D44 swaying issue | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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D44 swaying issue

David89

Active Member
Joined
September 30, 2008
Messages
79
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1
City, State
Libertyville, IL
Year, Model & Trim Level
1999 XLT
I have about 11 to 12 inches of lift on my X and running 39.5x15 bias tires. I just got crossover steering on it with a Heim to the pitman arm and a 1 ton tie rod to the highsteer arm. I have a trac bar, shocks, and a steering stab. The steering is better then what I had before, but still not what I want it to be. I haven't got in aligned yet either. I want this swaying of the axle to stop and the truck to drive straight on the road!!!. Should I lower it a few inches, or new steering box(its a first gen steering box), new tie rods, get it aligned?. Please help me out.
 



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Currently at work, I will have pictures up in a bit
 






I have about 11 to 12 inches of lift on my X and running 39.5x15 bias tires.
This combination isnt exactly "road friendly" so whatever you do to it, I think you'll still have "sway" just because of the height and the nature (sidewall construction) of bias-ply tires. So if this is your daily driver, maybe look into getting a cheap car for the weekdays and keeping the Explorer for the weekends.
 






This is just my toy, I have another car. I still like to drive it on the streets some what.
 






What front suspension setup? Leaves? Coils/radius arms? Linked/coilovers? Your alignment could be a big part of it, but as the IZ pointed out tall trucks on bias fordees can be a PITA on the street. Doing anything else without knowing what your toe and caster is would be a shot in the dark.

Get it up on the alignment rack and see if that helps. If it doesnt, we can go from there. Ive driven big trucks that (ignoring tires) were fairly nice on the street. Alot of it is spring rate, shock valving, and sway bars.
 






Heres my Setup. I just threw everything together because I had to move it out of the driveway and I'm waiting on a full spool.
DSCN0746.jpg


DSCN0745.jpg


DSCN0747.jpg


DSCN0748.jpg
 






Your panhard bar is on the opposite side. Remove it.
 






Why did you choose for the panhard to be opposite of the steering?
 






The man that helped with the welding on my truck did the panhard like that. Not sure why he did, but I didn't question since he has a Chevy on rockwells that he bulit. Whats the problem with that?
 






Your panhard is on the wrong side. When the front end goes up, the axle shifts to your driver's side and the tires start to go towards the passenger side.

Have you tried running it without that backwards panhard?
 






Yeah I did with my old steering(it drove alot better without it), havent got a chance to run it without the backassward panhard and new steering yet. Thanks I will give that a chance tonight.
 






Report back. :cool:
 






Holy crap get that panhard off of there before it kills a busload of nuns. :eek:

The tracbar (panhard) has to run from the same side as the draglink. Having it run from the opposite side has your front end set up like a pair of scissors. When you hit a dip on the street, the panhard pulls the front axle passenger as the steering pulls driver... i bet the bumpsteer is... "holy ****" for lack of a better term. The fact that you can even keep it on the street says you're a pretty good driver.


The tracbar needs to mimic the draglink. Same angle, and both need to be pretty close to the same length. Please please pretty please dont drive this thing on the street anymore until this issue is resolved.
 






Get some pics of the whole machine too. :cool:
 






Well I took the trac bar off and went for a drive to get some ice cream. It doesn't yank/pull anymore when I hit a pothole. Overall, it drives smoother and straight for once. I still have some swaying motion, so I'm thinking I might just lower it 2 inch, new tie rods and relocate the panhard. Has anyone done custom sway links for their SAS explorer?
 






Get some pics of the whole machine too. :cool:
Here are some old pictureshttp://i861.photobucket.com/albums/ab172/Davebot123/DSCN0462.jpg
http://i861.photobucket.com/albums/ab172/Davebot123/Truck/DSCN0463.jpg
http://i861.photobucket.com/albums/ab172/Davebot123/Truck/DSCN0436.jpg
Here is a short video of playing in some icey mud. At the time I had two different gear ratios. Now I have 5.13s yukons, I just gotta find time to install the front.
http://s861.photobucket.com/albums/ab172/Davebot123/?action=view&current=DSCN0702.flv
 






Youre majority of the problems are this.
1. You need to report youre castor angle
2. Trac bar is as backwards as possiable.
3. you have no sway bar. Yes its possiable to run one. I have one on mine. it stopped the side to side swaying. I used stock bar in stock location with JKS jeep cherokee end links. Its like clock work when its together.
4. the shock on pass side was not hooked up. Maybe you just took it off to try it.

Long story short if you put a sway bar on it it will kelp 2000% bud. ppl on here say they drive them without a sway bar but i couldnt drive mine without.
 









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Youre majority of the problems are this.
1. You need to report youre castor angle
2. Trac bar is as backwards as possiable.
3. you have no sway bar. Yes its possiable to run one. I have one on mine. it stopped the side to side swaying. I used stock bar in stock location with JKS jeep cherokee end links. Its like clock work when its together.
4. the shock on pass side was not hooked up. Maybe you just took it off to try it.

Long story short if you put a sway bar on it it will kelp 2000% bud. ppl on here say they drive them without a sway bar but i couldnt drive mine without.

Awesome, thanks for the feed back. I'm gonna order some mounts tonight
 






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