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Dana 44 Knuckles on Dana 35 TTB


410Fortune

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My bad! I thought I saw one of these where they re installed the D35 style UBJ and kept the pinch bolt
 


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VAUGHN4wd

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No problems, haven’t tried that but would be cool to see if that worked
 




buford1972

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It is my understanding and has been verified by measuring the adjustment cams for a d-44 and a d-35 that the d-44 cam is not as large in diameter than an adjustment cam for a d-35. How are all these people able to get a d-44 ball joint and d-44 adjustment cam to tighten properly in a d-35 beam? Does anyone have a list of parts used that they would share?

I have also looked into the swap using a 96 d-35 ranger knuckle (with sliding and bolt on caliper) and bolting on a 96 d-44 bronco 5-bolt spindle (which does in fact bolt up) and sliding on a d-44 rotor. The problem with this swap is that the rotor hits the caliper bracket. Any ideas on either????
 




stephen93Eddie

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It is my understanding and has been verified by measuring the adjustment cams for a d-44 and a d-35 that the d-44 cam is not as large in diameter than an adjustment cam for a d-35. How are all these people able to get a d-44 ball joint and d-44 adjustment cam to tighten properly in a d-35 beam? Does anyone have a list of parts used that they would share?

I have also looked into the swap using a 96 d-35 ranger knuckle (with sliding and bolt on caliper) and bolting on a 96 d-44 bronco 5-bolt spindle (which does in fact bolt up) and sliding on a d-44 rotor. The problem with this swap is that the rotor hits the caliper bracket. Any ideas on either????
that was my question, I have seen two articles in 4wor saying its too small, but several guys on the ranger station have done it. I'm assuming the bolt keeps in tucked in and you just tighten the crap out of pinch bolt.
 




VAUGHN4wd

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that was my question, I have seen two articles in 4wor saying its too small, but several guys on the ranger station have done it. I'm assuming the bolt keeps in tucked in and you just tighten the crap out of pinch bolt.
I just tightened the pinch bolt after torquing the upper ball joint to factory 85 bronco spec. will update with pictures sometime tomorrow!!!
 




VAUGHN4wd

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I got the same measurement from the Dana 35 adjuster sleeve as the Dana 44 sleeve. I used some old dial calipers. Who knows how accurate they are.
 












VAUGHN4wd

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Sorry guys got held up at work. I work out of state, I should be back to my house to take pics and measure my cams in a day or two.
 




stephen93Eddie

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The 44 insert is .approx. .020" smaller in diameter IIRC. Makes sense you can really tighten down the pinch bolt if that's your only option.
this is exactly what I read on a ranger build in 4wor, I think they ended up sleeving the inside of a D35 bushing then tapering it.
 




93XploderMS

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6E2D724B-2DA9-450B-BCCE-2760AB0C7852.jpeg
I just tightened the pinch bolt after torquing the upper ball joint to factory 85 bronco spec. will update with pictures sometime tomorrow!!!
Dana 44 adjustment cams are slightly smaller. After you drive it for a bit recheck the pinch bolt torque. Mine were loose a bit. I also didn’t clear for steering, I added 1/4 stop plates.
 




buford1972

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Looks like I need to test fit some D-44 alignment cams and D-44 knuckles on my loose set of D-35 beams and perform the other mods to them while on the work bench before tearing my Ex apart. I guess it would be the perfect time to install the 4:56 gears and spherical axle pivot bearings. One little mod always snowballs into a much larger project. Lol
 




fordpickupman

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.020" doesn't seem like much on a part like this.
 




fordpickupman

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Other threads it has been stated that the seat for the upper ball joint in the beam has to be clearanced for the upper ball joint to sit in the correct height. No one has mentioned that here.
 




Dzrtcj7

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I've also read about clearance material from the beam around the upper ball joint hole to make the D44 upper ball joint work. That's part of why I went there route of using the D35 upper joint. Also why Brian went the route he did with fabricating an upper ball joint adjuster.

Honestly, I'm not real clear on why some are clearancing.
 




fordpickupman

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It doesn't make sense why there are a couple guys that have mentioned it off hand, and have not shown the interference that necessitates it. Why have many others who have had success in the modification not mentioned it in their threads?

I'm going to be bolting mine together this weekend and I guess if I have a fitment problem I will have to deal with it and will report back here with a pic to document the problem. I want to run the D44 ball joints, I feel that they are beefier. I guess I will check out the differences in size when I get the D35 knuckles off. The Spicer D35 BJs lasted about 15,000 miles. I'm going to run the Napa blue boot units this time.
 




fordpickupman

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I forgot to take pics.
I used knuckles out from a ‘93 f150. The NAPA blue boot ball joints cleared the upper part of the beam fine. I also didn’t have to clearance the beam for steering. The steering stops touched the beam first. ‍♂
It was a super simple modification. If I wasn’t redoing my coil buckets at the same time I’d be driving it around.
For the rear, I ordered new axle shafts from Dutchman axles. $300 seemed like a reasonable deal for the correct bolt pattern and upgraded shafts. I’ll just drill the new pattern in the drums.
 




Dzrtcj7

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That's awesome! I'm sure glad to see there's still people working on these 1st gens. I think this is a totally necessary upgrade for the D35. It's also great that we've got a couple good examples of this mod on the forum now.

I think I may ultimately go for the Dutchman axles. I'm glad to hear they are only $300. I'll probably wait until I regear.
 




fordpickupman

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It’s just too bad the 5.0 wasn’t offered in the 1st gens.
 


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