D35 C-clip Eliminator

[CBII]

Just thought I'd share my D35 c-clip eliminator with you guys. If you've ever broken an inner stub shaft on the passenger side this could save you a **** load of work. I just finished installing front Auburn ECTED locker into my Bronco II's D35 and figure way not save the hassle and just get rid of the c-clip now. I researched a lot and talked to a lot of people which helped me out a ton. But I'll save you or anyone else thinking about this the time and effort by posting what I did and how I did it. If you have questions just ask and I'll help you out as best I can.

Ok the basic idea here is to replace the c-clip that holds the inner stub axle shaft from falling out of the front pumpkin. If you ever have to do this job it means an almost full tear down of your front axle just to get the pumpkin out. Take it from me it ain't that fun in a shop let alone on a muddy trail somewhere in bumfawk nowhere.

So after much consultation and measuring and re-measuring I ordered custom coil springs from a local spring shop. They gave me 3 of them but I only needed one. The Garage tests worked great and my bro (who's pushing 300lbs had to put a lot of effort to hold the axle shaft in place while I made sure everything was buttoned up and in place).

Here's my report from the weekend of wheeling.

I removed the sway bar so that I could maximize my flex in the front.

So that now leads to the c-clip eliminator. With the sway bar off and allowing the TTB to fully flex with the extended radius arms I figure that that would really test the set. All I have to say is WOW...I had crazy flex like never before and not once did the inner stub shaft coming out of the pumpkin become an issue. I'm very pleased with the set up...a little more testing and I'd pretty much call it a great mod for locked or stock front ends.

 

[atistang]

interesting

 

[cmhaah06]

just bought my first x back in feb. still trying to figure out what everything everybody on here means when they're talking about stuff...where exactly is that spring located and how hard would this job be....where did u get that spring from...thanks in advance

 

[CBII]

just bought my first x back in feb. still trying to figure out what everything everybody on here means when they're talking about stuff...where exactly is that spring located and how hard would this job be....where did u get that spring from...thanks in advance

That spring is located on the passanger side axle shaft. If you crawl under your rig and look at the axle from the back side you should see a small black rubber boot. Inside that boot is where the inner axle stub shaft mates up with the outter axle shaft (the longer one). The point of the spring is so that you can remove the c-clip inside the pumpkin and the tension on the spring will hold the inner stub shaft into the pumpkin so that it doesn't fall out.

Why would you want to do this? Because is you ever have to replace the u-joint in that inner stub shaft or you're breaking them on the trails you have to more or less tear apart most of you front axle just to get that stupid shaft out.

No this is not an easy job. Like a mentioned before you have to take it all apart and then put it all back together.

I bought the spring form a local spring shop...it's custom made.

 

[atistang]

I bought the spring form a local spring shop...it's custom made.

so whats the tension and spring rate on the spring?

 

[Albino 94LTD]

Subscribing for spring details

 

[CBII]

I can't find the dang sheet with all the specs on it. I'll dig it up and let you all know.

Here's what I can remember.

Free length of 4"
9 coils in total
ID of 1.5"
Wire diameter 1/8"
At full compression it's putting out just over 30lb/inch.

I think that's most of the important info.

It wasn't cheap to get them made either. Cost me over $65 Canadian for 3. Would have cost the same if I bought just 1 so I took them.

I'm thinking about selling this as a kit, as I have extra set collars as well.

 

[Albino 94LTD]

I'm thinking about selling this as a kit, as I have extra set collars as well.

I'll take 1 kit please. PM me your info and I'll paypal ya if that works

 

[CBII]

I'll take 1 kit please. PM me your info and I'll paypal ya if that works

LOL...I haven't even set a price point yet.

Give me a few days to crunch some numbers and find out what shipping will be.

Also I want to do a few more tests before selling them, plus I have to do a "complete" and through inspection of my current set up.

I want to make sure it's 100% before selling them to others.

That being said I'll give you first dibs on a kit.

 

[Anime]

I can't tell how this setup works from the images you have up.

Does the spring/set collar go inside the pumpkin? If not, a spring on the stub shaft outside the pumpkin would surely push the shaft away from the pumpkin instead of towards it, no?

I would have thought a usual, round wire C-clip like the kind on CV axles in front wheel drive cars and other independent suspensions (that come out of the differential with a pry bar or at worst, a slide hammer) would make more sense than a clip you have to remove from from inside.

 

[HahnsB2]

I can't tell how this setup works from the images you have up.

Does the spring/set collar go inside the pumpkin? If not, a spring on the stub shaft outside the pumpkin would surely push the shaft away from the pumpkin instead of towards it, no?

I would have thought a usual, round wire C-clip like the kind on CV axles in front wheel drive cars and other independent suspensions (that come out of the differential with a pry bar or at worst, a slide hammer) would make more sense than a clip you have to remove from from inside.

No, it goes on the stub shaft at the slip joint for the passenger side. It pushes both shafts away from eachother, one into the hub, the other into the pumpkin. To remove the factory e clip is several hours of work to remove the pig from the beam, this setup it pulls right out.
Here's a picture of mine that might give a better idea where it is.

 

[FireZapper]

The collar comes from tractor supply. Just measure the shaft diam. and get the closest one.

The spring is off a craftsman garden tractor. It's the seat spring. GO to the store and flip up a seat. Check the spring diam compared to the shaft. Ask for the parts phone number and order the spring for that tractor. I'm lucky that I have a huge you pull it local and they have garden tractors.


I first thought about 2 collars but only 1 fits where the axle shaft meets the passenger side beam.

It works by putting tension on the spring while you install the spindle. Set the collar against the spring so the spindle doesn't meet the spindle studs. Then push the spindle on the studs. You should JUST be able to start the nuts. If you have an easy or SUPER hard time then adjust the collar accordingly.

 

[CBII]

This is what the c-clip looks like.

In order to remove that clip you have to remove the pumpkin and then the inner axle shaft will come out. So no it's not like front wheel drive cars. That's the point of this whole set up. To make removing the axle shafts easy and pain free.

I think the other posted pretty good pics to supplement mine.

 

[Anime]

The new pictures make it alot more obvious whats going on, thanks.

Seems like a pretty good idea, I was thinking maybe the spring would put too much pressure towards either end, but it looks like the collar lets you adjust it for just the right amount of tension.

I suspect you guys use replacement rubber CV boots with the split in them and zip ties to cover the spring area of the axle back up so it doesn't get cruddy on the trail?

 

[Scott B.]

I put a used valve spring from a Chevy 350 into the yoke side to push against the axle. Nothing too fancy.

I did shorten the spring a little bit.

 

[Kona]

How do you do the drivers side? Or do you just take the clip out and all is good?

 

[Maniak]

As I understand it, no clip on the drivers side..

It stays in becuase the diff and the spindle are always at the same distance since they are on the same "beam". The passenger side the spindle is on a different "beam" than the diff so it needs a slip joint to allow for the change in distances and it needs some way to keep the axle in the diff (factory uses a c-clip)

~Mark

 

[DeRocha]

Correct.. there is no "C" clip on the driver's side..

How do you do the drivers side? Or do you just take the clip out and all is good?

As I understand it, no clip on the drivers side..

It stays in becuase the diff and the spindle are always at the same distance since they are on the same "beam". The passenger side the spindle is on a different "beam" than the diff so it needs a slip joint to allow for the change in distances and it needs some way to keep the axle in the diff (factory uses a c-clip)

~Mark

 

[CBII]

I suspect you guys use replacement rubber CV boots with the split in them and zip ties to cover the spring area of the axle back up so it doesn't get cruddy on the trail?

Glad to help...

I used a shock boot to cover mine up.

 

[mr_roboteye]

success

I just performed this mod to my 92' ranger based on the info in this thread. I turned my axle shaft down in a lathe to accept a 1 1/4" stainless split collar. I used a spring that I found at a local auto parts store. It was a little bit too small of an ID to fit over the spline, so I used two pairs of vice grips and took about 20 minutes to expand the diameter of every coil one at a time. I installed all of it on Sunday. The last picture is of a D35 cross vs. a D28 cross from my old truck. (87 ranger). Since these pictures were taken, I have tack welded the u-joint caps to prevent them from spinning. I will modify my yokes in the future to accept full circlips.