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i'll keep my eyes open for seats!

so are you going for some sort of class 7? (7s, 7sx, 7200?) or the 300 class? since you still have coil spring set up in front, a stock class would be the closest reach. im not too sure about what all the classes are.

honestly, if your pulling your rear shock mounts out, you should try to save it so i can get it from you :D im planning to build something kinda like yours and josh s's rear end
 



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yeah, we can work something out on that rear setup, it is bolt on.

As for class, I know I'm too built for stock, and Best in the desert has some strange rules about "fiberglass can be used, but vehicle must look like it did year of production" meaning my 2000 front conversion would rule it out.

I read up a bit on Whiplash Racing's website and it looks like if I were to do anything like I am speaking it would be there in the Sportsmans class. It's cheap and local.
 






i've been running ideas on how to set up my back end. but if you do get rid of your shock mounts, heck they just bolt in. almost no work/designing/figuring out for me!


when i've seen stock class trucks, they were way more built thatn yours. i think some have three link rear ends. your truck is almost a stock class truck. just needs some extended stock radius arms and shorter limit straps (limit i think is 12" travel)

ok well while i was writting this, i looked up the MORE 7s class rules. forget that stuff!!!!!!! i must have been thinking of 7sx or something. cause you can't even cut/modify the i-beams at all!!!

maybe 1450 would be a good class?


idk, racing specs get crazy :confused:
 






1450 is a cool class but remember its a sportsman class. no payouts for winning. Just pay your money and have fun, if you win you get bragging rights.

R.J the guy building my ex does some killer setup's with beams. And he's very very well priced compared with the big "shops".

and Danny if you wanna run Radflo shocks let me know i can see what pricing i can get them for.
 






no offense to you carlover, but i've heard negative things about radflo. :rolleyes:

ill have to check out your fab guy though
 


















i've heard radflo's have gotten better and more people are starting to run them and like them.

but what i heard was little stuff like the hoses messing up. im not too sure, but the story i was hearing was that a really cheap guy, like one of those guys that run there tires to the wires and just doesn't spend money on anything that he doesn't have to, took his radflos off cause he was having to mant problems with em.
 












pics?
 


















no I didn't look at engines. I spent a bunch of time quizzing the guys selling seats and the Radflo booth, then I found the beer vendor which blurred the last part of the night. Most of the rock rigs are so small and overbuilt to competition standard, it's like the industry doesn't care to build a truck to hit the trails and have fun, it's all prerunner or full size superduty street queen with the exception of Jeep wrangler stuff.

I guess that's nothing new for us Explorer Owners, then we build our rigs and with or without a Solid Front Axle we can go the same places a Jeep goes.
 












You running stock seats? How about door panels?

Im running ranger seats up front which are close to stock.

My drivers door pannel is off but the rest are on. All interior plastic was added back.

I wont be running stock seats much longer. Got a set from a friend that are plastic/composite with vynal covers for cleaning.
 












O, and i was wondering, suppose you do roll your truck and those Swift fiberglass panels get crushed, is there any way to get new ones made?
 






O, and i was wondering, suppose you do roll your truck and those Swift fiberglass panels get crushed, is there any way to get new ones made?
With enough $$, anything can be made :D
 






as for the panels, if I was smart I would make a mold for those panels. It's something I learned in boat building. first you make what you want to have(a hull or in this case some bedsides) and call it a plug, then you make a mirror image of it with fiberglass, you reinforce it and this is your mold. You keep this in a nice place for when you need more. Then you make more glass panels as you need them. I learned a lot from the boat building factories I have visited. Fiberglass done right is almost the exact opposite process of metal body work. The first layer is the gelcoat, the last layer is the strength.

I should make a plug, then make IZwack some bedsides and have his rig go under the knife.



As for progress, I've gotten some headway. Truck is officially in the shop. Progress pics will go here by John. http://hunteroffroad.com/huntersfor...D=8e3e88bdf1265133898c9aa96a865066&topic=22.0


Matt, thanks for the tip on those 3.Oh's I wish I saw that sooner, I called the guy 2 nights ago after I found them on my own and he says he has a buyer lined up. IMO until you have cash in hand they are for sale, but he had a different theory. I'm going to hound him again tomorrow.

And RJ, sorry to say, but I was suprised how much the first and 2nd gen bodies have changed. You are not going to be able to hide your cage like FAT CAT's rig. We don't have that gap in the body to stick the tube.
 

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Dannyboy, one request...get something to replace those handles on the doors in the back. With you in the pilot seat, passengers need something to hold onto for dear life. :) I'm really lookin forward to seeing the progress of this truck.
 






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