dana 35 limited slip, or locker?? | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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dana 35 limited slip, or locker??

explorerman3

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City, State
gurnee, illinois
Year, Model & Trim Level
1991 ford explorer eddie
Hey guys, im thinking of trying to take my explorer to the next level (without going any bigger just yet) and was wondering what everyones opinions were on what type of carrier to go with. My front diff is currently open and my rear has a detroit ez locker, and i absolutely love it. Would putting a locker in the front be total suicide with my 38.5" boggers on my dana 35 (which has held up surprisingly well for the past few years) or would i be better off with an lsd, which seems to be a little less harsh on driveline components. The two products im looking at are the detroit locker, and the dana trac-loc. Its time to go through the front end and replace the pinion bearings and needs all new u-joints, so im taking it apart either way. any input is always appreciated.
 



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here are some more pics
 

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I'd go with the LSD. A little easier on parts and you can still turn.

I had the True-Trac in the front of both of mine and loved it. I never broke anything in the D35 with it on 35s, but did break outer shafts of the D44 on 35s.
 






I'd use a LS up front. After watching people (like Tbars4) try to turn with a auto locking locker up front I knew I was going to use LSD or air locker..

I got a Trac Lok (from a jeep d-35) from RangerX and I can tell its up there. I can still turn (not as well as I used to) but I don't need to do 30 point turns :).

Another reason for LSD is your tire size. The locker (even an air locker) will really put some stress on the front end. The LS will have "some" give which may help save driveline parts.

~Mark
 






Another vote for the L/S! I run one in mine with 35's and it works great. Never broke a thing either! Granted, it's not a locker... but in all honesty, with a locker in the rear it's essentially a three wheel drive when stuck. A L/S just gets you that little bit more without being hard on components. Unless you're driving a trailer pig, go with the L/S, you won't regret it.
 
























From what I have "read", it never actually locks. Its just becomes a very very very stiff LS and wears out like a normal LS (with clutches) already does.

~Mark

Might be just enough to keep it from breaking shafts though.

The pics you (the OP) show, a L/S should work well there. As long as there's at least SOME amount of traction maintained under both tires (not having one actually hanging in the air), a good L/S diff will do a lot of good for you.
 






Alright, thanks guys for all the responses. I was leaning toward an LSD anyway, looks like that will be the choice I go with. It's cheaper anyway.
 






Having had both, I'm another vote for L/S.
BUT, you mentioned Trac lok in your first post. I suggest the Detroit Tru trac.
GEAR driven L/S, so it won't wear out like all others, plus, it's tighter.
 












I don't think it's true...4WP is who I ordered one from, along with gears and tires, way back when, and they were ordering it for my front axle! I ended up getting the traclok instead, only because they couldn't get the trutrac in time for the big run I was going to.
I would talk to Detroit directly. 4WP has been known to be clueless sometimes. ;)
 






There is some truth to that. The True-Trac was not designed to be fully bi-directional and does not function as efficiently in a front axle as it does a rear axle.

A workaround is to disassemble the unit and flip it's internal helical gears around so they are installed in the opposite direction (I recall a past thread on this). IIRC, it does void the warranty on the unit.

For some reason I can't seem to find the thread on it though... :scratch:

Edit:
Here's a link to what's needed for it.
Flipping Truetrac Gears
 






So what do you guys think? Will the truetrac work, will it not work? I read about a guy on therangerstation that he was running one up front unmodified for years and it worked flawlessly, but then other guys saying the gears have to be switched around. Ugh, so much info, I never know who to listen to.
 












I have a True Trac model # 912A569 that's application is for the ford dana 35 front differential. It is in the front of my 1993 explorer and I am very happy with it. I am running BFG 33 x 12.50 KM2's and a GM TH700r4 automatic and by applying the brake when a wheel is in the air it will lock up and pull me out of a stuck situation. for me this is the best of a LSD and a locker in the front.
This diff. is not recommended for your 38.5" tires though.
 






I got a vote for an ARB. I ran a LSD and hated the return to centre with the hubs locked on the street. Running a Detroit in the front now, but thinking it will be destroyed if I break an axle shaft. The Detroit steers and handle as if open on the street with the hubs locked. Off road, the Detroit sometimes makes steering difficult. I honestly prefer the Detroit for on road driving though.
 






i vote aussie;)i run one up front and love it,except on tight trails.i normally leave one hub unlocked till i think i need it.also running just one locked means you only break one side,i run the driverside so you can just pull the axle right out.from the pics he has no tight trails and is in some nasty slop!!i would want all 4 tires spinning in that stuff.also have you ever been on a trail and JUST you passenger side tires fall into a rut/ditch?what happens to the driver side tires?nothing,they stop spinning even with a LS.the two tires down in the rut spin like crazy and two on harder surface barley spins or doesnt at all
not with an aussie;)
 



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I love my rear locker. I'm ready for something more up front. When I check the application for any of the mentioned options it says NOT COMPITABLE with my 2001 explorer except for the powertrax no slip or lock-right. Do i just assume that it the carrier is listed for a dana 35 with 27 spline axles that it'll work?
 






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