-Deathrow Update Log-

[DemonMudder]

Not an update, but I'm pretty sure this isn't the normal sounding start up. Sounds a bit nasty at first, even in the idle, audio isn't great but you can make it out. Done this since day one but never really paid much mind to it since I had other projects and issues. But what're yalls opinions, I'm dang sure it shouldn't sound quite like that, could be crazy though. Don't notice it so much or at all when cranking her after she's warmed up,

 

[donalds]

Hard to hear .
When my engine was new

 

[DemonMudder]

Hard to hear .
When my engine was new

Well I know the video won't sound 100% like it actually does, but yeah, guess it is pretty normal, mine ain't far from that in idle. Great, should be one less thing to look into, thanks!

 

[donalds]

Well I know the video won't sound 100% like it actually does, but yeah, guess it is pretty normal, mine ain't far from that in idle. Great, should be one less thing to look into, thanks!

Here is a thread with lots of videos and info

4.0 SOHC Timing Noise

I've had my 1999 Explorer 4.0 SOHC professionally rebuilt with the stipulation that I would have to install the timing components myself - which I did using the OTC timing kit and a new timing kit with balance shaft tensioner and chain from Evergreen (which is apparently not worth buying) and...

www.explorerforum.com

 

[DemonMudder]

Let yet another project begin! At least this is halfway done (pictures were from the beginning), just need to run the wires up to the battery, but they're already hooked to eachother and to the reverse. Should have 'em done either tonight or in the morning.

 

[DemonMudder]

Okay, need some quick help. Wired them up and nothing. Hooked to the black and red reverse wire, connected to (according to the instructions) the correct number on the block. Connected both lights positives together and quick spliced them to the block. Took the passenger light negative to it's own bumper bolt. The driver light negative quick spliced to the blocks negative wire grounded to a bumper bolt. The final wire runs along the frame, up to the fuse block with currently a 20 amp fuse. Why the heck ain't they on? The reverse comes on just fine, supposed to trigger them too. Y'all see anything I don't?
Edit: swapped the connections off of the block to a switch. Still no lights but the switch itself lights up, so power from the fuse block is fine at leas

 

[BKennedy]

See if they work directly off the reverse wire. I have a set of very bright LED's with no relay connected to the reverse wires.

Did you try them with the engine running (block the wheels of course)?
Typical relay wiring

 

[DemonMudder]

See if they work directly off the reverse wire. I have a set of very bright LED's with no relay connected to the reverse wires.

Did you try them with the engine running (block the wheels of course)?

Was just about to add another update. Passenger light works, took the wire straight to the switch, came on, back to the original block, came on with the reverse. Just not sure what's up with the driver side one, the ground is fine, tested that already. Just tried the driver side like I did the passenger side, still nothing. Fun...

 

[Mbrooks420]

That wiring gives me major anxiety.

What’s the draw on the lights?

Are you sure the reverse light is red?
On my 98 the wire powering the reverse lights is pink( possibly with a green stripe?)

 

[DemonMudder]

That wiring gives me major anxiety.

What’s the draw on the lights?

Are you sure the reverse light is red?
On my 98 the wire powering the reverse lights is pink( possibly with a green stripe?)

Yes, as said, I got the passenger light to come on with the reverse lights. So the wiring is correct, except for the driver side. Which means the light probably came with screwed up wiring. And yes, the wirings a mess, I'll work on cleaning it up later, just want to be sure they even work first. Also, they pull 0.5 amps each, 12-24 volts each.

 

[Mbrooks420]

Test the LED by directly to the battery.

 

[DemonMudder]

Test the LED by directly to the battery.

Yep, working on it

 

[DemonMudder]

Test the LED by directly to the battery.

Positive straight to the battery, still no light

 

[Mbrooks420]

That’s unfortunate.

 

[BKennedy]

Whelp, there's your problem right there. Light no workie

 

[DemonMudder]

Whelp, there's your problem right there. Light no workie

Yeah that's certainly the issue, no one has the dang things in stock either, had to go to two places to even get what I had. Have until tomorrow night to get another and hook it up, could go out trailing with one, but I want both.

 

[DemonMudder]

Well it's done, just in time for work. Different company and flood and instead of spot like the other, but the work! The driver side is also like 300 lumens brighter too, so maybe I'll swap them both for that, little nicer wiring too.

 

[CDW6212R]

Remove all of those wire cutting connectors, those leave bare wire exposed to the elements(rain, water), which makes shorts and/or waste juice. Those should never be used outside, or in high current circuits, or for permanent use. I don't own any of those, I toss them like cork gaskets, they're terrible.

 

[DemonMudder]

Remove all of those wire cutting connectors, those leave bare wire exposed to the elements(rain, water), which makes shorts and/or waste juice. Those should never be used outside, or in high current circuits, or for permanent use. I don't own any of those, I toss them like cork gaskets, they're terrible.

As said, just wanted make sure they were up and running, I'm going to clean them up and actually solder them together later. The wire running to the battery is in a tube and should be fine, need to get some more tubing for it. Plenty of zip ties, electrical tape and tubing.

 

[Mbrooks420]

At 1 amp, I’d run them strictly off of the reverse light circuit. That amount of load is a non-issue. Way less wiring, and points of failure.