Do you keep 4wd on "4wd low, 4wd auto or 2wd" ?

[Vikram]

From what I understand, with 4wd auto you are going in 2wd, but when the wheels start to slip it engages 4wd. So is that what you should keep it at? And 4wd low is for off-roading?

 

[poker4me007]

Auto is for dry pavement ( used most of the time), 4x4 high for snow, 4x4 low for off roading...
Don't drive around on dry pavement in 4x4...

 

[XLTrunner]

Auto does not mean it's still in true 2WD until needed. There is a small percentage (described to be between 4-8%) of power directed to the front wheels at all times in this mode. While it is safe to drive dry pavement in this mode (later models gave you no choice), personally, I'd keep it in 2WD on a normal basis. Less wear and tear on the driveline/transfer case. I live in MN and only switched to Auto on my '95 when the roads were snow/ice covered (which living in a major metro area where they use copious amounts of road chemical, wasn't as often as you'd think for up here in the Northland). Truly wish my '98 still offered the 2WD option without having to do the infamous "Brown Wire" mod. They do recommend shifting to Auto and 4LO periodically if you will normally be driving in 2WD just to keep the shift motor and components inside the transfer case "loose".

Don't forget the cardinal rule to keep all four tires the same make, size, tread depth and air pressure to avoid stressing and eventually damaging the transfer case if you do use the Auto mode on a daily basis.

 

[96eb96]

2wd mode on the 95/96 should be used when there are no slippery conditions. It is awesome because the transfer case solenoid, differential, and even the 1/2shafts aren't being stressed. It actually disconnects one front axle and acts like a RWD car. Many F150s to this day have a similar mode and hardware.

Auto is great for snowy/low traction conditions, clutch engages based on rear wheel spin. Later models have this mode instead of 2wd above. The center position is 4HI, which is the clutch engaged at 100%. Only for slippery conditions or offroad.

4wd low is when you really get stuck, but like others say it is good to exercise it a few times a year, because there is electromechanical action that could seize or have issues if never used. You should never drive with it on dry pavement, just switch in and drive a few feet in a straight line to exercise it.

 

[Vikram]

Auto does not mean it's still in true 2WD until needed. There is a small percentage (described to be between 4-8%) of power directed to the front wheels at all times in this mode. While it is safe to drive dry pavement in this mode (later models gave you no choice), personally, I'd keep it in 2WD on a normal basis. Less wear and tear on the driveline/transfer case. I live in MN and only switched to Auto on my '95 when the roads were snow/ice covered (which living in a major metro area where they use copious amounts of road chemical, wasn't as often as you'd think for up here in the Northland). Truly wish my '98 still offered the 2WD option without having to do the infamous "Brown Wire" mod. They do recommend shifting to Auto and 4LO periodically if you will normally be driving in 2WD just to keep the shift motor and components inside the transfer case "loose".

Don't forget the cardinal rule to keep all four tires the same make, size, tread depth and air pressure to avoid stressing and eventually damaging the transfer case if you do use the Auto mode on a daily basis.

Nice, I live in MN too!

2wd mode on the 95/96 should be used when there are no slippery conditions. It is awesome because the transfer case solenoid, differential, and even the 1/2shafts aren't being stressed. It actually disconnects one front axle and acts like a RWD car. Many F150s to this day have a similar mode and hardware.

Auto is great for snowy/low traction conditions, clutch engages based on rear wheel spin. Later models have this mode instead of 2wd above. The center position is 4HI, which is the clutch engaged at 100%. Only for slippery conditions or offroad.

4wd low is when you really get stuck, but like others say it is good to exercise it a few times a year, because there is electromechanical action that could seize or have issues if never used. You should never drive with it on dry pavement, just switch in and drive a few feet in a straight line to exercise it.

Right on, I notice that in 4wd auto my "4wd" light comes on in the dash. Is that normal or should it only come on when it gets triggered?

 

[UtahX]

I leave mine on Auto.

 

[poker4me007]

From what I understand, with 4wd auto you are going in 2wd, but when the wheels start to slip it engages 4wd. So is that what you should keep it at? And 4wd low is for off-roading?

I forgot your switch is labeled differently, your 2wd is where my auto is...This is what my switch looks like...

 

[96eb96]

Nice, I live in MN too!



Right on, I notice that in 4wd auto my "4wd" light comes on in the dash. Is that normal or should it only come on when it gets triggered?

Perfectly normal to have 4wd light always on when you move the switch to auto. If you have a scan tool you would see that the system always applies a few percentages of lockup to the clutch and a bit of torque to the front. It is priming itself if/when wheels spin, so technically you are in 4wd.

If you move to low it will indicate 4wd low. Must step on the brake and be in neutral to switch. If the system fails you can start/restart the truck with the switch in 2wd, it will try to force the transfercase to the default position. When you activate 2wd low the shift motor moves and pushes a shift fork to engage a low range gearset. That is the clunk you feel. If the contacts on the shift motor are bad(which are used to determine position), the system can get confused and blink the dash 4wd indicators. In between 2wd and 4wd is a Neutral position, which is for towing your explorer behind a camper. The dealer could actually activate this feature. If it gets stuck at that point, it could be a problem!