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BuffaloX

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Thanks for the info Bronco Bill, and everyone who posted...

Got my parts form the bone yard Sat. I told them I needed the knuckles, spindles and axle stub ends-and if possible the steering linkage. They torched off the beam tabs at the ball joints and cut the pitman arm and said here you go.

I had asked for manual hubs but no luck, I'll go back and I'm sure they'll let me take them from another trruck. I was a bit worried when the passenger side axle was separated from the spindle. Later found some of the guts missing upon disassembly.

Bronco Bill, from what I've read the camber adjusters are too short to use, and another area for rework is the taper in the axle housing flange to receive the lower ball joint. Should be reamed larger for the D44 ball joint.? Oh, thanks for the BC Bronco site ref. they had the parts I need for the Heim conversion.

I'm getting my info from the article in Off Road mag. Not that they know what they are talking about, but not too much info else where for reference....

Thanks for your help.
 
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BuffaloX

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I've been working on getting all of the incredibly rusted parts off the knuckle so I can clean them up to paint and rebuild with all new parts, bearings...

One of the hubs had a dent in the side of it compressing on the auto locking parts. Being un familiar with disassembling them made me wonder if I was doing it wrong but we "goter done!" Would have been a real pain without the 12 ton shop press to push the hubs out.

Here's a link to the stud for replacing the Tie Rod with a Heim joint, I'm calling B.C. Bronco's today to see about the parts and tools to do this and the other reamer for the lower ball joint. I definitely want to mount the Heim joint from the top for extra clearance. Hey Bronco Bill you want to sell the reamer you have, if it's the same taper as the stud in the link below?
http://bcbroncos.com/store/product_reviews_info.php?products_id=770&reviews_id=12

I took some pics of the work in progress, but the best pic is the one of the 16x8" Ford take offs, these are sweet rims-brand new and all 4 for $150 from a local parts dealer HowBills.

More later...
 
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Bronco_bill

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You are better of buying a new sharp reamer. I think mine came from goodson.com very inexpensive. I used the same reamer to enlarge the lower ball joint hole and reverse the taper in the knuckle. I used a tra adapter bushing from BC broncos in the new taper. This allowed me to use the stock explorer steering setup. The reamer and two bushings cost me around $100 + F-150 parts around another $100.

Thanks to Kris for coming up with idea.
 
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BuffaloX

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OK Bill, Got the TRA Bushings coming, thanks for your help. Chuck at BC Bronco's told me that Snap-On drivers stock the needed reamer on their truck P/N R121 and it costs about $15. Will do the reaming as soon as the bushings come.
 
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BuffaloX

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Anyone know if the brake lines bolt right up or do I need different ones?
 
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mrboyle

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BuffaloX said:
Anyone know if the brake lines bolt right up or do I need different ones?

Kris should be able to confirm this, but I believe they will bolt up with no problems.
 
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Kris Guilbeaux

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I will confirm this ASAP. I have the Calipers sitting in the garage but havnt atempted the brake lines yet. I pick up my New Wheels and tires Tomorrow so the Truck will be running with in the Next two weeks

Kris

mrboyle said:
Kris should be able to confirm this, but I believe they will bolt up with no problems.
 
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Kris Guilbeaux

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Oh yeah I forgot to let yall know yes the my Brake lines mounted to the 44 Caliper. I am using Procomp SS Lines. And the Longer the Better as the mounting location is different and could use a Little Extra Length if any thing.
 
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BuffaloX

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Ok, goter' done. Plenty of pic, will post them soon. Man, huge difference just looking at the finished product, and all the new shiny parts look so pretty.

Took my time and got it done Thurs. and Friday, about 8 hrs. each. With many interruptions and my son's talent show finished up at 11pm last night and took her for a test drive. The steering wheel wasn't straight but it drove nice, tight and quick to respond.

** Having trouble locating (called around town K&S...) 4.5" to 5.5" wheel adapters for the rear axle to run similar wheels on the back. Anyone know where to get them?

To anyone thinking of doing this, if you can install new ball joints in your truck-you can do this D35 to D44 knuckle swap.
 
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BuffaloX

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Well, got the front end aligned and rides nice, we used Moog Camber nuts 1.5 deg. I put about 50 miles on this afternoon and the ride is nice, especially in the turns-it feels much more stableand looks cool-if you know what you're looking for.

Found some adapters 1.3" thk with nuts for $114, suck$ but necessary. Maybe I'll check into getting some axles made with the 5.5" bolt circle to get the wheel back under the body.

I think I can say I've got one of the coolest eXe's in Buffalo, is there a way to see what members are local to you? OK, G'Day mates.
 
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Kris Guilbeaux

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Dutchman Axle shaft run right at $500 I feel this is a better way.

BuffaloX said:
Found some adapters 1.3" thk with nuts for $114, suck$ but necessary. Maybe I'll check into getting some axles made with the 5.5" bolt circle to get the wheel back under the body.
 
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BuffaloX

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Kris Guilbeaux said:
Dutchman Axle shaft run right at $500 I feel this is a better way.

Oh absolutely, but $100 for spacers has to be the way to go for now. I don't have an extra $500 for new axles.

Are there any Ford stock 31 spline 5x5.5" that I can just swap mine out with that are the right length?
 
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Trckmagik

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^^The fullsize 8.8 (some F150 and Bronco had the) They are fullwidth though.
 
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Bronco_bill

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BufX How dose the brake pedal feel?
 
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BuffaloX

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Bronco_bill said:
BufX How dose the brake pedal feel?

Bill,
I knew the larger brakes would take more fluid and the pedal is soft as expected. The first 25% is soft then it catches up quick, a quick tap and then apply is a huge difference.

I was driving with my 17 yr old son Shawn and was approaching a Stop sign. I wanted to test the brakes for the first time hard, so I coasted close to the Stop sign at 30 mph, he said Dad there's a Stop sign! So I did a quick pump and stood on the pedal and I swear the back tires came off the ground! We just laughed our butts off.

I would like to put the proper master cylinder in to maximize the braking, which one is recommended? I have 97 Explorer rear disc brakes with a 95 disc/disc master cylinder now.

Thanks for your support!
 
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Captain AirTime

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just curious, could you post a quick summary of what you ended up with as a workable solution? sounds pretty involved, but I didn't read every page...

I saw one post on usasble knuckles that seemed odd: only 86 and up? I've used '80 parts with no problems... the only ones to avoid are the crap that came on some 87-88 trucks. it looks like giant ranger parts, with the same stubby spindle and external (hat) lockouts. Otherwise 80-96 works fine. 2 different spindles (5 or 6 bolt) and 2 different callipers (double slide, or slide and bolt) but as long as you use a complete set there's no issues. Pretty much everything on this topic on TRS is bunk, as with the magazine articles...
 
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410Fortune

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I would think a full size truck master cylinder, such as a F-150 with front and rear discs would work perfect and bolt up.
 
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BuffaloX

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I found a master cylinder, should I get the booster too, or just use mine?
 
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410Fortune

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Your should be fine
 
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bobby walter

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BuffaloX said:
Ok, goter' done. Plenty of pic, will post them soon. Man, huge difference just looking at the finished product, and all the new shiny parts look so pretty.

Took my time and got it done Thurs. and Friday, about 8 hrs. each. With many interruptions and my son's talent show finished up at 11pm last night and took her for a test drive. The steering wheel wasn't straight but it drove nice, tight and quick to respond.

** Having trouble locating (called around town K&S...) 4.5" to 5.5" wheel adapters for the rear axle to run similar wheels on the back. Anyone know where to get them?

To anyone thinking of doing this, if you can install new ball joints in your truck-you can do this D35 to D44 knuckle swap.




guys :( , if you would have asked at trs or the rrorc for who has actually done this from the beginning, i know i could have saved you 6 pages... :confused: unless you did and we somehow missed the question. was the tech issue on the trs page resolved, i will go see now.


i only read thru to the 3rd page since it was so old, then skipped to here and seen it still seems relevent and read this page, looks like you figured out it only take about 45 minutes worth of reamin with a fresh reamer...



i dont know if this was hashed out in the pages skipped.
you can run a different master other then what we got, there are 1 inch bore sploder units, but the standard f150 iirc is a 1 1/16, and the standard sploder is 15/16, i had thought it was someone from here that bought my old axle. must not have been. i didnt have problems with the stock sploder unit i ran, but i dont have rear disk brakes.

i bought a 1 in unit that has yet to be installed, its a wagner # MC122576, ordered it online for cheap a year or two ago its dusty. i still have not converted my current axle, and will run it when i do. is anyone running this master or are you just getting and fitting 150 units?
 
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