg street elbow. The part that you want to cut is the coupling. As you look at the coupling you will notice a slight angled stip where the coupling reduces down to the 3" pipe. This is the line you want to use for reference when cutting. The idea here is to leave a small lip on the pipe for the Pro Flex to grab. Now don't just go and hack away. It needs to be straight, and precise. We are dealing with strict tolerance here. A hack saw will work but it is very hard to keep a straight line. I used a Roto Zip with the Zip Mate attachment. Really use anything you want just make sure its straight and precise.
B. The next piece to cut is the 45 deg elbow. This piece is cut in the exact same manner as the 90 deg. You will want to cut both ends on this one. Remember keep it straight and precise.
C. Lastly the 12" piece of 3" ABS. I said 12" to give youself room to play with. Keep this piece at this length for now. It will probably have to be trimmed to about 10" when it comes time for assembly. 12" is a good workable length until you get everything together.
Section 2: Sanding
You can do as little or as much as you want here. Step A. is a must though. I would like to recommed all cut ends be sanded smooth. A random orbit sander is your tool of choice here.
A. All of your pieces should now be cut. If done correctly the ends of the elbows should be straight, with a sharp angled lip. These lips need to be sanded down so they are rounded yet still large enough to catch on the Pro Flex coupling as it is inserted and removed. Because we removed most of the seating surface for the Pro Flex coupling on the inside of the bend it is very important to take your time on this lip. This lip will keep everything together and solid.
B. Now this is for extra credit. Sand the out side of all the pipe and elbows to prep for primer & paint. You don't have to do this, but you don't need to make a custom intake either. So do it right.
Section 3: MAF Fitting
A. As might have noticed the fitting on the outlet side of the MAF sensor is not 3". You'll need to build this up a bit with the insulation tape. This tape comes in a roll and has a removable piece of plastic that keeps it separated, and from sticking to its self. If you have not used this stuff before you'll love. Very cool for all kinds of stuff.
B. The inlet side of the MAF sensor is up to you. Get a KKM, K&N FIPK for a Mustang(this is what I got), or use your air box. A shower drain can also be used but, I don't have any experience with that.
Section 4: Assembly
Are we getting the picture yet? Hope so. Now it's time to start putting this guy togther to check for length and make sure you didn't screw anything up. It's pretty simple from here on out.
A. The 3/2" reducer goes on the uncut end of the 90 deg street elbow. This will eventually hook up to your TB. Put a little silicone GREASE/LUBE (not sealant) on there for ease of assembly and removal.
B. Slip a Pro Flex coupling on the cut end of the 90 deg elbow. You'll have to play with this a little. The outside of the bend will seat completely while the inside of the bend will not. Thus is why the lip is so important.
C. Slip the 12" piece of 3" ABS into the 90 deg Pro Flex coupling. Seat this one completely.
D. Slip another Pro Flex coupling on the other end of the 12" piece of 3" ABS. Seat this completely.
E. Slip th 45 deg elbow into the Pro Flex. Again you'll have to play a little to properly seat the lip of the 45 deg elbow.
F. Finally slip the last Pro Flex on to the other end of the 45 deg elbow. Same as before fiddle required.
Section 5: Cutting to Size and Drilling
By now you should realize that this will work.
A. You need to size up your new intake to the stock intake and cut the center tube to adjust the total length of the intake to match the stocker. The tube length should be about 10" after cutting. Like I said this may vary so take some measurements.
B. There are two holes that need to be drilled. One for the oil sump vapor, and the other for the IAT sensor. For the IAT sensor hole use a 1/2" drill bit and place your hole in reference as close to the stock position as possible. This hole will have to be widened a bit to allow for the grommet and the sensor. Be careful you don't go to big. Or other wise well, your you own.
For the Vapor line I used a 3/4" wood boaring bit, and reamed this one out with a 1/2' drill bit to widen for the grommet and fitting. Again use discretion here. To big+ To bad.
Section 6: Final Assembly and Installation
Nice Job!!! Almost home. Hang in there. Clean everything out, make sure there are no drill shavings or sanding dust inside the tube. Do this any way you want just make sure it's clean.
A. Assemble the intake as stated in Section 4:
B. Don't tighten the clamp completely just snug them to make sure everything went as planned. Basically double check all you work.
C. Attach the MAF sensor. Be sure the end you built up fits snuggly into the Pro Flex. Lightly tighten the clamps to keep form going any where.
D. Insert the grommets into the holes you drilled.
E. Now take your nice new intake and mosey on out to your rig.
F. Take the reducer of the 90 deg elbow and secure it to the throttle body.
G. Insert the 90 deg street fitting into the reducer. Straighten the elbow as much as you can for now and secure it by tightening the clamp on the 3" side on the reducer.
H. Loosely install the tube section into the pro flex coupling on the 90 deg elbow.
I. Some adjustment will be needed so keep everything lightly tightened and begin to snug down the clamps starting at the reducer and working your way to the MAF sensor. Do not overtighten the clamps especially on the lipped elbows or you will have excessive crimping in the Pro Flex. Just take your time and do a little bit at a time unit its all secure. You may need to secure to tube with a zip tie or other retaining device unitl the reducer starts to take shape and form to the bend it has to take to get on top of the fan shroud.
J. Insert the grommets, vac line, and IAT hook everything up. Double check, triple check.
K. Voila. Nice job. Now take some pics and show me how nice of a job you did. Here's Mine.
What you'll Need:
12" section of 3" ABS drain pipe.
3"/2" rubber reducer
3" 90deg ABS street elbow
3" 45deg ABS elbow
3x 3" Pro Flex couplings
Roll of electrical insulation tape
Grommets
Beer
Patience
Note: For this particular DIY I did quite a bit of cutting to make it look cleaner, but you can simply use the pipe couplings if you would rather not use the Pro Flex couplings.
Section 1: Trim it down
This is where we will do most of our cutting. Use the stock intake as a template for sizing.
A. The first piece you need to cut is the 90 deg street elbow. The part that you want to cut is the coupling. As you look at the coupling you will notice a slight angled stip where the coupling reduces down to the 3" pipe. This is the line you want to use for reference when cutting. The idea here is to leave a small lip on the pipe for the Pro Flex to grab. Now don't just go and hack away. It needs to be straight, and precise. We are dealing with strict tolerance here. A hack saw will work but it is very hard to keep a straight line. I used a Roto Zip with the Zip Mate attachment. Really use anything you want just make sure its straight and precise.
B. The next piece to cut is the 45 deg elbow. This piece is cut in the exact same manner as the 90 deg. You will want to cut both ends on this one. Remember keep it straight and precise.
C. Lastly the 12" piece of 3" ABS. I said 12" to give youself room to play with. Keep this piece at this length for now. It will probably have to be trimmed to about 10" when it comes time for assembly. 12" is a good workable length until you get everything together.
Section 2: Sanding
You can do as little or as much as you want here. Step A. is a must though. I would like to recommed all cut ends be sanded smooth. A random orbit sander is your tool of choice here.
A. All of your pieces should now be cut. If done correctly the ends of the elbows should be straight, with a sharp angled lip. These lips need to be sanded down so they are rounded yet still large enough to catch on the Pro Flex coupling as it is inserted and removed. Because we removed most of the seating surface for the Pro Flex coupling on the inside of the bend it is very important to take your time on this lip. This lip will keep everything together and solid.
B. Now this is for extra credit. Sand the out side of all the pipe and elbows to prep for primer & paint. You don't have to do this, but you don't need to make a custom intake either. So do it right.
Section 3: MAF Fitting
A. As might have noticed the fitting on the outlet side of the MAF sensor is not 3". You'll need to build this up a bit with the insulation tape. This tape comes in a roll and has a removable piece of plastic that keeps it separated, and from sticking to its self. If you have not used this stuff before you'll love. Very cool for all kinds of stuff.
B. The inlet side of the MAF sensor is up to you. Get a KKM, K&N FIPK for a Mustang(this is what I got), or use your air box. A shower drain can also be used but, I don't have any experience with that.
Section 4: Assembly
Are we getting the picture yet? Hope so. Now it's time to start putting this guy togther to check for length and make sure you didn't screw anything up. It's pretty simple from here on out.
A. The 3/2" reducer goes on the uncut end of the 90 deg street elbow. This will eventually hook up to your TB. Put a little silicone GREASE/LUBE (not sealant) on there for ease of assembly and removal.
B. Slip a Pro Flex coupling on the cut end of the 90 deg elbow. You'll have to play with this a little. The outside of the bend will seat completely while the inside of the bend will not. Thus is why the lip is so important.
C. Slip the 12" piece of 3" ABS into the 90 deg Pro Flex coupling. Seat this one completely.
D. Slip another Pro Flex coupling on the other end of the 12" piece of 3" ABS. Seat this completely.
E. Slip th 45 deg elbow into the Pro Flex. Again you'll have to play a little to properly seat the lip of the 45 deg elbow.
F. Finally slip the last Pro Flex on to the other end of the 45 deg elbow. Same as before fiddle required.
Section 5: Cutting to Size and Drilling
By now you should realize that this will work.
A. You need to size up your new intake to the stock intake and cut the center tube to adjust the total length of the intake to match the stocker. The tube length should be about 10" after cutting. Like I said this may vary so take some measurements.
B. There are two holes that need to be drilled. One for the oil sump vapor, and the other for the IAT sensor. For the IAT sensor hole use a 1/2" drill bit and place your hole in reference as close to the stock position as possible. This hole will have to be widened a bit to allow for the grommet and the sensor. Be careful you don't go to big. Or other wise well, your you own.
For the Vapor line I used a 3/4" wood boaring bit, and reamed this one out with a 1/2' drill bit to widen for the grommet and fitting. Again use discretion here. To big+ To bad.
Section 6: Final Assembly and Installation
Nice Job!!! Almost home. Hang in there. Clean everything out, make sure there are no drill shavings or sanding dust inside the tube. Do this any way you want just make sure it's clean.
A. Assemble the intake as stated in Section 4:
B. Don't tighten the clamp completely just snug them to make sure everything went as planned. Basically double check all you work.
C. Attach the MAF sensor. Be sure the end you built up fits snuggly into the Pro Flex. Lightly tighten the clamps to keep form going any where.
D. Insert the grommets into the holes you drilled.
E. Now take your nice new intake and mosey on out to your rig.
F. Take the reducer of the 90 deg elbow and secure it to the throttle body.
G. Insert the 90 deg street fitting into the reducer. Straighten the elbow as much as you can for now and secure it by tightening the clamp on the 3" side on the reducer.
H. Loosely install the tube section into the pro flex coupling on the 90 deg elbow.
I. Some adjustment will be needed so keep everything lightly tightened and begin to snug down the clamps starting at the reducer and working your way to the MAF sensor. Do not overtighten the clamps especially on the lipped elbows or you will have excessive crimping in the Pro Flex. Just take your time and do a little bit at a time unit its all secure. You may need to secure to tube with a zip tie or other retaining device unitl the reducer starts to take shape and form to the bend it has to take to get on top of the fan shroud.
J. Insert the grommets, vac line, and IAT hook everything up. Double check, triple check.
K. Voila. Nice job. Now take some pics and show me how nice of a job you did. Here's Mine.
If it works for me, it will work for a 94 
