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How to: D35 C-clip Eliminator, Made Easy

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Yes when I get to a computer ill show the pics of it...

Right now I habe both axels removed and the driveshave removed, is there a trick to getting the front bolts undone to remove the pumpkin, I'm at a stand still till I get thoes off and drop the pumpkin out.
 






...Lefty Loosey...:D

...There shouldn't be a problem getting them off at all...:dunno:
 






Ok I finaly got it off. Yes was going left just not enough force, looked like they used a bottle of locktite on each one lol.

Now the main reason I took it off is, it was thicker than a mike shake in there.globs of mud.
How is the best way to clean it.I got as much out as I could by hand. Will like beak cleaner be ok to use or will that ruien it or something? Now to eliminate the c clip.
 






...I use CRC brake cleaner and clean rags to mop the sludge, to clean the pumpkin..;)

...I am actually busting open another pumpkin as we speak...:hammer:
 






Ok I finaly got it off. Yes was going left just not enough force, looked like they used a bottle of locktite on each one lol.

Now the main reason I took it off is, it was thicker than a mike shake in there.globs of mud.
How is the best way to clean it.I got as much out as I could by hand. Will like beak cleaner be ok to use or will that ruien it or something? Now to eliminate the c clip.
 






bookmarked, i am gonna do this on my Ranger too, it needs both u joints on the passenger axle,,
but i am gonna take down the whole ttb, it's getting cold here, and i can do it on the warm basement floor,,than put it all back on, in 1 piece,
 






Ok got this all finished up, took me 3 day. But took my time and cleaned everything. And never got this involved in tearing it down. And no leaks so its good to go. Now for shocks. I callapsed the one I took off. And it never went up. Not good. So to the shock section I go. And become elite later when I get to a computer and not my phone. Thanks again tbars, it was a lot of help. Relizing I can do more than I thought.
 












No I didn't do the c clip eliminater. I called around for the spring and no place had it, it was at least 7 days out, and I had to get my pumpkin cleaned out and put on before the weather turned worse... but I am going to get the stuff for it next year I'm planning and doing gears and a locker.
 












...I found this 1 3/8 inch 2 piece collar and it was a perfect fit...
C_clip_eliminator_005.jpg

What's the outer diameter and width on the collar you used?
 






...Roughly, I would say it is 5/8" wide with a 2-1/2" o.d....:scratch:..I can buy another one later this week if you need exact measurements...
 






No need to buy another one. McMaster shows 3 different OD's and widths from 9/16" to 3/4". Didn't want to get one too big to fit that groove, I'll order one of the narrower ones before I start tearing into it.
 






...I need to buy another one for my ther truck, my X...I suggest you first look at the groove it is going to sit in...I have noticed they are a little different on the shafts...That was my main concern when finding this...

...I believe the Mcmasters sizes are relative to the material they are made of and, the width is also a variable on their height, and vise versa, even though the bore is 1-3/8"...
 






Ted,

Does this split-collar sit in the groove for the slip joint boot, or is it beyond (the other side of) the groove?
 






your part suppliers have the nesscessary parts in stock? especially that Spring?
 






...It fits right in the groove thus, making the boot compress and fit tight right against it....The collar now also works as a dust/rock sheild too...This also ensures the collar will not walk...:D

...If you look at the last few pics on the first post, you can see the fit of both the collar and the boot...

...Cyber, I can meet you at the normal spot tomorrow and where I get the collars is 1/2 a mile away...;)
 






See what i can do here :)
 



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Okay- I like the idea of the collar for added security, but if the boot is reaching the collar, is the spring even getting to the collar? It seems the spring would need to be on the taper, then the boot end on the initial flat spot, then the collar in the notch. If that's the case, it seems that the boot itself would be doing most of the spring retention and on that point, wouldn't the spring be able to rub through the boot?

By all means, I'm not attempting to disrespect the efforts put forth here- I'm in the process of rebuilding my D35 right now with 760s, full circle clips, and C-clip elimination... but this is my first time seeing the collar and I'm simply concerned that it's not going to do much, as it would seem the boot itself (once clamped) would be what keeps the spring in place.

Does that make sense to those of you who have done this? Does the spring sit fully inside the boot so when you clamp the boot on the outer end, the spring is NOT between the boot and the shaft?

I just want to make sure I'm following properly before I dive off buying more crap. Again.
 






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