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DONT WANT AUTO 4 Wheel

SO i bought a relay and a lighted switch to wire up the brown wire... but for know i just cut the brown wire and taped it off to see wut happened. and the Auto 4wd does not engage. But when i put it in 4x4 HIGH it doesnt not engage either.... SO tomorrow im gonna finish the project and wire in the switch and relay!!!!
 



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Where was the easiest place to find the wire? Pics would be great when you mount that relay.
 






the easiest place to get to the wire is under the carpet in the front passenger seat
 






That brown wire is fat for a reason....

If you use a switch, it needs to be rated for about 30amps. I know, that is a huge switch- so I suggest using a relay. If you use a small switch and try to use 4wd, you'll starve the electric clutch in the TC for current and cause it to wear out very fast from not fully engaging and slipping. And on top of that, your switch may melt.

I measured the current... it's less than 7A. The switch should be sized accordingly, but 30A is overkill IMHO.

I never realized anyone went on to complete this mod on the 3rd gens. I may need to amend the Comprehensive BWM write-up to include the 3rd gens. :)

edit: Just realized I had the pics already... guess I just never got back around to updating the thread. I'll see what I can do this weekend.
 






my 10 amp switch works great ;)
 






I measured the current... it's less than 7A. The switch should be sized accordingly, but 30A is overkill IMHO.

I never realized anyone went on to complete this mod on the 3rd gens. I may need to amend the Comprehensive BWM write-up to include the 3rd gens. :)

edit: Just realized I had the pics already... guess I just never got back around to updating the thread. I'll see what I can do this weekend.


I measured a 3rd gen and it was 22amps, but now that I think about it, I had to send my meter in for calibration shortly afterwards so it could be off. What size fuse does does the circuit use, the switch should be rated higher than the fuse is.
 






I measured a 3rd gen and it was 22amps.


Interesting.... Wonder why they upped the juice to it if the clutch coil is the same part? I stand corrected.

edit: after your edit:
I think we need to re-measure a 3rd gen before the jury rules on this one. I was looking at the schematics while you were editing your reply... It's not an easy answer... the TCCC is controlled by the 4wd control module, and the 4wd control module has multiple sources of power, some or all of which could feed different portions of its outputs. I have no idea which one particular fuse may feed the TCCC. It would *appear* to be a 15A fuse as that's the only fuse listed on that particular page, but there are no less than 8 other power inputs (two of which are 20A each) to it that could be tied in somehow. Without a specific breakdown of which power inputs power which outputs, there's just no way to know.

-Joe

third edit: Had a thought: Measure voltage at the brown wire: Key on, engine idling, 4wd set to 4high or 4low. Pull fuse #23 (15A) from the CJB. If that kills the power at the brown wire, I suspect the 15A fuse is what powers that portion of it. Again, can't say for sure, but it may verify my interpretation of the schematics.

-Joe
 






The wire is under the passenger side door sil plate...

100_0489.jpg

100_0490.jpg

100_0491.jpg

100_0492.jpg


There are two bundles of wires there. My wire was in the smaller bundle wrapped in black tape. I used butt connectors and ran them to a relay, which I hid under this pannel below the fuel pump reset switch...


100_0479-1.jpg



Then I ran the wire to my switch behind the glovebox to the back of the radio. I powered my switch off of the "switched power" to my headunit, and mounted the switch to my storage pocket under the headunit...(Not my hand. My two year old son is trying to turn the radio on to hear the Wiggles....ack!)

100_0478.jpg




Hope the pics help:thumbsup:

TsaktuO
 






thats a nice switch i might have to swap that one out for my rocket-launcher-style switch ;)
 












so i wired up my switch and relay today and it does not work. for 1 the colors of wires to the link are diff from the wire colors i have. I have Yellow and blue across from eahc other and black and white across from each other.
Now i ran the the switch, ground to ground 12v acc and one to the relay and i wired in the black and white wires on the relay to the sliced brown wire. The only thing the relay does is tick and make weird nosies... anybodfy have any ideas???
 






But now he can only fit two, not three boxes of Newports in that spot. :p:

Great pics TsaktuO!!

:D I'm working on quiting, so the less space the better:thumbsup:

so i wired up my switch and relay today and it does not work. for 1 the colors of wires to the link are diff from the wire colors i have. I have Yellow and blue across from eahc other and black and white across from each other.
Now i ran the the switch, ground to ground 12v acc and one to the relay and i wired in the black and white wires on the relay to the sliced brown wire. The only thing the relay does is tick and make weird nosies... anybodfy have any ideas???


Well if the relay is clicking then it sounds like you have the power from the switch (tab 85) and the ground (tab 86) correct. Do you have one side of the brown wire connected to tab 30, and one side connected to tab 87a?

TsaktuO
 






SO i rewired it and all that and it now works like a Champ!!!
 






yea whoever showed picks of where ur switches were i thank that person cuz i rerouted my switches for my running lights and fog lights and theyre in a perfect spot completely out of the way... ill post pics soon

and one question... is it bad to have silverstar bulbs wired up straight to my running lights and back to the switch with no relay?? cuz that wire gets pretty hot and it melted the rubber piece covering it... i would most likely not want a fire starting
 






why would you want to disengage the auto 4x4?
 






why would you want to disengage the auto 4x4?


For a number of reasons....

1) I want to determine when I need 4wd. Control freaks like me don't want some engineer behind a desk to determine when I need it and when I'd rather let the tire(s) spin.

2) Not comfortable with the clunky engagement of the transfer case shock-loading the front drivetrain. Yes, Ford did some pretty extensive full-power testing. However, duplicating that testing in the real world on a vehicle with hundreds of thousands of miles on it isn't doing it any favors.

3) 2 wheel drive LOW range. Good for tight corners on the trail... eliminates the need to disengage low range to make a tight turn.

4) ?? Can't seem to think of any more offhand....

-Joe
 






For a number of reasons....

1) I want to determine when I need 4wd. Control freaks like me don't want some engineer behind a desk to determine when I need it and when I'd rather let the tire(s) spin.

2) Not comfortable with the clunky engagement of the transfer case shock-loading the front drivetrain. Yes, Ford did some pretty extensive full-power testing. However, duplicating that testing in the real world on a vehicle with hundreds of thousands of miles on it isn't doing it any favors.

3) 2 wheel drive LOW range. Good for tight corners on the trail... eliminates the need to disengage low range to make a tight turn.

4) ?? Can't seem to think of any more offhand....

-Joe

How about fishtailing!!! :thumbsup:

Oh, and saving gas.
 






Same reason why people swap in a manual transfer case over their existing eletric case :D
 



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Personally, in a vehicle with as short a wheelbase as my Sport, I don't want to fishtail. It's pretty difficult to recover it because it snaps back so quickly. However, yes, that *can* be a reason for some. Also, doing so causes excessive and unnecessary slippage in the transfer case, which isn't good for it.

As for saving gas, as I've stated in numerous other posts, there is no fuel savings to be had by doing the BWM.

-Joe
 






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