Dana 35/44 Hybrid

All the difficult decisions...
I think I would rather go with a solid Dana 44...yes I have seen the multiple options...Currie even offers a shortened Dana 44 IFS which I see no benefit in. It would be nice to do the Zimmerman mod to my 35, but I don't have the money and I feel I could get the solid Dana 44 in for the same money.

Okay, here's my real question...Has anyone put Dana 44 outers on their Dana 35?

I was reading on the Ranger board that it is possible to put the Dana 44 outers on our Dana 35 setup. I don't know how far back you go, but I know that you use the Dana 44 spindle (which is the same length?), the Dana 44 calipers and the Dana 44 rotors. I really need these bigger brakes, but I wonder what else I would have to buy besides new rims. Would I need new hubs as well? I don't think there is any enhanced strength except for the braking performance. Let me know what you all know.

 

[CoryL]

New steering knuckles, spindles, rotors, calipers, hubs, and stub shafts needed.

Main benefits are the larger rotor, better wheel bearing design and better hub.

 

[Sandy]

Why Bother !
If you are going to get the part necessary to convert a D35 to D44 outers then get the diff case too and make it a D44.

Or better yet, get a D44 and put D60 outers on it.

The D44 Solid axle swap in reality is not an easy swap and the height required to off-road with the solid axle is sometimes too great for most people.

The D44 independent setup is a good choice if you don't want your vehicle in the sky somewhere and you get the strength of the D44 and heavier axles/hubs.

The independent setup may or may not be the best setup for off-road use but when making a choice between strength, dependability, ease of install, lift requirement and the possibility of not off-roading, this may not be a bad choice for a lot of people.

Think about it !

 

[CoryL]

Putting D60 outters on a D44 is not as simple as putting D4 outters on a D35.

It would require removing the inner knuckle and welding on the D60 one along with some machine work to mate teh D60 stub with teh D44 inner.

 

[Sandy]

I realize that!
That is my point!

 

[Hotweels]

Just for clairity are we talking about a D44 TTB or solid? I wonder if the D44 TTB from a F150 would bolt up i know the springs are different but i have never heard of breakage with 33"s on F150's

 

[texplorer1994]

Hotwheels...I was talking about both...it is a tough decision...do I put on the D 44 outers and weld my TTBs like Zimmerman's or do I saw screw it and go with the Solid D 44.

Sandy and Hotwheels...
In reagrds to the D44...I saw an article in Four Wheeler or something on the D35 to an IFS D44...it is not bolt up. The setup has to be shortened. Ahh, our friends at Currie have done this. Currie makes some amazing and amazingly expensive products.

Sandy...would the D44 diff bolt to the TTB/diff of my current D35? If not, are you saying put in the longer D44 IFS and reweld spring mounts?

 

[Sandy]

texplorer1994,

Anything can be done but the TTB D44 housing is not a bolt on setup for the TTB D35.
The more I think about it there may be a way, completely custom.
Make a plate centering the TTB D44 diff housing in the position of the TTB D35 housing. Cut the beam to fit the D44 diff housing, make custom gaskets, make custom axles and bam you have a D35/D44 TTB setup. I am not sure how the TTB will hold up but it looks to me like it could be done.

Would I do it NO!, would I try to modify a set of D44 TTB setup to fit an X, probably, at least before I tried to modify the D35 TTB.

Again, the only thing wrong with a solid axle D44 setup in an X is the height you need to clear everything.

Now think about this, install the solid axle, then cut out the cross member under the engine and replace it with a new shallower unit made out of 1x4 box tubing, 0.250 inch wall. This would give you the extra clearance to lower the vehicle a little and make it more stable and less offensive to the law.

I'm rambling again but,
Good Luck,