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Daemon's SAS

Daemon's SAS *updated 17 July*

-'79 Bronco 1/2 ton HP Dana 44
-narrowed 5 3/8" on the pass side
-moser alloy shaft on the passenger side, and stock shafts on the driver side. :)
-CTM u-joints
-5.13 gears and No-Spin Detroit
-WH 5.5 coils
-1.5 x .25 wall DOM steering links using tube inserts, and 3/4" heim joints
-superlift adjustable track bar
-stock bronco radius arms with 7 degree bushings
-cut down bronco coil towers and F-250 shock towers
-RS 9012X shocks.

-'79 Ford 9"
-disk brakes
-Dutchman alloy axles
-5.13 gears and Detroit
-2" OME leafs SOA
-RS9000 shocks

Tires and wheels:
-15x8 rockcrawlers wih 2.5" BS
-37x12.5 Super Swamper SSR radials*



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Daemon I am working on my RC Dana 44 right now. I have a few questions. Why did you only cut 5 3/8 off of the passenger side (not 6 like everyone else?)?

Second, could you take some close ups of your steering? I am considering going with heims like your or just a plain old BC Broncos High Steer kit. Did you drill out the knuckles or put any sleaves in?

Third, What trackbar did you use? Any close ups?
Please let me know. Nice, Clean setup dude!

I had a question as well about your coil buckets...I have a set in my garage and noticed after you cut down the top portion to be used, it is around 15 degrees forward of the bottom portion that is cut off. (Which probably explains the bowing coil syndrome on some of the SAS's on here) So my question is, are you running it as is or did you do something to correct the angle?

Kirby N- I got the 5 3/8" from somebody on the board, forgot who and it just stuck in my head.

I'll take some close up pics of the steering tomorrow. I used 3/4" heims, weld on tube inserts, spacers and grade 8 bolts. Yes, I had to drill the knuckles and pitman arm. Drilling the knuckles was easy. If you can take the pitman arm off and use a drill press, it will make the job a lot easier.

For the trackbar, I used superlift's adjustable for the early bronco.

DB 1 - I went a little below the top two holes. THat meant I used the flat part of the bucket flushed on to the frame.


Then I added some supports...


Great work on the build up, the welds look top notch:thumbsup:

I never would have thought of what you did on the coil bucket and the track bar mount. My only concern with the track bar mount coming off the frame like that is that it would just snap of with all the leverage placed on it but it looks like is should be pretty stout with the reinforcing you did. So how is everything holding up so far?

I take it there were no fitment issues with the axleshaft and so fourth by cutting the axle down to 5 3/8" instead of 6" huh?

Anyways, thanks for the great info!

Thanks a lot guys!

Kirby N - Here's a couple close up pics of my steering. I added some spacers on the drag link heims to prevent binding on the knuckle and pitman arm.



Very Nice Daemon. Thanks for the pics. The only concern I have is that those Heims are stinking expensive! Then with the prices of steel lately, you must have a fortune in that set up. That is really what I want to do, but I am way over budget already. Did you happen find a cheap source for heims? Also, did you do the welding on those?

Thanks man! Love your truck!

Thanks man! The heims were $29.50 each at poisonspyder, $12.25 for the inserts, and the tube was $6.00 a foot for 1.5 x .25 wall DOM. Yes I did the welding also.

OK, OK you talked me into it. I just went down to Rock Ware and spent the $$$. It adds up after you get all the joints and all the tubing. I will have it set up pretty soon. He tried to talk me into building a Track bar out of the stuff too!!

Oh, where did you get the spacers? Thanks for your help!

I got them from Poisonspyder.

I will give them a call. Thanks again.

I am almost there, but I still have some more questions. Maybe you can help me. I bought some coil buckest like yours, but I want to leave them full height. The reason is because I don't want as much lift (I am only planning on running 35s). I also got some 5.5 WH coils. Is there a reason, other than height, that you chopped the towers? Also, did you have any problems with driveshaft length or did it bolt right up? I have heard mixed things. Most scenerios seam like the axle needs to be 2" farther forward thatn stock. How do you feel?

I am going to try to use a stock TJ rear trackbar for the sake of budget. Also, I might use heims and DOM tubing if I can scrape together some $$$.


Do you have any pics of your radius arm mounts/ crossmember? I am trying to get an idea for mounting position so I can mock it all up easy.

Kirby N.- The only reason was for the height. Mounting the buckets the way it is right now won't give you much lift. Right now with 8"(5.5 WH coils) of lift I still have issues with clearance in between the engine x-member and the d44 pumpkin. The minimum lift you can have is 6" (using 3.5 WH coils) or you will be doing a lot of cutting and trimming.

My axle is 1 1/2" forward. The driveshaft will be too long if the axle is left in the stock (D35) location. I also replaced the D44 pinion yoke with a 1310 to match the driveshaft yoke.

Here's a picture of my x-member and radius arm mount. I had to cut the passenger x-member and weld it on with the RA mount. This is a 'ghetto fab' but it will hold very well. I am planning on getting a different x-member and extend the radius arm with a tube, like Dannyboy's set-up.


That looks like no ghetto there! I wish I knew where my stock X member was and I would do the same. It got chucked a long time ago when the duff extended arms went on. Glad to hear the only reason was height. I am planning on doing alot of hacking. I was afraid the reason was because of the dent in the frame on the drivers side. Did you just weld a flat plate behind your drivers bucket? I saw the Angle iron, was that done because of that dent? Thanks for the pic. I think I can guess pretty close where you mounted your radius arm mounts now.

I was worried about my yoke, but it is the same as the driveshaft (1310). My axle is out of a 76 F150. I might start yanking everything next saturday!

Favor- Could you possibly measure from center of Tcase skid front bolt to center of R/A mount back bolt on the passenger and driver side? This would save me some headache if you have a few minutes! Thanks for everything!


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I had my bucket flushed where the curve part of the frame is. The agle iron is for support, I have them on both sides.

For the radius arm bracket, the bracket (rear hole) is bolted on the same hole as the x-members. I used that as a point and drilled the rest of the holes on the frame.