Do I need to replace my calipers?

[tojan19]

Last week I did the front brakes on 06 V8 4x4. The brakes were getting spongy and I figured that it just needed a bleed since the fluid was still original at 150k. My bad. Well it turned out that one of the pins on the drivers side was completely siezed so only the passenger side was working. I was surprised because the steering wasn't pulling at all.

So new fluid, pads, rotors, and slide pins. I cleaned out the brackets well and lubed the new pins with high temp grease. I had no problem pushing back in the pistons on the drivers side but the passenger side was a *****, especially one of the two pistons. I just use a big C Clamp and one of the old pads to get the pistons pushed back in. Brakes are working a lot better but a few times when letting off the pedal I've heard a groaning and I'm wondering if that caliper is hanging up a bit.

Think I should just change out that caliper or both? What calipers have you used. I don't want to get ones with phenolic pistons.

 

[Rcflyer330]

I have read that you should do both calipers at the same time (honestly i dont know of anybody that does). For brand i could not tell you. Unless you go strait to the dealer i am pretty shure you will get a reman unit

 

[thebrakeman]

If you change pads or rotors on 1 side, you should also change the other side.
I have heard mixed opinions on whether the same holds for a caliper assembly. Theoretically, if the housing is stiffer or more flexible on the new caliper, they could behave differently under moderate to high pressure, and create some pulling on the stiffer side. In reality, most overseas/aftermarket suppliers these days use high-end optical 3D scanners to rip off the original supplier's design, to create an identical cast & machined part.

For this particular issue, if you know that the 1 caliper was locked up, there is likely some corrosion, or other buildup that simply needs to be cleaned. Consider a rebuild kit for the offending caliper. If you don't feel like doing that sort of work, and the calipers aren't that expensive, changing just the 1 is probably fine. If they are pretty cheap, and you want to be sure, change them both.

 

[Big Z]

I'd just change the one caliper. Use the same piston type as you have now (if they're phenolic, replace with phenolic)

 

[swshawaii]

So new fluid, pads, rotors, and slide pins. I cleaned out the brackets well and lubed the new pins with high temp grease.

I don't want to get ones with phenolic pistons.

Unless there's another caliper that fits, you don't have a choice. Appears OEM calipers have phenolic pistons.

Regardless, your new pads probably wouldn't fit, phenolic and steel piston bores and pad clips are different sizes.

http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,2006,explorer,4.6l+v8,1432151,brake/wheel+hub,caliper,1704?a=Referer+www.google.com+URL+/

 

[beauboy]

Lots of good input here, but it really all depends on what kind of spendable cash you have. Reman calipers shouldn't really be that expensive, especially if you just get genuine OEM replacement calipers. Considering the time it will take and bleeding, you should be done in no time. Me? I'd just replace both with OEM style and not have to worry about it again for at least 4 years or so!

Just my two cents.

 

[StevenStebo]

Always do BOTH wheels per axle. You WILL need calipers all the way around and choose Phenolic pistons as factory specs. Bleed the green brake fluid out also and replace it with fresh fluid. I discovered this during a panic stop situation where it would NOT stop. I had to replace all 4 stuck calipers. Truck stopped fine tooling around town, then almost died/crashed when I REALLY had to use the brakes...

 

[StevenStebo]

There is a TSB on dragging calipers for these trucks. Replace all 4 if you haven't already. Remans are fine, use phenolic if you wanna keep them quiet!