Cylinder wall has pretty bad ring ridge case | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Cylinder wall has pretty bad ring ridge case

///Manuel

Active Member
Joined
December 12, 2002
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City, State
Denver, CO
Year, Model & Trim Level
92 XLT
I was cleaning up carbon build-up before putting new heads on and ran into an issue. The front left cylinder has a pretty bad case of ring ridge. On about 1/4 around I can feel a pretty bump, I'd say something around 1/32" deep maybe a touch more. It is on the cylinder whose plug rusted up every couple of years.

Can internal coolant leak cause this? Wouldn't it mean that the block is cracked and not just the heads or could a bad head leak coolant into the chamber as well on the 4.0 engine?

My compression number on this cylinder was just as good as the other healthy cylinders.
None of the other cylinders had any ridge that I could notice.
 



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My compression number on this cylinder was just as good as the other healthy cylinders.
None of the other cylinders had any ridge that I could notice.

Sure the ridge you feel is not carbon? surprised the compression was as good as the other cylinders if its wore that much.
 






Sure the ridge you feel is not carbon? surprised the compression was as good as the other cylinders if its wore that much.

Pretty sure, it's while I was cleaning carbon that it felt as if I hadn't done that side but I had...
 






I was cleaning up carbon build-up before putting new heads on and ran into an issue. The front left cylinder has a pretty bad case of ring ridge. On about 1/4 around I can feel a pretty bump, I'd say something around 1/32" deep maybe a touch more. It is on the cylinder whose plug rusted up every couple of years.

Can internal coolant leak cause this? Wouldn't it mean that the block is cracked and not just the heads or could a bad head leak coolant into the chamber as well on the 4.0 engine?

My compression number on this cylinder was just as good as the other healthy cylinders.
None of the other cylinders had any ridge that I could notice.

How much coolant were you using? If the compression was good and you have no intention of doing bearings, honing and installing new rings not sure I would bother with it. Clean it up just so it doesn't bother you with some emery paper, stuff a rag on top of the piston to catch the crap, wipe the spot with some light oil until the rag is clean... good to go.

Very unlikely it is a cracked block. If you think it may be you could have it magnafluxed. Or, you can probably come up with a strong magnet (U shaped) and some iron filings...
 






Thanks for the feedback, here are some photos:

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Seems like your cross hatch is gone, it is there to retain a small amount of oil to lubricate the rings as they slide on the cylinder bore. Once it's gone it will continue to wear worse due to the lack of lube. Again, if you aren't into doing the inserts, honing the cylinders and replacing the rings, put it together an drive it. A ridge reamer tool might be necessary to get that piston out of the cylinder without damaging the pistol ring groove if you were going to give it the full meal deal.
 






Thanks for the tips, I'm afraid that if I try sanding it down I could affect the wall below.
Or is it what you are suggesting to make a cross hatch pattern?
 






The ring doesn't get into that ridge it's where the top ring stops. It has worn the cylinder wall. I would leave it alone and button it back up. Well... if I expected to keep this engine forever, I would rebuild it. Bore it out, install new bearings, pistons, do a total rebuild. Your call. If it didn't use oil before, it should be fine. You said your compression numbers were even, I would think you will be OK for quite a while. Run synthetic if you want, may give you extra lubrication preventing it from progressing. Just an idea.
 






Cool thanks.
Yes, compression number was the same as the other two of the same bank.
I was excepting a drop since I had a rusty plug in that cylinder and was surprised to see compression being as good. (On a side note, I changed that plug in early August and in December it wasn't rusty at all.)

I have been using synthetic for a long time (100k miles). I drive about 5k miles a year and use roughly 1 quart or so per year maybe a bit more.
 






I don't think that one quart per oil change interval is a lot of oil in an old engine. Put it together and drive it is what I think.
 






So it's all back together, I got 110psi dry on the weak cylinder and 130 wet.
All others are 130 dry, didn't bother to do wet on the rest.
So it should be good for a while, no blue smoke.
 












It runs fine except for a slight random miss at idle, I still need to get some new plugs.
Power seems a little low given the increased compression across the board.
 






I think you will be OK. I would do the normal tune up parts and drive it:D
 






Thanks man. It feels pretty good driving it. It's funny the pitch of the engine changed a bit. It used to be deeper and lower, now it's more metallic.
 






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