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Door banging

Dan R

Active Member
Joined
July 6, 2011
Messages
55
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6
City, State
Santa Clara, CA
Year, Model & Trim Level
1993 Ranger 3L RWD
As the electric window in the driver's door comes to the top I hear a banging from inside the door.
Something sounds to be loose/binding.
What should I be looking for?
Thanks,
Dan
 



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Another possibility: if it is not a track/slider problem, it might be that the bushings in your window motor are failing. IF you take interior door panel off, and do not find a structural problem with your regulator, you might consider replacing the power window motor bushings.

Good luck.
 






Thanks guys. It sounds literally like someone is knocking on the door or that it is falling off.
It look like the bushing are a likely culprit.
Where would I find replacements? What size?
While I am there, I plan to change the door speakers. Any suggestions for inexpensive replacements?
Dan
 






Dan,

After you take the door panel off, the issue will probably be more clear. You still might find that the window regulator (aka track/slider) is the culprit. The regulator is riveted inside the metal door skin. The power window motor is bolted to the regulator.

If the regulator is not clearly a problem, the window motor bushings might be the culprit. The power window motor bushings, which act as the "transmission"/bufffer between the window motor and the regulator, are inside the window motor. These get reduced to useless nylon shavings over time. The window motor can be unbolted from the regulator without removing the regulator, but you will need to drill a small access hole to get a socket on one of the three bolts. Or you can remove the window motor by drilling out all the rivets and sliding out the entire regulator assembly.

Power window bushings can be found in the "Help" section of auto parts stores. "Help" makes generic replacements for a number of items. The three small nylon capsules, which are the bushings, will probably not fit your window motor without filing or grinding or sanding them down a little. This is not that difficult. The bushings cost about 7 dollars for a set. You can also replace the entire window motor if necessary, which I think cost about 35 dollars.

I am not sure about the best and cheapest replacement for the speakers, but the speakers are not a real common size (something like 6x8?). Maybe start with Internet search.

Note: There is very helpful information about removal of the power window motor, especially where to drill the access hole for separate removal, in this Forum (use the "Search" function) and on YouTube. You should also be able to find more information in these sites about replacing the window regulator, and about replacing the window bushings.

Let us know how it goes. And good luck with your projects.
 






Dan,

After you take the door panel off, the issue will probably be more clear. You still might find that the window regulator (aka track/slider) is the culprit. The regulator is riveted inside the metal door skin. The power window motor is bolted to the regulator.

If the regulator is not clearly a problem, the window motor bushings might be the culprit. The power window motor bushings, which act as the "transmission"/bufffer between the window motor and the regulator, are inside the window motor. These get reduced to useless nylon shavings over time. The window motor can be unbolted from the regulator without removing the regulator, but you will need to drill a small access hole to get a socket on one of the three bolts. Or you can remove the window motor by drilling out all the rivets and sliding out the entire regulator assembly.

Power window bushings can be found in the "Help" section of auto parts stores. "Help" makes generic replacements for a number of items. The three small nylon capsules, which are the bushings, will probably not fit your window motor without filing or grinding or sanding them down a little. This is not that difficult. The bushings cost about 7 dollars for a set. You can also replace the entire window motor if necessary, which I think cost about 35 dollars.

I am not sure about the best and cheapest replacement for the speakers, but the speakers are not a real common size (something like 6x8?). Maybe start with Internet search.

Note: There is very helpful information about removal of the power window motor, especially where to drill the access hole for separate removal, in this Forum (use the "Search" function) and on YouTube. You should also be able to find more information in these sites about replacing the window regulator, and about replacing the window bushings.

Let us know how it goes. And good luck with your projects.


Thank you, Mr. Alligator!
 






While I am there, I plan to change the door speakers. Any suggestions for inexpensive replacements?
Dan
the speaker size for all 4 doors in a 1st gen explorer is 5x7. I got my replacements at walmart, I think they costed about $30 for a set of two- they are "scosche" brand either 2-way or 3-way speakers- and they sound pretty good. no complaints from me there. for another explorer I had- the same size off-brand aftermarket speakers were $10 each at a local mom and pop truck accessories shop. those cheapies also sounded good... maybe shop around for the best deal or best brands if you are picky. but I would definitely go with a 2 or 3 way speaker for the best sound.

I assume you already replaced the factory radio with an aftermarket stereo? if not- walmart has a "receiver" for like $20- it is just a radio. it does not have a CD player, but it does have a USB port, and also an AUX plug-in- so you can use it with your smartphone or even a flash drive with your favorite music. that's what I put in my truck and I love it! it has a large digital display, came with a remote control, and produces amazing sound quality with equalizer control- I couldn't be happier with it- especially for the price of $20.

...in the unfortunate instance you are still using the factory radio, if you replace it you'll need a wiring harness adapter to install a replacement head unit. the harness adapter should be under $20. any of them that match your year model range for your 91-94 explorer, and made for a ford bronco 2, ford ranger, mazda b-series pickup or mazda Navajo- will work with your explorer, if you can find one that says "for ford explorer" on the label.

if you replace your window motor bushings, this would also be a good time to replace your speakers- since the speaker has to come out as part of the procedure of taking out the window motors.
 
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Thanks for the tips. The sound at present isn't that bad. But I am sure that it can be improved. I see deals on 4 speakers, will probably go for that.
I sort of like the vintage head unit. I joke that my friends that I have a cassette deck with an "electronic brain" that can switch to the other side of the cassette when needed! These things are valuable. Restorers use them on their period Mustangs.
I am thinking of getting a Bluetooth cassette adapter; then I can play Pandora from my smartphone.
 






that $20 am/fm receiver at walmart is also Bluetooth ready... I forgot to mention that.... I don't use bluetooth
 






Just a comment - the wiring harness adapter (if you need it) is different depending on whether you have the JBL/premium sound system or not. I'm still using the OEM style AM/FM radio/cassette unit (with an external FM transmitter that uses a memory card to store the music) with the JBL amplified system in my DD. The vehicle isn't all that quiet and my hearing isn't all that good, so it works fine for me.
 






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