Derale 16217 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Derale 16217


Well-Known Member
October 30, 2007
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City, State
Year, Model & Trim Level
97 Mountaineer
Part Type: Electric Fan

CFM high/low: 2400/1800
Amp draw high/low: 23.5/17.4
Width: 16-7/8"
Height: 16-7/8"
Depth: 2-5/8"
Mounting: 8-7/8" x 15-5/8"



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Awesome setup! How much did all of it run you? Are you planning on filling in the gap between the fan and shroud?

Fan was $168.99, controller was $21.88.

Just about $200 from Summit Racing, and it arrived at my door the next day.

The aluminum brackets on the bottom did not come with the kit. Those I added myself. You could easily use the zip tie attachments that come with the kit to fasten the bottom of the fan through the radiator fins.

I did not install mine with the factory shroud. The photo with the shroud is just to show that you can install it with the factory shroud. I like not having the factory shroud and having all that extra room to work with under the hood. If I'm not cooling effectively, then I might consider putting the factory shroud back.

When installing the controller, it is better to solder than to use those connectors that came with the kit. It is also good to use the thicker wires. I recommend having:

- a right angle drill for tight spaces
- a good cutting tool
- a wire stripping tool
- 8mm 1/4" drive socket, extension, and ratchet handle for the battery
- drill, wrenches, screwdrivers, nuts, washers, lock washers & bolts for mounting
- extra wiring, kit will not have enough wiring
- an electronic hook-up kit that has a variety of connectors
- a soldering iron, soldering flux, solder
- liquid electrical tape & standard electrical tape
- heat shrink tubes and a heat gun
- dielectric grease
- multi meter & test light
- extra mini fuses and fuse taps
- 30 AMP relay (suggested)
- split loom
- zip ties

My switch unit came with a green wire and a yellow wire (no brown) to trigger my 85 post on the relay.

I connected the yellow wire to the thermostat probe and ran my own (pick a color, any color) wire to the fues block. For my 12V keyed ignition source, I used the fuse panel next to the front driver side door and ran a wire through the firewall. I selected the number 30 slot, used a spare fuse that was already inside of the panel, and a simple fuse tap and a female connector at the end of my wire.

To power my over-ride wire (green) I selected the A/C unit. You can also run it through the firewall into a dash mounted switch for manual over-ride. There is an electrical harness which connects to the A/C unit next to the battery tray. On my car, there were only two wires, one was yellow & black, the other one was black. I decided that the all black wire must be the ground, and that the yellow and black powered the unit. To be sure, I disconnected the connector and zip tied it out of the way. Then I started my car, turned the A/C on, and tested the connector with my test light. I don't like those squeeze on wire taps that come with the kit. I used a wire stripping tool, exposed about 1/5" of the wire, then soldered the green connecting wire.

The 86 post on the controller is a ground. I grounded both the controller and the fan to the negative post on the car's battery.

The 87 post operates your fan(s). This switch is set up to operate two fans with a combined draw of up to 25 AMPs. We are only operating one fan. I cut the wire between the switch and fuse holder, then ran my own line directly connecting the controller to the grey and brown lines on the fan. This particular fan is set up to operate as a low speed and high speed fan off two different control sources. For this application, I am only using one controller, and will operate this as high speed only.

The 30 post on the relay goes directly to the battery for power. I installed a circuit breaker on the side of the battery tray next to the positive post on the battery. The ciruit breaker takes the place of the fuse and fuse holder that I cut out of the line on the 87 post. If the circuit breaker trips, it will reset itself. No more issues with fuses blowing and having to change fuses. If you are driving, and don't know that the fuse has blown, then your fan just won't work and your car will overheat. The battery is connected to the circuit breaker, and the 30 post on the relay will connect to the circuit breaker. It is always safer to install your circuit breaker, or even your fuse, as close to the battery as possible; as opposed to inline from the controller to the fan.

The thermostat must touch the radiator fins in order to work. Be very careful when installing the probe. In my car, the A/C cooler is the same size as the radiator, and mounted directly in front with only about 1" in between. I had to cut the probe in order for the thermostat to work. And there was no way for me to install the pad and clip onto the probe with the radiator installed. You may have to pull the radiator out in order to do this properly, or live with the thermostat not being clipped in properly.

Great references for when I do my fan installation! Thanks for posting this! :D

subscribing :popcorn:

Nice install... really clean.

As someone else in another thread pointed out. You may want to try moving the fan temp sensor.

I tried running the sensor off the Engine temp and found the fan always came on late and was always behind the curve. You would get the same affect with it at the inliet of the radiator.

I moved our electric fan controller sensor to near the output of the radiator.

My thinking is this....

The thermostat is there to regulate the temp of the motor...
The radiator is there to pull the heat out of the water
If the radiator can't pull the heat out using ambient air flow then the fan should help.

Using the above logic, the radiator outlet temp should always always be somewhat constant. I have my fan turning on when the output of the radiator is 167F or so. By doing so the Fan turns on when the coolant starts to get warm and not when the motor is too hot.

You can see the difference here.
Video one is set so the fan will turn off once on the freeway with the sensor in the hot water line.

This video shows it with the sender near the output of the radiator. The one with the output of the radiator keeps the van cooler and doesn't turn on when driving. Even when I'm messing with the throttle. With it installed in the hot water path it would not turn off if I messed with the throttle.

With all that said, your controller is fixed at 180F on and off at 170. If you moved the sensor closer to the Radiator output it will turn on later, but it will be turning on when the radiator can't pull enough heat out so the logic still stands. Its worth a shot though..


No arguments from me. What you said makes perfect sense. I am not an expert, and I didn't engineer the system. The installation instructions from Derale were to put the probe "as close to the water inlet as possible". See step 2 below. Their idea. Not mine. My Troyer electric fan kit has the probes (there are two, one for each fan) in the middle of the radiator, along the top rows, and between the fans.


I noticed a bunch of companies do it that way. I haven't been able to get a real answer as to why they do it that way.. It just doesn't make sense.

Even the Hayden controller instructions said to install it near the inlet.

I guess its time to email them and find out what their logic is..


With a "point & shoot" handheld laser thermometer, I can see that temp readings are all over the place depending on where I aim it. Heat transfer is different on the different materials of the engine block, thermostat housing, radiator hoses, and radiator fins. And none of those readings are anywhere near close with what the PCM is reading. Let's forget the numbers for a second. I know that the radiator is working because fins are hotter near the inlet, and the upper hose is hotter than the lower hose. Those readings indicate that without a fan, the radiator can dissipate about 10 - 15 degrees of heat while the car is just idling in my garage.

With the current set-up, probe near inlet, the fan turns on when the probe detects 180 degrees against the surface of the fins. We really don't know what the actually temperature of the coolant is inside of the radiator. The PCM reading is at or about 195 - 200.

I'm guessing that if the probe were near the outlet, my fan would not turn on until the PCM reading is at or above 210. In my case, that would be completely within the desired operating temperature range. But in real world conditions, idling in desert traffic is a lot different than idling in my garage @ 50 degrees ambient temperature, on a foggy day, with the hood open, and a wind blowing. I don't think that I stand any dangers of running into the 230 degree range, but that is only on my car. It is different on every car, and these kits are designed as a "one size fits all".

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Whats the brand and part number for that fan? And did it come with all the bracketry aside from the metal bracketry you added at the bottom? And where did you get that metal bracketry?