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Donate to Save Dannyboy's life...cage time


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Elite Explorer
Moderator Emeritus
February 16, 2001
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City, State
43°48′48″N 91°13′59″W
Year, Model & Trim Level
91 4 do'

After seeing quotes like this around here

"After watching Tom R's rig go over, and then inspecting the cage and finding no buckling, and no deformation of the weld in plates, or the sheet metal it was welded onto, I don't really see a problem with just welding them in. I really don't think you will get a more severe roll than that the way we wheel. I could see doing something like that tie in kit, if I was DannyBoy."

"Danny Boy is by far the craziest one out there. Crawling up a vertical wall to climb over it. I did fallow him through a few things but I had to stop because I know I would break my rig if I tried."

"That was definitely a fun ride. If i can't drive, i want somebody like you to ride with!"

"However I'm glad Danny siad his driving has stayed the same, if he said he calmed down I'd be scared"

Comments like these and bringing a very special girl with me on wheeling trips (who encourages my driving style and loves to go fast), plus the idea of building my truck for some BITD in the future spurred me to drop off my first deposit on my roll cage.

Simple point, I always pushed it crawling or getting over an obstacle, but in the last year I've done as much wheeling over 40mph as I've done in low range. Pictures, stories, and most importantly comments by a few close friends on this board made me decide to cage....and don't "F" around when I do it. I've got a great life and I'm not going to spare it for one run down a wash.

So if you're going to do it, Do it right!

Fully ripping out every peice of my interior, headliner, door trim, seats, carpet, DASH.

Full cage built to pass race inspection tied into frame

4 racing seats tied into cage

Aluminum dash

Some BIG ASS shocks coming through the floor in the rear

It's possible the cage may go all the way to the radiator.

In the build I am going to "anticipate" using fiberglass bedsides from the John Swift race truck if....or I mean when my body is trashed.

I am going to figure out a way to save the radio, push button 4wd buttons, and maybe the heater (a/c isn't working) but they can go if they need to.

I don't have a clue how to weld, but I showed my fab guy pics of my truck jumping and he was saying we need to build for extreme. Here's his buggy....this prolly won't be very cheap.

I refuse to drive the truck until this cage gets done, even on the road for fear of getting jinxed.


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From seeing your problem solving skeelz and hearing you talk at the last T-haven, sounds like you've got the knowledge and ingenuity to design/build your own cage.

So I say you acquire/borrow/purchase/steal a welder and a bender and let the juices floooow.

Go for it!!! Then you can go balls to the wall on the trails and not have to worry at all. Cages arent cheap to build at all, if i ever get my explorer to that point i know mine will run about 2k for a complete cage front to rear.

I need to get one too, since I left you in the dust down the wash... :p: :D

There are a few of those quotes about me floating around the site too. :thumbsup:

I'll be stoked to see this thing when it's done. I'm waiting to hack my body before I cage it since I don't know exactly what it will look like or how much I'll be hacking off. Lord knows I can't afford building a cage twice.

hey dannyboy, want me to draw you up some triangles? I know some sweet cage tricks...

I can see cage party 2.0 happing here:D:p:

and the cages were actually pretty cheap for us to build..just time consuming. All the tube for 5 cages was under a thousand bucks. of corse that is 3 explorers, a reg cab ranger and a zuk:rolleyes:

yo guys were just using dom though right?

4130 of course!

no we used mild steel .120 wall I think:scratch: We figured it will be good for a roll or two, by then the body will be so trashed that you'll just want to cut the top and start over or get a new body:rolleyes:

4130 of course!
We tend to save what little chromium/molybdenum alloy we can afford for axle shafts :D -- since these axle shafts just cant seem to handle the stresses very well.

But to be a little bit more serious (without going overboard), chromoly is hardly used in our off-roading because of its high cost not only in materials, but also in normalizing the heat-effect zone (it becomes very brittle around the welded area). The required normalization heat process (which in itself costs uber $$) is why chromoly is typically only used in full tubular chassis vehicles where there are no body panels and other components to worry about.

When putting a cage in a full body, yes, you could use DOM - but using HREW will give you just as much strength inside, since the body will absorb a lot of the impact. I look at a cage inside of an Explorer as a throw away - chances are if you hit hard enough to dent the cage, the rest of the truck is FUBAR'd.

whoa whoa whoa! slow down egghead! (simpsons halloween episode reference) I know chromoly is considered "brittle" at the joints when compared to the relatively elastic properties of mild steel, but when used in a full cage with suspension tied into the cage, it does result in a much better ride. i guess i'm just more used to roll cages being tied into engine cages, suspension mounts, etc.

isn't 4130 required for race standards? i thought thats what i heard, that you had to have tg welded 4130 cage for score. but yeah, "normalization" sucks about it.

ummm so is there gonna be a cage party 2.0? :D

sounds pretty good danny, wish i could do the same

ok, maybe that was just score, bitd

Of course, the weird thing about chromoly (or most "alloys" for that matter), is that they're not even rally race legal under the world's largest racing sanctioning body :D

From the FIA's Article 283 for Rally cars (top of page 16):

"cold drawn seamless unalloyed carbon steel"


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too much, no race truck for me