Differential Swap | Page 14 | Ford Explorer - Ford Ranger Forums - Serious Explorations

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Differential Swap

ThatOneGuy99

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So I learned I'm very stupid, I took off my brake lines from the calipers and left them to chill thinking they wouldn't be off that long, it's been 4 days. All the brake fluid leaked out and now the pedal just goes to the floor when I press it 🙃
 



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Fix4Dirt

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So I learned I'm very stupid, I took off my brake lines from the calipers and left them to chill thinking they wouldn't be off that long, it's been 4 days. All the brake fluid leaked out and now the pedal just goes to the floor when I press it 🙃
looks like time to go buy some fluid and get ready to bleed em
 






ThatOneGuy99

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Is it even possible to bleed the air out of the master cylinder without it getting trapped? I know on the older explorers it was fairly straightforward but once they added ABS it got a lot harder
 






CDW6212R

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How much brake fluid is left in the master cylinder? The only thing critical is to not let air get into the brake lines near the ABS module. Keep the MC topped off with fluid, at all times. Whenever you open any line, don't leave it open unplugged for long at all. Put it back together or find something to place in the open line or fitting. A golf tee works fine for that if it's not left that way for long.

Bleeding the ABS module is a very hard task, it requires a device to manual open the ABS valving. So don't let air into the system.
 






ThatOneGuy99

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How much brake fluid is left in the master cylinder? The only thing critical is to not let air get into the brake lines near the ABS module. Keep the MC topped off with fluid, at all times. Whenever you open any line, don't leave it open unplugged for long at all. Put it back together or find something to place in the open line or fitting. A golf tee works fine for that if it's not left that way for long.

Bleeding the ABS module is a very hard task, it requires a device to manual open the ABS valving. So don't let air into the system.
I do have a scanner with the service option to open it if it comes to that, there was maybe enough to cover the very bottom of the reservoir but that's a strong maybe, I couldn't get a good look
 






ThatOneGuy99

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I guess I can top it off and connect it to the drum brakes just to keep it from sucking air
 






CDW6212R

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Keep fluid in the MC and hope it didn't have any air get into the front lines. Plug the open rear lines and cover the MC top with a piece of Reynold's Wrap or similar. The MC cap is a venting cap, it doesn't stop air from coming in. If you place a piece of cellophane like the Reynold's Wrap, that should keep the fluid all in there.
 






Josh P

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Someone on here, used an abs tone ring with 1 tooth missing to bleed the abs.
 






ThatOneGuy99

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Keep fluid in the MC and hope it didn't have any air get into the front lines. Plug the open rear lines and cover the MC top with a piece of Reynold's Wrap or similar. The MC cap is a venting cap, it doesn't stop air from coming in. If you place a piece of cellophane like the Reynold's Wrap, that should keep the fluid all in there.
So once I bleed the rear brakes is the only way to tell if there is air in the ABS lines just to see if it's still spongey?
 






Fix4Dirt

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So once I bleed the rear brakes is the only way to tell if there is air in the ABS lines just to see if it's still spongey?
iirc he air doesnt come out unless abs is activated. forscan can bleed em for ya, thats what i did, or find a gravel road, get up to speed, slam brakes on
 






CDW6212R

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The ABS has passages in it which are unused most of the time. Bleeding the brakes normally just pushes fluid through the normal pathways, not into the deep ABS valves, which have to be opened at the same time as bleeding(if there is air in them).

So it's not a sure thing that you have air in the ABS, but it is possible. But still, try to keep any more air from entering the lines leading to or from the ABS. Get a large container of a top brand fluid from the local store, and get ready to bleed all of the lines fully. You will have better brakes than originally, the discs and new fluid might be notable. Put on some good rear pads while doing the conversion, Ford makes some great pads for the 1995-01 4dr's. Check with Rock Auto, and look at all of the OEM pads, the best versions are listed as HD or SD(severe duty).
 






Mbrooks420

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So I learned I'm very stupid, I took off my brake lines from the calipers and left them to chill thinking they wouldn't be off that long, it's been 4 days. All the brake fluid leaked out and now the pedal just goes to the floor when I press it 🙃
Happens to the best of us. Just think about it as a long drain and fill. Probably was due for fluid anyways.

Fill it up and check it out. Activate the abs via the scanner a few times, and you’ll probably be fine.
 






ThatOneGuy99

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Happens to the best of us. Just think about it as a long drain and fill. Probably was due for fluid anyways.

Fill it up and check it out. Activate the abs via the scanner a few times, and you’ll probably be fine.
The fluid was just changed less than 1K ago XD
 






Mbrooks420

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It’s a multi step flush. Really getting all that old stuff out of there.
 






C420sailor

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I’ve replaced both front brake lines and didn’t have to bleed the ABS. You may get lucky.
 






ThatOneGuy99

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I’ve replaced both front brake lines and didn’t have to bleed the ABS. You may get lucky.
There was just a little bit of fluid left in the master cylinder so I'm hoping air didn't get into the ABS lines. The pedal goes to the floor almost immediately but there's air in both of the rear brake lines for sure so I'm hoping that's all it is
 






Fix4Dirt

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It’s a multi step flush. Really getting all that old stuff out of there.
question- what color is ya breake fluid? when i redid everything (well mostly rubber lines MC that stuff) the fluid that came out was green. fast forward 10k and a year to yesterday, came out green again. the fluid is still somewhat new (and last time i flushed it multipoe times so all the old fluid is gone and abs pump too) but its still green! is it the copper making its way into the fluid? or some anti corrosion on the hard lines?
 






CDW6212R

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The green is a normal color for brake fluid as it gets older. Try to keep it transparent and flush it out every couple of years, more or less based on driving distance etc. Brake fluid has also exploded in price recently. What used to be a few dollars for parts store stuff, is now well over $5, and top brands are $10-$20+ it looks like. ATE and Pennzoil are my favorite brands for somewhat easy to get fluid, the high end race brands are too much for average street vehicles.
 






Fix4Dirt

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The green is a normal color for brake fluid as it gets older. Try to keep it transparent and flush it out every couple of years, more or less based on driving distance etc. Brake fluid has also exploded in price recently. What used to be a few dollars for parts store stuff, is now well over $5, and top brands are $10-$20+ it looks like. ATE and Pennzoil are my favorite brands for somewhat easy to get fluid, the high end race brands are too much for average street vehicles.
oh alright 👍 funny thing is that i try to change the fluid every 2-3 years, and last year i fully flushed everything and now a year later its back to green 😂 guess time to change again! luckily a year ago i bought one too many bottles its unopened still so inassume its alright, cause there aint much air in the unopened bottle. even though its hydroscopic is shoyld still be alright if its unopened right?
 



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ThatOneGuy99

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The fluid in mine is pretty much clear, when I topped it off the fluid I put in was the same color as what was in it already.
 






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