arco777
Explorer Addict
- Joined
- April 6, 2008
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- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 1994 Explorer 2dr 4x4
Just completed a 2nd gen disc rear axle swap into my first gen (1994). Some of my notes, for reference. This post is just informational.
The donor disc axle I used was from a 2WD 1998 model Explorer. Mine is a 1994 with 4 wheel ABS.
Used a 1995 Explorer master cylinder; a remanufactured A1 Cardone 13-2695. Used my old reservoir. The 13-2695 is the style you need and has just the ports you need. Direct fit, no booster pushrod modification required. I note the internal depth of the MC's pushrod receiver is shallower, which is why extending the pushrod slightly with a stock MC would have similar results. I have read that the stock MC is set up for disc/drums, so the timing or proportion would be off if you did a disc swap with the stock MC. Not sure if this is true but to be safe I used the 95 style MC and it was cheap anyways.
You will probably end up needing at least two large bottles of brake fluid for this swap! I almost needed a third.
For the rear brakes, I didn't change a thing. The second gen main rear brake hose attaches at the exact same point (rear frame rail mounted bracket) as the first gen, so there's no need to change any brake lines.
Parking brake cable attached the same as stock. I notched the bracket, cut my cables and re-attached them using ferrules to save time.
All bleeder screws were replaced. Rears are Dorman 13901 (3/8"), or 12701 if you want Speed Bleeders, which I used. Makes it really easy to bleed brakes by yourself. Fronts were listed as the same part number, BUT mine were different! Ended up using Dorman 13906, or 12706 for Speed Bleeder on the front. My front calipers are reman'd Ford ones so when they were swapped in I think a larger bleeder than stock was used.
For the ABS issue, I didn't bother bleeding anything but the calipers and a bench bleed of the MC. I disconnected the ABS fuses and relays when replacing the MC. I don't plan to ever re-install them unless I want to spend $$$ on the Ford service tool to run the ABS pump for bleeding, and the stock ABS system is terrible anyways. My thinking is that the ABS controller valves only open when the key is turned on, so if it stays closed during the MC swap it should stay bypassed until it is powered up again. Again, I don't plan to power it up, to save money and bleeding hassle.
Ultimately, pedal feel is about the same as stock. I can feel the improved stopping power, and the front to rear bias feels good.
Any questions, just ask
The donor disc axle I used was from a 2WD 1998 model Explorer. Mine is a 1994 with 4 wheel ABS.
Used a 1995 Explorer master cylinder; a remanufactured A1 Cardone 13-2695. Used my old reservoir. The 13-2695 is the style you need and has just the ports you need. Direct fit, no booster pushrod modification required. I note the internal depth of the MC's pushrod receiver is shallower, which is why extending the pushrod slightly with a stock MC would have similar results. I have read that the stock MC is set up for disc/drums, so the timing or proportion would be off if you did a disc swap with the stock MC. Not sure if this is true but to be safe I used the 95 style MC and it was cheap anyways.
You will probably end up needing at least two large bottles of brake fluid for this swap! I almost needed a third.
For the rear brakes, I didn't change a thing. The second gen main rear brake hose attaches at the exact same point (rear frame rail mounted bracket) as the first gen, so there's no need to change any brake lines.
Parking brake cable attached the same as stock. I notched the bracket, cut my cables and re-attached them using ferrules to save time.
All bleeder screws were replaced. Rears are Dorman 13901 (3/8"), or 12701 if you want Speed Bleeders, which I used. Makes it really easy to bleed brakes by yourself. Fronts were listed as the same part number, BUT mine were different! Ended up using Dorman 13906, or 12706 for Speed Bleeder on the front. My front calipers are reman'd Ford ones so when they were swapped in I think a larger bleeder than stock was used.
For the ABS issue, I didn't bother bleeding anything but the calipers and a bench bleed of the MC. I disconnected the ABS fuses and relays when replacing the MC. I don't plan to ever re-install them unless I want to spend $$$ on the Ford service tool to run the ABS pump for bleeding, and the stock ABS system is terrible anyways. My thinking is that the ABS controller valves only open when the key is turned on, so if it stays closed during the MC swap it should stay bypassed until it is powered up again. Again, I don't plan to power it up, to save money and bleeding hassle.
Ultimately, pedal feel is about the same as stock. I can feel the improved stopping power, and the front to rear bias feels good.
Any questions, just ask
