avidgamr
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- October 16, 2014
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- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 1995 Ford Explorer
We've all dealt with this I believe but posting my guide for the newbies to their Explorer...
One day all of a sudden your door seems to rattle
and the door ajar light is on. You have a problem
with the door striker 'anti-rattle' bushing. My findings
on my 1995 Ford Explorer XLT (4.0L engine if that matters?)
along with information I've gleamed here and elsewhere
that helped me along the way:
Replacing door striker bolt bushings.
First of all, do NOT mess with the
"Dorman 38424 striker bolt bushing kit"
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...ck=Search_01149_1354542_-1&pt=01149&ppt=C0356
http://www.autozone.com/collision-b...-striker-anti-rattle-kit/730490_888232_13423/
for the doors- it will NOT work for the
doors- I repeat, it will NOT work on the
doors; it's useful only for the two rear hatch bolts.
(You can use the 2 long ones in the package
for the rear hatch if they need replaced).
For the doors, buy the
"Dorman 38445 Door Striker Bolt" from
your local AutoZone
http://www.autozone.com/collision-b.../dorman-door-lock-striker/17363_173040_13488/
or O'Reilly Auto Parts store
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/MTM0/38445/06573.oap
One for each door that needs
repaired... (FYI they presently cost around $8.99
+ tax for each one- which adds up quickly but is
better (IMO) than the alternatives listed below
at the bottom).
Required items for replacing door/lift gate
bushings:
1. 3/8" drive T50 star bit (socket-type recommended-
~$5 at your local auto parts store) and 3/8" drive ratchet.
2. New bushings- "one Dorman 38445 Door
Striker Bolt" for each door that needs fixed.
(doors require bushings that are
7/16" I.D. x 9/16" O.D. x ~3/4" long)
If you have a lift gate that needs replaced,
as I said, buy one "Dorman 38424 striker bolt bushing kit"
and use the long bushings in the kit (discard the
short ones as they are useless, or keep them for another
project another day).
3. Using a pair of scissors, cut a ~one inch strip
off of an 8 1/2" x 11" sheet of paper (1"x11"). I used
it for a "feeler gauge" in the doorway.
First of all, it's recommended to trace around
your striker bolts current location with a
marker- something I didn't do nor think of...
Then remove the striker bolt using the T50 Star Bit.
Once removed unscrew the bolt out of the
reinforcement bracket and washer (and remaining
old bushing parts if applicable-Likely won't
even be any pieces left though...)
Now do the same thing with the new striker bolt
you just bought- remove the bushing from it. The
bushing is the only thing you want from that
package (as I've read the replacement bolt that comes
in the package is softer than the original and
will twist off before the 30 ft-lb torque I've
read it needs). (I just guessed at torque tightness myself)
Now put the new bushing on your old bolt (w/ washer
& re-inforcement bracket) and re-install the new assembly.
If you forgot to mark the old location like I did, just snug the
bolt in place- you need to squat down and eye-ball
the door-to-striker bolt alignment (don't close the door
yet) and adjust as necessary (tap it to move it).
I've found that it can be a little low and it doesn't seem to
cause a problem (shutting the door- unknown in
the long run if it'd prematurely wear down the
bushing or not). Once you think you have it in
the required location, tighten it down
and slowly and carefully close the door-
pushing it through the 'clicks' yourself. You
NEED two clicks or the buzzer/door ajar light
won't turn off! Once click won't do it!
Once you have it so it will shut with two
clicks, I recommend using the strip of paper in
the upper part of the doorway to test that it seals.
You should have some resistance when you attempt
to pull it out of the doorway. (see pics)
I would also do the same with the side of the doorway
to test the seal there:
https://s11.postimg.org/5xqkamg2b/DSC08552.jpg
https://s22.postimg.org/ehycey1ch/DSC08553.jpg
Alternatives:
1. Buy a used one off a junker at your local
junkyard
Con: They are 21+ years old and likely
brittle and won't last long at this point (if you can even
find one)!
2. Buy some 1/2" Pex pipe.
Con: It likely won't last as long as the original bushing/
bushing included in the 38445 kit) (softer plastic)
3. Go to your local Ford dealer.
Con: High probability it's the MOST expensive option!
4. Use a piece of 1/2" rubber or vinyl pipe
over your existing striker bolt.
Con: Again, softer and likely won't last a year. Plus it
could allow rattle since it's not 9/16"?
One day all of a sudden your door seems to rattle
and the door ajar light is on. You have a problem
with the door striker 'anti-rattle' bushing. My findings
on my 1995 Ford Explorer XLT (4.0L engine if that matters?)
along with information I've gleamed here and elsewhere
that helped me along the way:
Replacing door striker bolt bushings.
First of all, do NOT mess with the
"Dorman 38424 striker bolt bushing kit"
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...ck=Search_01149_1354542_-1&pt=01149&ppt=C0356
http://www.autozone.com/collision-b...-striker-anti-rattle-kit/730490_888232_13423/
for the doors- it will NOT work for the
doors- I repeat, it will NOT work on the
doors; it's useful only for the two rear hatch bolts.
(You can use the 2 long ones in the package
for the rear hatch if they need replaced).
For the doors, buy the
"Dorman 38445 Door Striker Bolt" from
your local AutoZone
http://www.autozone.com/collision-b.../dorman-door-lock-striker/17363_173040_13488/
or O'Reilly Auto Parts store
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/MTM0/38445/06573.oap
One for each door that needs
repaired... (FYI they presently cost around $8.99
+ tax for each one- which adds up quickly but is
better (IMO) than the alternatives listed below
at the bottom).
Required items for replacing door/lift gate
bushings:
1. 3/8" drive T50 star bit (socket-type recommended-
~$5 at your local auto parts store) and 3/8" drive ratchet.
2. New bushings- "one Dorman 38445 Door
Striker Bolt" for each door that needs fixed.
(doors require bushings that are
7/16" I.D. x 9/16" O.D. x ~3/4" long)
If you have a lift gate that needs replaced,
as I said, buy one "Dorman 38424 striker bolt bushing kit"
and use the long bushings in the kit (discard the
short ones as they are useless, or keep them for another
project another day).
3. Using a pair of scissors, cut a ~one inch strip
off of an 8 1/2" x 11" sheet of paper (1"x11"). I used
it for a "feeler gauge" in the doorway.
First of all, it's recommended to trace around
your striker bolts current location with a
marker- something I didn't do nor think of...
Then remove the striker bolt using the T50 Star Bit.
Once removed unscrew the bolt out of the
reinforcement bracket and washer (and remaining
old bushing parts if applicable-Likely won't
even be any pieces left though...)
Now do the same thing with the new striker bolt
you just bought- remove the bushing from it. The
bushing is the only thing you want from that
package (as I've read the replacement bolt that comes
in the package is softer than the original and
will twist off before the 30 ft-lb torque I've
read it needs). (I just guessed at torque tightness myself)
Now put the new bushing on your old bolt (w/ washer
& re-inforcement bracket) and re-install the new assembly.
If you forgot to mark the old location like I did, just snug the
bolt in place- you need to squat down and eye-ball
the door-to-striker bolt alignment (don't close the door
yet) and adjust as necessary (tap it to move it).
I've found that it can be a little low and it doesn't seem to
cause a problem (shutting the door- unknown in
the long run if it'd prematurely wear down the
bushing or not). Once you think you have it in
the required location, tighten it down
and slowly and carefully close the door-
pushing it through the 'clicks' yourself. You
NEED two clicks or the buzzer/door ajar light
won't turn off! Once click won't do it!
Once you have it so it will shut with two
clicks, I recommend using the strip of paper in
the upper part of the doorway to test that it seals.
You should have some resistance when you attempt
to pull it out of the doorway. (see pics)
I would also do the same with the side of the doorway
to test the seal there:
https://s11.postimg.org/5xqkamg2b/DSC08552.jpg
https://s22.postimg.org/ehycey1ch/DSC08553.jpg
Alternatives:
1. Buy a used one off a junker at your local
junkyard
Con: They are 21+ years old and likely
brittle and won't last long at this point (if you can even
find one)!
2. Buy some 1/2" Pex pipe.
Con: It likely won't last as long as the original bushing/
bushing included in the 38445 kit) (softer plastic)
3. Go to your local Ford dealer.
Con: High probability it's the MOST expensive option!
4. Use a piece of 1/2" rubber or vinyl pipe
over your existing striker bolt.
Con: Again, softer and likely won't last a year. Plus it
could allow rattle since it's not 9/16"?
