Cut and Turn or Bracket Lift

[cmhaah06]

I found a good deal on some zimmerman style cut and turned beams. I also found a decent deal on a set of superlift drop brackets. Now I know I am going to need to make some improvements on the superlift brackets, but I'm ok with that.

I would like some input from people using the superlift brackets. Also, I would like to hear from people using zimmerman style cut and turned beams. Opinions and exprience welcomed. I maybe making a deal for one or the other in the next day or two. Plan to use the truck as a DD and a trail rig. Thanks.

 

[KPSquared]

I would say if the beams are well built and will allow the tires you need, I would go that route. The drop brackets make for a lot of leverage on the axle pivot points as compared to the cut/turned beams. If I had the cash, I would have gone that way.

 

[cmhaah06]

The beams are bent for 6". Will there be any issues with this big of a cut and turn?

 

[cmhaah06]

Will I need to get a custom axle for this type of setup. I was reading some of the threads about cut and turned beams. I found a couple of replys saying something about needing a custom outer pass axle. Can anybody clarify?

 

[CopyKat]

The beams are bent for 6". Will there be any issues with this big of a cut and turn?

Yes many problems. Stay far away from those beams.

 

[tweakedlogic]

Will I need to get a custom axle for this type of setup. I was reading some of the threads about cut and turned beams. I found a couple of replys saying something about needing a custom outer pass axle. Can anybody clarify?

From my research, if it is done correctly and re-enforced with plating, there is no reason why those beams will ever give you any trouble.
I am starting my own cut and turn project. I've been researching this for months.
The problem I have with the bracket lifts is a bracket will break.
If you do a cut and turn at the ball joints only, you will not need to extend the axle. you will need to open up the hole the axle goes through.
If the beams have been extended, you can use a D44 passenger axle from the U joint back to add 5" unmodified (axle shaft). that means the front diff will be 2.5" closer to the frame rail and will hit on full stuff of the tire. you can extend them less but you will have to shorten the D44 axle and machine the splines further up shaft.
you can extend the drivers side after the pumpkin. but then you are making two custom axles.
If you do not extend the beams and axles, you will sacrifice some track width. It isn't much, as I understand, but i can't find a hard number. You could get this back with spacers, if you trust spacers while wheel'in.

 

[cmhaah06]

Im still working out the bugs for the suspension setup that I want. I did not want to use brackets but it looks like for my budget they are gonna have to do. I am going to reinforce the brackets where I can. I am saving up for the autofab 44 conversion, this is my ultimate goal for the ttb. I am trying to use parts I know I will want to reuse, such as bronco springs, or resell for a decent return, like James Duff extended arms. The guy I was going to buy the beams from never put them on his truck, sat in his garage for two years. So I think I am going to pass on these.

I think for the time being, a bracket lift will do. I wanted to get some used Skyjacker or Duff brackets, but those are like gold. Whenever I find them they are always gone before I call. Well, when things get rolling (the build), I'll definitely get pic's up and show whats what. Thanks for the help.

 

[4x4junkie]

The problem I have with the bracket lifts is a bracket will break.

Kindof a blanket statement there...
What makes you think the factory brackets (also made of a thinner gauge metal than most aftermarket brackets) won't break?