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DBR/Giant 64 Ranger to Explorer

Here is a picture of my RBV pre 2011:

Rangertirecarrier-bumper12.jpg


In 2010 I had an unfortunate incident in my long travel 2000 Ranger 4x4. Moving through a signalized intersection, I had someone make an illegal left hand turn. They hit me right behind the driver's side front axle. My Ranger did not fair so well:

Rangerbedrack048.jpg


Rangerbedrack052.jpg


It took over 2.5 years to work out a reasonable settlement on the truck. While the insurance was haggling over the value of my truck, I started driving a 3rd Gen 4Runner. This was the first SUV that I have owned. It has been a great vehicle, and it made me realize that an Explorer might have potential.

The nice thing about the Explorer is that many of the parts that I was able to salvage off of the Ranger will transfer over. Here is a summary of what I have to work with:

Dixon Brother's Racing 4X4 long travel kit complete with axles
Dixon Brother's Racing heim steering setup
8" coil over shocks
Giant 64" leaf spring kit (capable of 20" of rear travel)
Ford 9.75 axle out of a 2003 Harley Davidson F150 - re-drilled to 5 on 4.5
4:88 gears (front and rear)
16" triple bypass shocks
Pair of Mastercraft Safety Baja RS suspension seats

I am starting this project with a 1999 Explorer XLT 4X4 with the 4.0 SOHC

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Ranger242

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1999 Ford Explorer Z
Looking awesome so far! Keeping back seats?

Shock and cage killed keeping the stock rear bench. It was close, but just short of fitting. The Explorer will be two seater until I can work the purchase of two more bucked seats into my budget. Not a terrible thing, since buckets in the rear will provide better containment for rear seat passengers.
 



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Ranger242

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Back on wheels for a bit:

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More tube work:

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obie

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Amazing build! Sucks about your Ranger, but cool that you're building up another RBV and can use nearly all the parts.
 






Ranger242

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Amazing build! Sucks about your Ranger, but cool that you're building up another RBV and can use nearly all the parts.

Thanks, I was obviously upset about the Ranger back when it happened. Now that this one is getting closer to driving, I am happy that I was able to make the change.

4.0 SOHC >>> 3.Slow OHV; 4 Seats and locking weather proof storage >>> 2 Seats and an open bed.
 






Ranger242

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Engine cage!

Picture072_zps7d678484.jpg


Keeping the battery under the hood will require me to run an Optima Yellow Top, which is not my first choice in AGM batteries given recent reported failure rates. I will hope to get a good one, and will keep the option open to relocate the battery to the rear of the truck in the future if necessary.

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01STrunner

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The Ranger was really cool and I like where the Ex is headed. I'll enjoy watching this build.
 






Ranger242

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Thanks for the comments. As for fiberglass. I think that my plan is to run a set of Walkers with 3.75 bs at some point in the future. As I looked around, I could not believe how impossible it is to find a 5 on 4.5 17" wheel with anything less than 4.5" bs. Unfortunately at almost $400.00 a wheel, it will be a while before that becomes a reality.

Progress pictures:

Engine cage cross brace is now removable and stock ABS is removed.

Picture043_zps2e6420bb.jpg


Double shear support for the front bypass added:

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Checking to see if my 3rd Gen 4Runner Baja Rack will work up top:

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OffTrac

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The only wheel I found in a 17x8 with less than 4.5" bs is the Pro Comp with 4.25" so that's what I went with. No disappointment so far.
 






Dannyboy

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This is an awesome build. I went with the corbeau seats in my explorer. They had a smaller version for the rear buckets I used and at 6'4" I still fit & don't mind riding back there.
 






Mrhobby100

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please elaborate on what you did to scrap the abs unit. I need to get mine removed before long travel. Did you just unplug the harness and run some adapters for the lines. Does your speedo still work? What did you do for bias control.

All help will be appreciated need to get this done in the next few weeks before fabrication begins.
 






Ranger242

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please elaborate on what you did to scrap the abs unit. I need to get mine removed before long travel. Did you just unplug the harness and run some adapters for the lines. Does your speedo still work? What did you do for bias control.

All help will be appreciated need to get this done in the next few weeks before fabrication begins.

Right now the ABS unit is just removed. I have not re-plumbed anything. From what I have heard, the only down side should be an ABS dash light. I could be wrong, but I think that the bias control is handled by the master and the booster. I don't believe that the ABS unit influences the bias. As for the speedo, I am assuming that it will still work because I have not heard that it is an issue from others that have deleted the ABS system.

Give me a few more weeks and I should be able to tell you if the ABS deletion is causing issues other than a dash light.
 






Mrhobby100

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Right now the ABS unit is just removed. I have not re-plumbed anything. From what I have heard, the only down side should be an ABS dash light. I could be wrong, but I think that the bias control is handled by the master and the booster. I don't believe that the ABS unit influences the bias. As for the speedo, I am assuming that it will still work because I have not heard that it is an issue from others that have deleted the ABS system.

Give me a few more weeks and I should be able to tell you if the ABS deletion is causing issues other than a dash light.

Please don't be mad I am not trying to highjack your thread just thought I would post up some helpful info I got from wilwood.

Maybe I will call wilwood and get some parts and we can figure this out at the same time.

Also from my research the ABS unit is a bias controller. It controls the flow to the back calipers together but it controls the flow to the fronts separately. In a way the function of the ABS unit is a bias controller (a 3 way bias controller)

From my talking with wilwood we are gonna need part #260-11179 proportioning valve to control the flow between the front and rear brakes. If you don't have a proportioning valve your rear tires will lock up before the fronts do and causing an unsafe situation where you are likely to spin out and fish tail under heavy braking.

From wilwood's website
(" Wilwood’s new Combination Proportioning Valve substantially simplifies mounting, plumbing, wiring and brake proportioning adjustments on vehicles with custom brake systems. The combination block maintains full isolation between front and rear fluid circuits and can be used in conjunction with any tandem outlet or dual mount master cylinder assemblies. The rear circuit has a single inlet and single outlet with the adjustable proportioning valve. The front circuit has a single inlet with two outlets. It can be run as a single outlet with one outlet plugged, or used to split the plumbing on its way to the front calipers." )
 






Mrhobby100

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From wilwood

"GENERAL INFORMATION:
• Simplifies mounting, fluid circuit plumbing, brake light wiring, and brake bias adjustments on modified, custom built, or competition
vehicles equipped with brake system upgrades
• Maintains full separation between the front and rear fluid circuits when used with tandem outlet or dual mount master cylinder
assemblies.
• Bias proportioning adjustment is provided in the rear fluid circuit.
• The front circuit has a single inlet and two outlets for optional line routing.
• A fluid port with a pressure switch responds instantly to pressure in the front fluid circuit for brake light activation. A wiring pigtail with
a protective boot is included with the switch.
NOTE: Although the combination valve may mount in some OEM locations, it is not a direct replacement for any OEM unit and may
require modifications to the brake lines and/or the mounting location for installation. Bias proportioning adjustments will be specific
to each vehicle.


INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS:
Mounting: If equipped, the OEM combination valve bracket may provide the ideal mounting location for the combination valve.
Otherwise, position the Wilwood Adjustable Combination Proportioning Valve in a convenient location in close proximately to the master
cylinder(s) using customer supplied hardware or a fabricated bracket.
Line Connections: The line connections on the Wilwood combination valve are 3/8-24 with an SAE inverted flare for standard 3/16”
(-3) brake line. The supplied tube nuts can be double flared onto any 3/16” brake line. However, if your lines are already flared with
3/8-24 fittings, then the tube nuts are not necessary.
1. The line from the master cylinder for the front brakes connects to the port marked “FI”, (front in), on the top of the combination
valve, refer to Figure 1.
2. The two ports on the bottom of the valve marked “FO”, (front out), will be the supply lines to the front calipers. These ports can be
used to run individual lines to each caliper. Or if preferred, one port can be blocked, and a single line run from either “FO” port to
a “T” plumbed downstream, splitting the lines to feed each front caliper. The function of the valve will not change.
3. The line from the master cylinder for the rear brakes connects to the port marked “RI”, (rear in), on the top of the proportioning
valve.
4. The single port marked “RO”, (rear out), connects to the line going to the back of the car to feed the rear calipers.
NOTE: Tube wrenches are always preferred for tightening the fittings.



WARNING
IT IS THE RESPONSIBILITY OF THE PERSON INSTALLING ANY BRAKE COMPONENT OR KIT TO DETERMINE THE SUITABILITY OF THE
COMPONENT OR KIT FOR THAT PARTICULAR APPLICATION. IF YOU ARE NOT SURE HOW TO SAFELY USE THIS BRAKE COMPONENT OR
KIT, YOU SHOULD NOT INSTALL OR USE IT. DO NOT ASSUME ANYTHING. IMPROPERLY INSTALLED OR MAINTAINED BRAKES ARE
DANGEROUS. IF YOU ARE NOT SURE, GET HELP OR RETURN THE PRODUCT. YOU MAY OBTAIN ADDITIONAL INFORMATION AND
TECHNICAL SUPPORT BY CALLING WILWOOD AT (805) 388-1188, OR VISIT OUR WEB SITE AT WWW.WILWOOD.COM. USE OF WILWOOD
TECHNICAL SUPPORT DOES NOT GUARANTEE PROPER INSTALLATION. YOU, OR THE PERSON WHO DOES THE INSTALLATION MUST
KNOW HOW TO PROPERLY USE THIS PRODUCT. IT IS NOT POSSIBLE OVER THE PHONE TO UNDERSTAND OR FORESEE ALL THE ISSUES
THAT MIGHT ARISE IN YOUR INSTALLATION.
RACING EQUIPMENT AND BRAKES MUST BE MAINTAINED AND SHOULD BE CHECKED REGULARLY FOR FATIGUE, DAMAGE, AND WEAR.
WARNING
DO NOT OPERATE ANY VEHICLE ON UNTESTED BRAKES!"
 






Mrhobby100

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Proportioning Valve Adjustment: The proportioning valve is used to adjust the rate of increase in rear brake line pressure, relative and proportionate to the
increase in front brake line pressure. For safety and performance, the rear brakes should never lock before the front brakes. Otherwise, an out of control situation
could occur.
1. Begin with the valve in the full proportioned (least pressure) position by turning the knob all the way out (counter-clockwise rotation).
2. In a safe location, make several hard stops from 30 MPH observing the function of the rear brakes. If the rear brakes do not lock up before the front, gradually
increase the rear line pressure by rotating the valve clockwise (two turns each time).
3. Continue these adjustments until the maximum amount of rear brake pressure can be achieved, and no wheel rear lock is observed.
4. Test the vehicle again at 50 MPH and make any additional adjustments as needed.
Help: If after following the instructions, you still have difficulty with installing, bleeding, or adjusting your Wilwood Combination Proportioning Valve, consult your
chassis builder, the retailer where the valve was purchased, a qualified brake technician, or Wilwood Customer Service at (805) 388-1188.
 






Ranger242

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Thanks. Let me know what you find out. I will look into that part as well.
 






Mrhobby100

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Thanks. Let me know what you find out. I will look into that part as well.

Ok i got some more helpful info. I unplugged my abs block at lunch break and drove around the mall parking lot across the street and it ran just fine. One major problem i found is that we still need the damn brain connected to the back of the block otherwise you lose speedometer. I drove for 30 mins and only negative was no speedo. But i beet you we could dismantle our abs blocks and get the computer separated and then mounted under the hood. I just hope you didnt throw away your abs block or no speedo for you. Try to strip your block down and let me know if the computer can be separated. Stupid freakin obd2 tied into every god damn sensor in the car.
 






DoraThe_Explorer

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Great build! I'm also going to subscribe to see how it turns out. :popcorn:
 






Ranger242

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Picked up the bypasses from ADS and had them mounted up:

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Added brake and limit strap mounts:

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Ranger242

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Tie rod was hitting the spring pocket, so a custom one was in order. This will get powder coated black. This was done by hand on a lathe, and no I did not do it. Pretty impressive though:

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Closing up the cargo area. The sheet metal will step up and fully enclose the shock tower. Raw metal and summer monsoon storms don't mix:

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Added a mount and wiring for a CB antenna. Race radio wiring and antenna mount already added through the roof. I am thinking about stepping down to a 3' antenna. The 4' seems super tall:

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Head liner back in:

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