Dash cam install - anyone do it yet?

[themishmosh]

Sharin, there is nothing to the headliner. You just run the cable up the A-pillar, tuck it in the headliner. I pulled the console down by pulling down on the back end. That way you can snake the cable around to the passenger side and mount the dashcam there. You do not need to do anyting with the mirror or that hard plastic shell right next to it.

 

[SteveAZ]

Sharin, there is nothing to the headliner. You just run the cable up the A-pillar, tuck it in the headliner. I pulled the console down by pulling down on the back end. That way you can snake the cable around to the passenger side and mount the dashcam there. You do not need to do anyting with the mirror or that hard plastic shell right next to it.

Guess I'm overthinking the task. I'll take another look in the morning, thanks miss

 

[themishmosh]

just a picture of the console pulled down. the two wires hanging down are for my dashcam before i passed them through to the passenger side headliner.

 

[SteveAZ]

wow, I'm glad I didn't tamper with the shell in front of the mirror. I'd probably have broken something. I am looking at a 2020?

 

[themishmosh]

yes 2020 Explorer ST. just pull down the back edge... the end with the pocket storage.

 

[Deleted member 348855]

Lots of good suggestions. I think I can handle the wiring but I don't have confidence in pulling down the headliner or the assembly behind the mirror. Lots of stuff up there and I don't want to break something. I wired the 2016 directly to the overhead curtesy lights and that was easy but the new machine tolerances are much tighter and I didn't have a vent in the A pillar. Anybody done a video?

I just upgraded my dash cam to the u1000 and picked up the ODB harness at the same time. If you get the harness it is a very simple installation and no need to remove headliner. Then again, if you go the route of fuse taps you still won't need to remove the headliner. I realize tapping into the connections where the courtesy lights are will result in a very clean installation but I'd had to damage the headliner.

 

[SteveAZ]

I think I've had a half-dozen cams but none with ODB access. I've already purchased a new device so I think I'll be staying with the fuse taps. At least, that's my thinking now, unless the harness is available separately. Still, that would remove the ODB Automatic Pro I've been using for several years. Maybe no great loss at this point.

 

[Sgt1411]

Im still having an issue trying to find a suitable location for the rear camera that comes with the Thinkware F200 kit. I have it mounted top center of rear liftgate glass but it's difficult to line up lens in order to have no defrost element lines in camera view.

Anyone have any luck mounting the rear camera without defrost lines in the field of view?

 

[themishmosh]

I don't think you can avoid the lines. The camera has too wide of an angle and you want to put in somewhere in the middle where the wiper can clean the glass. I just try to make sure the defroster line is somewhere near the top of the picture so the important area is not covered by it.

 

[Sgt1411]

I don't think you can avoid the lines. The camera has too wide of an angle and you want to put in somewhere in the middle where the wiper can clean the glass. I just try to make sure the defroster line is somewhere near the top of the picture so the important area is not covered by it.

OK thats what I did.

I'm just doing the hardwire kit, it's hard to find something metal under there for the ground wire, everything is plastic.

 

[themishmosh]

OK thats what I did.

I'm just doing the hardwire kit, it's hard to find something metal under there for the ground wire, everything is plastic.

There is a grounding nut near the fuse box on the outer wall. it is easily identifiable because its already grounding something. I'd recommend a spade terminal because access is limited and it would be a pain to remove the nut to put on an O-terminal. just loosen and stick the spade in there.

 

[Sgt1411]

There is a grounding nut near the fuse box on the outer wall. it is easily identifiable because its already grounding something. I'd recommend a spade terminal because access is limited and it would be a pain to remove the nut to put on an O-terminal. just loosen and stick the spade in there.

Is this the one you were recommending?.......I used it.
I'm having same issue with fuse taps not staying secure in the fuse slot, might have to go OBD II harness.

 

[Sgt1411]

I used fuse location 29 (spare) for the constant power and location 2 (moonroof/doorswitch pack) for ignition. Only issue is the fuse taps don't fit very snug, if I gently hit the cable the fuse tap pops out. I placed a little dab of hot glue to hold them in place. So far so good.

I used your location in the fuse box they work great, both ACC and BAT power location.

My fusetaps had the same issue as you, they wouldn't go into the fuse box tightly, so we looked them under magnifying glass and the plastic body of the fuse tap just after the fuse tap metal blades appeared to be thicker than the fuse body. After some delicate dremel tool work they snapped in perfectly. Just an FYI for anyone trying the fusetap method.

I bought my fuse taps on Amazon and they are made in China so Im guessing thats the reason they are not made exactly as required.

 

[jhu8]

Does the mirror tap install not work on the 2020 Explorer?

 

[gnotti211]

I used your location in the fuse box they work great, both ACC and BAT power location.

My fusetaps had the same issue as you, they wouldn't go into the fuse box tightly, so we looked them under magnifying glass and the plastic body of the fuse tap just after the fuse tap metal blades appeared to be thicker than the fuse body. After some delicate dremel tool work they snapped in perfectly. Just an FYI for anyone trying the fusetap method.

I bought my fuse taps on Amazon and they are made in China so Im guessing thats the reason they are not made exactly as required.

Great idea to use the dremel to get the fuse taps to work. I was using the fuse taps that came with the dash cam and ran into the same issue, but a few minutes with the dremel and I was able to get them to fit perfectly into fuse location #2.

I wired my BlackVue DR9000X and was able to conceal all the wiring for the front camera, rear camera, and battery pack using the info in this thread. The most difficult part was getting the rear camera wire from the headliner to the trunk lid -- I wanted it to be concealed so I fished it through the rubber gasket, but that proved to be a little more difficult than I thought.

Right now I have the BlackVue battery pack in the glovebox, but eventually it'll be concealed behind the glovebox in the area above the cabin air filter. Just waiting on some insulation padding to prevent it from rattling around.

 

[peterk9]

Right now I have the BlackVue battery pack in the glovebox, but eventually it'll be concealed behind the glovebox in the area above the cabin air filter. Just waiting on some insulation padding to prevent it from rattling around.

Have you checked to see if there is room there? In the 5th gen that is also the area of the power inverter. Not sure if the 6th gen is the same.
Take pic.

Peter

 

[gnotti211]

Have you checked to see if there is room there? In the 5th gen that is also the area of the power inverter. Not sure if the 6th gen is the same.
Take pic.

Peter

I did a test fit and it was tight, but I was able to fit it. My only concern is the ability to secure it so it doesn't move around, but I think I'll be able to figure out a way. The battery fits right between the cabin air filter and the metal piece shown in the photo below (ignore the blue circle).

I'm open to suggestions on other areas to put the battery pack. Ideally I wanted to mount it in a better area but after removing pretty much every trim piece around the center console I figured this would be the best spot.

Here's a picture of the area -- I used another thread on this forum that had detailed information on removing trim and user mcglsr posted several great photos:

How to: - 2020 Explorer ST Aftermarket Amp & Sub Install

 

[Byoozoo]

I was able to run my cord along the top of the windshield down the side pillar along the passenger side outside of the glove box then underneath the glove box running along the side bottom tucked under the console to the back usb in the backseat

 

[Sgt1411]

Just a heads up for anyone planning the installation of a dashcam I recently upgraded from the Thinkware F200 to the Thinkware Q800PRO.
I also purchased their ODBII power cable and it was a simple install. The quality improvement from the F200 to the 2K quality Q800PRO IS HUGE. It comes bundled with a rear camera and hardwire kit for under $300.

Installation tip, when you run the rear cam cable and you go through the OEM rubber boot that holds the OEM wires between rear hatch opening and the liftgate, use a zap strap as your fish tape and spray a little silicone on it. Works like a charm.

 

[Rick]

Just a heads up for anyone planning the installation of a dashcam I recently upgraded from the Thinkware F200 to the Thinkware Q800PRO.
I also purchased their ODBII power cable and it was a simple install. The quality improvement from the F200 to the 2K quality Q800PRO IS HUGE.

I was just looking at the Q800 on Amazon. I suppose you can disable the GPS tracking features?