Dreaming of one mean 4.0: The Build up - Creager's 1992 Sport | Page 11 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Dreaming of one mean 4.0: The Build up - Creager's 1992 Sport

That key needs to come out.
 



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Hey man!!! thanks for the pics you sent, that stuff actually is going to help A TON!

So the key comes out somehow? hrmmmmm......... I was kinda wondering that, but i dont see how. It does have kind of a indention on the edge that a screw driver could pry into. Is it just supposed to pop out i guess?
 






Usualy you would just pull or pry on it and tap the shaft with a hammer, maybe a big magnet just to be safe. If you have any trouble just get a chisel and get it out, you can make a new one very easily if anything happens to it.
 






Yea usally the key fits in to notches in both the sprocket and the shaft, and its a ***** but you can knock it out
 






Ahh yes, i got it out. Haha, why dont any of my books just say how to get it out?! hah, all it took was a screwdriver and a mallet. Its a half-moon shaped key, you just gotta get a little leverage on on it from underneith, it pops right out.
 






1) So this thing came out easier then I thought. I still find it interesting that this information is simply no where, i guess its common knowledge?

2) I started getting all the pistons mocked up, as i check for clearences. My book says to use a ring seperator instead of my hand to put the rings on :p So i am about to run to NAPA and see how much it costs to purchase such a tool. Afterwords these things are going in and staying in! haha
 

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Ring seperator make it much easier for you and the rings, I'd say keys are pretty common knowledge, although they are not used nearly as much as they used to be.
 






...okay, why are there ALWAYS 2 sets of pictures on the posts? I don't think I ordered doubles....LOL ;)

Ryan
 






you can see that too? i dont know man, maybe its something in my options
 






Well the first set is like it's linked via a IMG tag....

While the second set has 'Attached Images' above them.

I dunno.

Ryan
 






How's the assembly coming along Creag...hope you're wrapping things up by now?

Yes, the overlap on the 422 is pretty minor....compared to a lot of race or serious street/strip cams it's still fairly mild. Compcams has a custom grind file called the 488 that is very extreme...I don't think they normally stock it though, you'd have to have them make it. I think Doug0904 had it in one of his trucks. Don't think that would be much fun on a DD though.

Pics look great....makes me look forward to doing mine later down the road.

hope you haven't hit too many other bumps in the road in getting this project wrapped up.

Keep up the good work!
 






Sorry for the lack up updates!

I’ve been slowed down this past week with some community service work that I've procrastinated on for a while, but I’ve knocked all that out and I'm back into the garage.

I needed some new hardware for the cam 'thrust-plate,' I can’t find this aftermarket so I had to order them through the dealership. Once I get these and I can button up the bottom end.

Last week or the week before I noticed one of my cam bearings was off-center from the oil-passage, this had me very concerned. The guy I had install the bearings said they were fine, but Vanirs book said it is very critical that these be installed properly. I talked to a few more shops and they all said the same thing my guy did, they can be installed either-way since there is a groove all the way around the back of the bearing. I finally got word from BIRD on 8secsplash.net that the bearings are fine installed the way they are, along as pressurized oil is getting to them.

Depending on when these two $10 screws come in, ill have some good progress to report!

As it is now

- Crank is installed, bearing clearances are perfect
- Pistons/rings are not installed, but all the clearances are good.
- Cam is good to go, I just gotta wait on this hardware so I can button this up.

Everything else is ready to go, I cant think of anything off the top of my head that isn’t ready to be bolted on!
 






ahhhh, Those screws came out to $1.38. Funny how that worked out. I was originally ordering them through a dealership near my house when they told me a dealership about 30 minutes away in Clover, South Carolina that actually had the screws, otherwise i could order them through him for $10 each. I drove down there, expecting to puke up $25 on a set of 17mm screws, when i found the little mom-and-pop dealership. $1.38, cant beat that! Rick Ford was the name of the place if anyone is interested.

The cam is torqued down and good to go. Moly on all the lobes, bearing guard on all the journals, and engine-assembly lube on the shaft gear, and the timing parts. I'll get some pics up tonight. If I can get some help i might try and get the rings in tonight! I'm at work now so i cant do much =P

Pics later.
 






Dont let your intake get like this :p

This is why all the 4.0's ping so horribly, that carbon is caked on! Caked on worse then the mud in the bumper!

So if you are having a pinging/detonation problem, i would suggest checking your lower intake out =)

*Look at the fuel injector boss on the bottom right :eek:
 

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Ahh and the freshly re-surface intake. This is the same ported/matched lower intake from a few pages ago, although this time it has a fresh surface. Check out the welds, i think that should seal a lot better.

I cleaned the hell outta those injectors with laquore, then replaced the o-rings with new felpro stuff.
 

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And the rings are in!

I was quite surprized how easily this was done, besides the fact that ring compresser sure knows how to cut the hell-outta your skin.

I had dad help me a little bit. He was surprized we could still turn the crank with the rings in :D

All my gaps are good and in the right position. I've never put rings on pistons before, dad claims these pistons were made to be easy to get the rings on. Hehe, referring back to his small engine building days, he says lawn-mower rings are harder to put on then this, haha. They make the secondary ring/groove thicker then the top ring, so it won't accidently go into the top groove when you are trying to spread them over the piston. All my gaps are positioned away from each other, on opposite 'corners' of the piston. All the gaps measure out a little on a loose side of specification (bigger gap) which leaves plenty of room for the rings to expand. So i should have no problems here!
 

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The short-block is built!

The Crank, Pistons/rings, Cam, Timing Set, and the Oil-pump assembly are all installed!

I had to throw on a filter to keep oil from draining everywhere after i primed the oil pump.

All that stuff (Pump, pump-drive, and strainer) are only torqued to 160inlbs, which is like 13 ftlbs! I just dont think thats tight enough, but I guess it is. The rods are only tightened to 24ftlbs, that didnt seem right to me either, but this only my first build so Ill just do what the book says!

Next ill be checking the piston-valve clearence and the valve-train geometery. If those things check out, its time to get this sucker FIRED UP!
*!! I hope it starts !!* hehe, it will start.
 

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Everyone can see the pictures above, correct? I didnt realize everyone could see the 'attached images,' so if everyone can see them i think im going to go back and edit some olders posts so you dont see double images everywhere. hehe
 






See the pics, looks awesome! I'm sure you've already thought about it but just make sure you've got plenty of 93 in the tank for that break in procedure ;)

check and double check plug wire to coil pack connections and ensure your coil pack/fuel pump relay are hooked up before you crank 'er over (don't ask me why I mention this :):) )

Lastly you probably want to cycle from OFF to KEY ON ENGINE OFF (KOEO) a few times to let the fuel pump fill the lines and the fuel rail prior to starting it to make sure she's got all the fuel she needs to fire up, i.e., turn it to KOEO until the fuel pump does it's priming and auto-shutoff sequence, then go to OFF, then go back to KOEO, etc. Do this a couple of times.
 



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Even better just turn the key on and bleed it at the fuel rail.
 






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