Dead truck! Help

[sparty22]

Hi all,

I have a 1998 Ford Explorer Sport. I recently came across some major corrosion to my positive terminal cable, which was causing problems starting my truck. I purchased a splice kit and replaced this terminal. The truck started with no issues after this. It has been approximately 7 weeks and now my truck will not start. When I turn over the key I get a repetitive clicking noise. The terminals have very minor corrosion. I jump started my truck with no issues, drove it for five minutes. I went to start it the next day and nothing, just the repetitive clicking noise again.

I don't think its my battery because I had it checked when I replaced the terminal cable. Could this be an alternator issue or something else?

Thank you for your help.

 

[Joe Dirt]

If you get repetitive clicking, that sounds like a dead battery, especially if a jump cured it...

It could be an alternator not charging it, or a drain on the system somewhere. I would have the battery tested though.

 

[rego]

Check battery voltage with motor running and with motor not running.

 

[sparty22]

I checked the voltage on my battery after I jumped it. It read 12.4 not running, while running it was around 13.5 and then I turned the heater on and the voltage rose. From what I have read this means the alternator is working.

I still encounter a dead battery later in the day or the next. I checked the voltage on my battery and it had dropped to around 10 volts.

Any thoughts?

 

[98 5oh XLT]

Short in the system?

 

[2000StreetRod]

check the water level

Battery charging and discharging result in the loss of electrolyte in the battery. After a few years the level drops below the top of the battery plates reducing charge/discharge capacity. Batteries used to have indicators on the top to identify when the electrolyte was low. Now batteries are sealed so you buy them more often. I pry the tops off and add distilled water to bring the level back up to normal. I usually get two more years out a battery by doing that.

 

[sparty22]

I took my truck in for service to indentify the cause of the battery draw. They told me it was likely the GEM that was faulty. They said it would cost between $800-$1000 for parts and labor. I chose not to have the repair performed. They did tell me that if I removed a specific fuse when the vehicle is not running than no draw should occur. I looked in the manual and it noted that the fuse was linked to the GEM. Since then I have pulled the fuse at all times when my truck isn't running and I have had no problems with a dead battery.

I am curious if I can purchase and replace this part myself. I am somewhat mechanically inclined and I have friends that can help. If possible, how much could I purchase a GEM for? The vehicle in question is a 1998 Ford Explorer Sport V6 4.0 liter SOHC.

 

[jremington59]

Let me guess, fuse number 27?

Here's something else to try. Remove the alt fuse in the power distribution box and see if the draw stops. I had a similiar problem and had the alt checked and it said it was fine, only to continue the battery drain. It ended up I had a short in the voltage regulator.

If it does end up being the GEM, I bought one for my other one that has the 4.0 that I can get rid of.

 

[mickeyg]

have you had any luck solving this problem?I have the same problem.Mine seems like the ignition key is in the acc.position.Withkey in off position all accesseries(eg.heater,wipers, radio,signals ) etc.can be turned on.Battery goes dead in 2 days.I have spent $500.00 for a new alternator and a few hours checking for a short.Looking at the wiring diagrams I am beginning to think it might be the GEM.Anybody have any ideas as I am getting broke.