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Keep going is the goal. I have to fix the pinion bearings in my work Explorer this weekend etc. I don't have a way to rebuild the rear, so I'll be swapping the rear from my Mounty, and the diff's between them. I have a Torsen in my Mounty which has been great for my needs. I don't want to let that go with my current 98 Explorer when I sell it. So I'll be swapping a lot of parts around, the whole rear is the beast part. I should be plenty tired when I finish, and I hope I don't find anything else amiss.
Night,
Dang, that's quite the project! Least it's a direct swap over, make sure not to hurt yourself!
 



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Alright, well, I extended the wiring and replaced the wiring harness for the tps, which seems like it helped? It will still crank all the way to 2k rpms before calming back down to like 1200, but she'll idle, it's kinda rough, but she idles without dying! It still gets close to dying, like very close...it'll dip to 400rpms at times, especially after a rev, but even during idle, it'll range from 608-637 or so, which I'd say is fine, but you'll feel surges inside, I don't see it but I can feel it and hear it, I'd guess like 500rpms? But it's close..! No tranny codes now either, still got O/D flashing constant. Got her up to 190 something degress before cutting her off for the night, seems okay! My leaking elbow under the thermostat is replaced now too, unhappily but it is. Suggestions on where to start before i make some DIY smoke leak finder?
Doubt it's the culprit, but I'll try putting my old throttle body back vs this new bigger one and see if that's the cause of everything. Probably tomorrow night.
 






Keep going is the goal. I have to fix the pinion bearings in my work Explorer this weekend etc. I don't have a way to rebuild the rear, so I'll be swapping the rear from my Mounty, and the diff's between them. I have a Torsen in my Mounty which has been great for my needs. I don't want to let that go with my current 98 Explorer when I sell it. So I'll be swapping a lot of parts around, the whole rear is the beast part. I should be plenty tired when I finish, and I hope I don't find anything else amiss.
Night,
I put a torsen in mine when I regeared. Love it.
 






Alright, assistance...think i found my tranny codes issue, maybe the idle issue but doubt that second half. Tell me, this don't look right does it? This is the main connector on the passenger top side of the bell housting, same harness that holds the o2 sensor plug right beside it. Any ideas what to do about that?? I'm so lost on what happened. I had a suspicion that was the cause since I had trouble plugging it in before running the engine since I couldn't turn the tires, but sure enough it just fell right back out when I touched it and appears like a seal is loose in there?? Blocking connectors and what not? Can I just use dome pliers and pull it out??

20250203_224256.jpg


20250203_224241.jpg
 






Alright, fixed that, that red and seal were supposed to go on the other connector half, so they got stuck in there. Pliers ripped it out, placed it correctly, plugged in fine! Cleared the codes and so far they didn't return, but I didn't run the engine very long due to being late, I'll do some better testing tomorrow and Wednesday to be sure...! But still have that maybe vacuum leak being a problem..
 






Good catch, fun picture to see. Interesting, how'd that seal get moved? Those are moisture seals, great in all the newer cars. That red plastic piece goes onto the connector to lock the terminals in, so somehow the plastic piece got out. I had to take apart dozens of the factory connectors when I built my 99. I moved the wires around, added some etc. Those colored plastic pieces are in all connectors, they are locks for the tiny plastic tangs that hold the terminals in. They are a contrasting color to the connector, so they are easy to spot.
 






Good catch, fun picture to see. Interesting, how'd that seal get moved? Those are moisture seals, great in all the newer cars. That red plastic piece goes onto the connector to lock the terminals in, so somehow the plastic piece got out. I had to take apart dozens of the factory connectors when I built my 99. I moved the wires around, added some etc. Those colored plastic pieces are in all connectors, they are locks for the tiny plastic tangs that hold the terminals in. They are a contrasting color to the connector, so they are easy to spot.
Some good facts there! And yeah, certainly interesting that it did that, surprised it took me this long to notice too
 






Still ain't figured out the vacuum leak or whatever it is...but, think yall know what time it is..may be doing test drives in the morning...!

20250205_234544.jpg
 






Test drive o clock!
 






The part we've all been waiting for!
 






Well, first test drive went pretty much great, but then got called into work though. Figured why not, take the sploder! I wasn't even half way before I was slipping almost constantly above 1st, O/D started flashing, Limped it to work since it was easier to get there on back roads than back on the highway home. Checked the code and it's only code P0733, which is Gear 3 Incorrect Ratio, which I'm not sure where came from? Also, when I got to work this afternoon, reverse didn't work, it would drive forward...neutral did the same and still does. Reverse as of tonight just acts like neutral but still has its rev limiter. Though I'm still afraid to act like it is neutral since the first time reverse did this, I tried to push it and it nearly ran me over instead. Park and drive are all I got pretty much. And only a code for Gear 3....ideas...? Fluids good, if anything it's slightly over now as a precaution.
 






That's such a weird combination of items simultaneously wrong, that I'm almost inclined to think the PCM might be the issue.

Weird idling, weird behaviors on throttle release, weird shifting behaviors... What's the connection? They all run through the PCM. Have you considered the possibility?

(I wouldn't have considered this except that my '03 Durango cooked its GEM randomly one day; then it wouldn't start at all some times, would have occasional hiccups when running when it did run, if you turned it off it might or might not start again, and apparently wasn't storing codes for some existing issues.)
 






That's such a weird combination of items simultaneously wrong, that I'm almost inclined to think the PCM might be the issue.

Weird idling, weird behaviors on throttle release, weird shifting behaviors... What's the connection? They all run through the PCM. Have you considered the possibility?
The idle thing is almost fixed actually? Cleaned the oem iac up and put it back and it may have helped it seems? Hadn't considered that, hope it aint..
 






I think my tuner can mess with the tranny gear ratio, what if I set gear 3 to a different value? Does anyone know what the original ratios should be? That way I can maybe try that?? Don't think it'll fix the reverse and neutral things but may help the slipping.
 






Can't prove it, but Post #2 by Jefe


Also, remember that "3rd" gear is probably either 2nd or 4th, since the 5R55E is a 3-speed that uses Overdrive twice.

IIRC the order is 1 > 1 + OD > 2 > 3 > 3 + OD, can anybody confirm that this is correct?
 






Can't prove it, but Post #2 by Jefe


Also, remember that "3rd" gear is probably either 2nd or 4th, since the 5R55E is a 3-speed that uses Overdrive twice.

IIRC the order is 1 > 1 + OD > 2 > 3 > 3 + OD, can anybody confirm that this is correct?
Wait really? It's a 3 speed with two overdrive? Didn't know that...! But interesting
 






Can't prove it, but Post #2 by Jefe


Also, remember that "3rd" gear is probably either 2nd or 4th, since the 5R55E is a 3-speed that uses Overdrive twice.

IIRC the order is 1 > 1 + OD > 2 > 3 > 3 + OD, can anybody confirm that this is correct?
I think 2nd is the false gear with 1+OD yes.
 






If you turn O/D OFF like I always do when wheeling, you'll very definitely feel it skip 1 + OD and go directly from 1 to 2, with 4.10 gears. 3.73's might not kick you like 4.10's do, but after changing the Sport to 5.13's I can most definitely tell you that two out of five shifts are not done when O/D is off. My fuel consumption agrees.
 






If you turn O/D OFF like I always do when wheeling, you'll very definitely feel it skip 1 + OD and go directly from 1 to 2, with 4.10 gears. 3.73's might not kick you like 4.10's do, but after changing the Sport to 5.13's I can most definitely tell you that two out of five shifts are not done when O/D is off. My fuel consumption agrees.
Good to know! Well, I tried checking the tuner and I can set like the mph of the shift, or set it off by a percent or something, can't remember now, but I can't set the ratios, so I'm screwed there.

Alright, well, gonna try towing it home Monday, then I'm waiting for parts. Going to just try starting with the valve body, valve body gasket, and solenoids, if that doesn't do it, I'm putting the old ones back in this one, grabbing a new low mileage tranny, putting these new parts in and calling it a day. Hope it doesn't come to a tranny swap...but parts are gonna take up to 2 weeks before coming in, the gasket at least most likely will, so progress is gonna be slow. Anyone know the torque specs offhand for the valve body?
 



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Good to know! Well, I tried checking the tuner and I can set like the mph of the shift, or set it off by a percent or something, can't remember now, but I can't set the ratios, so I'm screwed there.

Alright, well, gonna try towing it home Monday, then I'm waiting for parts. Going to just try starting with the valve body, valve body gasket, and solenoids, if that doesn't do it, I'm putting the old ones back in this one, grabbing a new low mileage tranny, putting these new parts in and calling it a day. Hope it doesn't come to a tranny swap...but parts are gonna take up to 2 weeks before coming in, the gasket at least most likely will, so progress is gonna be slow. Anyone know the torque specs offhand for the valve body?
Voila...
 






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