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Dakota OEM Source for long travel axles?


waren

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I am interested in a snow / street friendly mid-long travel setup for my 2nd gen. The biggest concerns I have with the current kits out there is that they are setup with uniballs and heim joints for strength and articulation which is great in the desert but would probably last less than 3 months of a typical winter. It’s pretty simple to run regular tie rods ... I’m reasonably confident I can design A-arms and get them fab’d. However short of fully custom $$$ RCVs I’m having a hard time finding anyone in Canada to make Axles.

Also custom axles are still wear parts and I would prefer to have access to cheap parts from Napa or rock auto.

So I noticed that 1997-2000 Dakotas and Durango’s also came with an IFS Dana 35 and that they have a track with that is 3.3” wider than a ranger. However, I can’t find any information specifically on how long the axles are or any details on inboard stubs or outboard splines and dust seals.

Or is there another possible donor? 1998 f150? chev ifs?

Even if you had to swap stubs and find a reasonable length that would not require “custom” fabrication for the axle that could save a lot of up front cost on a kit ... as well as replacement axle costs.
 


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CDW6212R

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That might be a doable idea. But expand the choices. I'd try to find a business which can rebuild CV axles. If you can find one that will work with you, then it may be possible to find the right components to make axles at the length you want. I'd like to find stronger axles, but not really longer than stock. That for a bolt on part is very expensive, I believe there is the one choice.
 




waren

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Strangely although we have 2 or 3 really good driveshaft, drivetrain shops in the area none build custom CV shafts.

these guys (not local to me at all) will build custom axles for street cars. I asked them if they could build standard length axles with greater articulation ... or custom length axles ... unfortunately they gave me this response


Hello,
We don't really offer anything specific to your setup at the moment.
You might be able to reach out to 4WD Parts as they might have a better suggestion for something to work for what you're trying to accomplish.


Thank You,
Tad
The Driveshaftshop
4530 Southmark Dr
Salisbury, NC 28147
 




CDW6212R

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Yeah that's typical I'd bet. It's funny that an IRS Mustang has a few CV axle choices, obviously some companies do make special CV axles. But for so many cars having them, few have any support from the aftermarket.
 




waren

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I received this response from true travel to my request for a street kit with ball joints and bushings. Which Is pretty much what I expected them to say. I would like to run their kit but i know it won’t last and obviously I represent a very small “market” looking to design a street friendly kit for a vehicle that’s been out of production for a decade. (9 years for Ranger and 19 for explorer)

Hello,

I'm sorry but all your requests would mean a complete redesign of the kit. In regards to the axles, yes we manufacturer those and you can always get replacements.

You can always pick up some Tri-Flow Lubricant to spray on the uniballs and heims to help protect their liners.

We have our +2" kit on a 99 Mountaineer 5.0 AWD, and they've lasted quite a long time.

Let me know what you decide.


1602886367737.png
Adem Martin del Campo
True Travel Dynamics
http://truetraveldynamics.com
702-941-0660
 




waren

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Courtesy or RA the Dakota axles have an inboard flange rather than a stub on the explorer. And the outboard stub and spline count is different. The flange is the more common configuration, I thought maybe it was a D35 IFS thing and the Dakota axles would be similar ...

F8BDBDE9-897F-40E5-98EE-A42C5E4D5F43.png


81DD7BF3-9C8D-4DF8-8A8E-BA0DE42B5C30.jpeg


3543B6A1-CC14-41E5-B26E-A39B7C412BC3.jpeg


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CC835B3B-9DBF-4E35-8858-4112815D28B5.jpeg


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waren

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Plan B is to find “axles” of a good length and then swap the stock inner and outer joints on.

I like how Factory Five takes this approach with the 818 kit rather than selling complete axles.


Anyone know of a resource to find stock center axle lengths? (The shaft between the joints)
 




waren

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The driveshaftshop manufactures axles in 1/4” increments, and is interested in helping me out if I can provide the details.

I should have some spare axles to tear down in the near future so I maybe able to figure out some potential donors once I know the spline count of the axles and the type of cv joints used.

I see conflicting information that Porsche/VW 930 axles have (or don’t have) additional articulation. If they do have additional articulation using 930 axles may offer more usable wheel travel assuming upper and lower ball joints can keep up.
 




CDW6212R

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Good work on the research, it takes a lot of time and persistence to dig up details like that.

I don't need longer axles, but I appreciate that many do, plus the longer travel and lift etc. I'd like to find stronger axles, more able to take more horsepower, so stronger CV joints are what I see as the weak link there. The front driveshaft is small compared to rear parts, I worry about that more, and the CV joint at the rear of it.

So I'm hoping any interest in better parts among all of those, will turn up things that I or others can use too. Keep digging, and thanks.
 




410Fortune

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so for many years in So Cal desert racing people have been sleeving and extending their own cv axles for many many years.....
This is a cheap option, cut the shaft, extend the length plug weld and full weld the extension sleeve..... can be plenty strong and cheap. Just something to think about
The RCV's from Truetravel are AWESOME!! maybe worth the $$$$ to just buy those
This is not a cheap hobby or thing to do, long travel IFS and 4wd has always meant $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
 




waren

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I did turn up the sleeve option while digging around in the desert forums. I am always amazed and humbled by the fabrication skills of others ... far beyond my own. I hoping I can make up for my lack of fabrication skill with catalog and junk yard research.

the shafts should have circlips that engage on the inboard and outboard CV joints. The trick will be sourcing longer OEM axles with the same diameter and spline count.

as far as upgrading to 300M or 930 CVs I am not holding much hope that the inner and outer stubs will mate up to either. 930s are available in a few flange diameters.

First task is to get a 2nd gen back on the road in all it’s glory with 6.7” of ground clearance!

And that is really what all this is about. A modern Subaru Outback wagon for comparison has 8.7” of ground clearance, the new 2 dr bronco with 35s has 11.6”.


the first 1” increase on the explorer is easy slap on 32” tires ... 7.7” from there it gets harder. Spring over axle in the rear and additional wheel travel in the front are logical next steps but then you hit the CV angle issue and that’s where the $$$ hemorrhage begins. But does it have to be this way? While I can appreciate the quality of RCV axles my build and intended use certainly couldn’t justify the strength or cost.
 




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