digital odometer

[ekoog82]

ok, so im new to this but ill try it out. When i bought my 02 xlt 2 years ago i noticed that the odometer was not bright at all. Then it started to get lighter, and so on to where it would come on and then go out. at first if you hit on the dash above it would come back on. Now it has gotten to the point of not coming on at all. i noticed this past winter that sometimes when its cold enough it will come on. so i decided to write the mileage down and it is still reading mileage, but wont come on. is there a relay thats bad or what should i do please help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[Exploderpilot]

wow. all i can say is pull the console and check connectors. they use modular connector on the back of the display, so check pins for corrosion etc......

 

[White97Jimmy]

I've had my cluster replaced and they had to reprogram the milage into the new cluster. But I had a completely different problem than you have.

 

[02explorer04]

my 02 XLS does the samething. I either thump the cover or hit the top of the dash. Mine only does it if I have not driven it for a couple days.

 

[Bucksnort]

I have the same problem w/ my 02 xlt 74,000 miles-I think- Can't really see it. How hard is it to take the dash apart to get to the odometer?

 

[BrooklynBay]

Welcome to this forum! I have the same problem. On mine, it is related to the dimmer. Try to adjust it. That is the part that makes the dashboard lights brighter until the dome light comes on.

 

[Bucksnort]

I've moved the dimmer switch up and down and it dims and makes it brighter, but it's as though there's lights out. When the headlights are on I can't see anything. Any suggestions??

 

[BrooklynBay]

You said that some lights are out. Pull out the cluster, and replace the defective light bulbs. I've done this a few times in my vans. They have mostly 194 bulbs, and some other ones that are a little smaller.

 

[Bottomlesspit]

I believe I know what's going on and have the answer for you guys. It involves removing the instrument cluster, but does work. Ford seems to have had some soldering problems...specifically COLD soldered joints. I had the problem with my old Expedition and posted about it at a Ford Truck magazine site. I just went back and found my old post and picked up the link.
I hope this info is help to you guys.....
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=196821&highlight=odometer
Ken

 

[deonn]

Ken,

Kudos to you. Great posting regarding this problem!

I have the same "dimming" problem with my odometer on my '02. Looks kind of intricate to remove the instrument cluster though.

Deon

 

[ekoog82]

sounds great!!!! the only question is what size of solder did you use?

 

[Bottomlesspit]

I'm glad it might help some of you.
What size solder? Not sure what you mean, but...
I used a 15watt pencil style soldering iron and very thin piece of 60/40 solder. It almost takes no heat to melt the joint, believe me. Just barely touch that specific point and the solder will wick very fast. Yeah, taking out the instrument cluster is the hard part, but really not too hard, just time consuming.
There used to be a GREAT how-to thread on this site...I used it 2 yrs ago to help install white-faced guages. It was step by step with pictures. Using that guide it only took me about 1/8 the time it would have without the help. Very helpful thread. Hope someone can dig it up for you all.
Ken

 

[BrooklynBay]

When he was asking what size solder you used, he was asking about the diameter, or gauge of the solder. The thinner the solder, the faster it will melt. The more surface area you have, the more of a heat sink you will have to dissipate heat. Here is a link that discusses various types of soldering irons, and lets you decide which one is better suited for your needs: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=150348&page=1&pp=20

 

[Bottomlesspit]

Thanks for posting that BBay! I do some basic soldering all the time with my RC model plane gear, but never really learned all the tips and tricks there are.
I figured he wanted to know something like that, so that's why I posted what I USED, not that it was the best. I do know that the cluster is fairly delicate and not much of a heat sink at all.
I hope your links help others to learn about soldering too. Always good info to know.
Ken

 

[Bucksnort]

I was able to take my dash apart pretty easily w/the help of that link. I found that the solders on the back of my speedo board above the plug-in for the message center were loose. I went out and bought a Weller soldering gun kit(pencil style) at Home depot for 15 bucks and walla....fixed. Now I have odemeter lights again. Dash dissasembly was a bit time consuming though, but doable.

 

[Bottomlesspit]

Unreal, that's so cool you got yours fixed. I took apart my Expedition to do the fix, but I'm not too sure about the Explorer. I would like to install a Mounty panel.
I can't believe Ford is still having solder control problems. Seems like it should be an easy fix for them.
How did you find the bad soldered area on your panel? What did they look like?
Thanks for posting your results...nothing better than a great success story!
Ken

 

[BrooklynBay]

Most likely, it was a cold solder joint. That is when the solder joint didn't properly melt, and adhere to the copper foil traces. If you use a little soldering paste, heat the contact to the correct temperatue, and use the correct solder (alloy mixture, and gauge), you shouldn't have a problem.