Dreaming of one mean 4.0: The Build up - Creager's 1992 Sport | Page 6 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Dreaming of one mean 4.0: The Build up - Creager's 1992 Sport

i was getting 16-18 before the rebuild, when the engine was not running cold. That was with NOT feathing the petal... meaning i floored it whenever possible. haha

Do you guys thinking matching the fuel rail to the lower intake would be a good idea? I noticed my ported lower intake is about 1/16" wider in some areas in comparason to the fuel rail. I wanna match it, but i dont think it would be a great idea, Maximum, what did you do?
 



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Creager said:
i was getting 16-18 before the rebuild, when the engine was not running cold. That was with NOT feathing the petal... meaning i floored it whenever possible. haha

ya, I remember 16-18 with LT235's ,and even with 31's, but fat 33's definitely knocked it back a few :p
 






32s/4.56 16-18 (even 19 sometimes)

32s/3.27 12-15 on good days

i dont remember what i got stock haha

Captin, does that M5R1-HD seem any better then the regular m5?

if/when this tranny blows i thought about the HD version, if it shifts any cleaner and is actually any stronger. Looking at the two side by side, i couldnt tell a huge difference... the junk yard did want 200 more for it. I said hell with that, and bought a regular M5 for 100 bucks cheaper (than what the junk-yard wanted) at a machine shop, REMAN'D! haha
 






Creager said:
32s/4.56 16-18 (even 19 sometimes)

32s/3.27 12-15 on good days

i dont remember what i got stock haha

Captin, does that M5R1-HD seem any better then the regular m5?

if/when this tranny blows i thought about the HD version, if it shifts any cleaner and is actually any stronger. Looking at the two side by side, i couldnt tell a huge difference... the junk yard did want 200 more for it. I said hell with that, and bought a regular M5 for 100 bucks cheaper (than what the junk-yard wanted) at a machine shop, REMAN'D! haha

Not sure how it compares with the reg. M5OD, but it does shift nice compared to the TK and mitsu 5spds I've had in Rangers and Bronco IIs. The A4LD was toast, and I didn't want to piss around with it, so I bucked up for the newest 5spd I could find. Premium price, but no complaints. I intend to get another one for my B2, if thats any recommendation... I also run Mobil 1 synth in it, which I HIGHLY recommend. These transmissions are supposed to run quite hot in OD, which I do a lot of, so its peace of mind to have good lube.
 






yep, synthetic mobil 1 ATF is in my tranny, t-case, and power steering haha
 






Update: 03/23/06

Kind of bummed out, missed the Korn concert last night =) oh well, they aren’t what they used to be back in '96 anyway. Finally got most my school work outta the way for the next week or two, so I can focus my attention on this buncha-junk!

One of my buddies got into a pretty bad accident last Friday. They were driving along 160, when they ran off the road a little bit. The driver corrected the steering, when the steering-shaft broke! They went off the road directly into a tree and flipped, or flipped and went into a tree... they are not sure which, haha. He has 8 staples in his cranium at the moment. I took the liberty to replace my drag links, and a new flaming-river steering shaft should be on the way. hehe.

Also a new A/C compressor, accumulator, condenser, and Orifice valve came in the mail yesterday. hehe, I haven’t had AC since maybe a few months after I bought this truck. I also obtained a new power steering pump, pulley, and hoses, other then that I have a new motorcraft water pump, radiator, hoses, and even the thermo-stat housing. haha, there is too much stuff to list, let alone remember, that have waiting to go into this. Basically, this is going to be a completely new truck. All in all I think I've spent $1,000 on un-motor related items, haha. I can’t WAIT to get this sucker back on the road

Stay tuned... more updates with pictures tomorrow
 






I noticed my ported lower intake is about 1/16" wider in some areas in comparason to the fuel rail. I wanna match it, but i dont think it would be a great idea, Maximum, what did you do?

I did all of my porting on the lower side of the lower intake....mostly around the injector bosses. I THINK you can safely port the fuel rail a bit....not 100% sure though. I am not sure that 1/16" would make a real difference anyway other than looking nice and even.
 






damn, so my lower intake is ported more then it needs to be. hrmm. Im thinking im gonna smooth off the squarted edges of the fuel rail, even though it probably wont make a difference. The more i look at it, the fuel injector bosses are more restrictive than anything, the guy who ported mine made that part so freggin thin, im almost scared haha

In the last port on my stock lower intake, there is a dimple that seems to pretrude... the guy who ported my other lower intake grinded that sucker out and filled it in with weld. Looks pretty good. Im very curious how this turns out.

Moving slow as always. No pictures yet. I got the rest of the engine compartment preped and painted. Tonight im going to probably work on getting it all the nick-nacks in order. Probably get the new power steering togeather, paint some more ****. The thing thats holding me back from the engine is the harmonic balancer. I borrowed a puller to pull it, but i need 8mmx1.25 screws that are like 100 millimeters long to be able to fit the puller! All the auto-supply stores sell the right threads, but nothing over like 40mm long. Shoot, home-depot even those bolts in longer sizes then that, like 70 mm long. The puller kit comes with screws that are 80 mm, but they are just bearly too short to fit the puller. I might just end up welding two bolts togeather, haha. But im probably going to try and find a tractor supply or somewhere that specializes in that stuff so i can get the right bolts. I thought about just taking some SAE size bolts that are the right length, and just threading them into the balancer. But i dont feel like wasting it, haha, i've destroyed enough already =).
 






I got a harbor frieght puller for about 12 bucks and work fine. The link is below.

Harbor frieght puller
 






Josh said:
Why not solid lifters? I don't think they make any for our motors though.

Because roller lifters are a HUGE improvement over solid.

And to the question of "what will a bit of dirt stuck in the lifter do they just go up and down"... Debris can stop the inner portion of the lifter from self adjusting to keep proper valve clearance. If you had solid roller lifters with adjustable rockerarms or pushrods you would have a higher performance setup, but you would have to do regular valve lash adjustments.
 






So far I have read the hole thread, and I love it. Keep up the good work Creager, I can't wait for a dyno of this motor. If all goes well I may follow suit in the mean 4.0L build up.
 






haha thanks for the reply guys.

Hey Rick, thats some good info. I put my used lifters in kareosene for a couple days, lets just say it went from clear to black overnight. haha. Fresh lifters are in the mail

Werent roller lifters considered racing parts at one point in time?

Got some more work done last night finally. Engine comparment is 95% done. I just gotta bolt a few more things down, and as you can see in the following pictures, i have a spot or two that needs to be hit surgically with the rattle can =)


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Here is some better pics of the factory cross hatching. Sorry its kinda dirty, i was using the blow gun to clean out those water passages before i took these, hehe.

200k miles, i still cant get over that!
 

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Unclemeat gave me some ideas when he said he would like to see some write up's added to the thread. I'm going to try and make a bunch of mini-write ups for taking apart the short block. I figured most people can take their heads off, maybe they are interested with whats going on below the heads?


Mini-Writeup 03/28/06

Removing the harmonic balancer on the 4.0 OHV

The Kit you will need:
car16.jpg


Although this isn’t a difficult task, it can be tedious one. Ford integrates the harmonic balancer and the pulley on to one unit on this motor. This makes the removal process somewhat of a confusing one for a simple guy like me.

The extra parts:
car12.jpg


- 2x 8Mx1.25x100mm bolts
- Some washers
- any size bolt, not bigger than the harmonic balancer bolt, about 5 inches long.

The main problem starts with the removal kit you may rent from your local auto supply store. The (MAC brand) kit I used didn’t come with bolts long enough to fit the actual puller onto the balancer. Not a problem right? Haha, yeah… you will need to go to a specialty fastener store, or if you are lucky, a good down-home mom-and-pop hardware store that carries the more ‘rarer’ sized bolts. Home-depot, Lowe’s, and AutoZone won’t have what you need.

The bolts that come with the kit look like this:
car18.jpg


Comparaison of your new bolts, and the ones supplied with the kit:
car17.jpg


The threads on the harmonic balancer are 8Mx1.25. You will need two bolts that are 100mm long to fit the puller on to the balancer. The bolts supplied in the kit are 80 mm long, which is barely too short. This is shown below...

car19.jpg


Here it looks with the longer 100mm bolts in place

car20.jpg


You will also need a bolt that is about 5” long, which can be used to press onto. Look closely at the hole in the middle of the balancer, this bolt needs to be small enough to fit down into that hole (without threading into it). You basically are sticking that bolt down into the crank, which the puller will ‘push off of.’ Take a look...

car29.jpg


The bolt I used was originally the ‘vertical bolt’ on the front Dana 35 pumpkin. It doesn’t need to be as large as mine, I thought I needed something thick, but it doesn’t actually take that much force to take this thing off. Anything solid, and long enough will work; the balancer comes off much smoother then you think

Below is what it should look like, you want to get the bolt you're using as an inter-medium between the puller and the crank. In my picture below, my intermediate bolt looks like it’s all the way down in there, to the point where there is no room left between the lip of the pulley, and the head of the bolt. It shouldn’t look like that, (optical illusion?) you should have enough room for the bolt to 'travel down into the crank.'

car30.jpg


Get your puller lined up with your intermediate bolt, and start cranking... this is what you are trying to accomplish.

car32.jpg


...and voila! There it is, pulley and all. You now can start tearing apart the rest of your 4.0!

car13.jpg


* The reinstallation of the harmonic balancer is quite simple. Just remember to REPLACE THE HARMONIC BALANCER BOLT. Josh can tell ya what happends when you don't. This bolt is a Torque to Yield bolt, so bascially its stretches out and can only be used once. I used a rubber mallet and a socket to tap the center of the harmonic balancer on the crank, pretty simple. You can also use the old bolt to drive it on there. If you use the bolt, make sure to use your OLD bolt to drive it on there, and when the balancer is seated, replace the bolt with your NEW bolt before buttoning it up.
 






lookin good! i definatly couldnt see the factory crosshatching on my cylinders :( every time you update i get more and more desperate to start my rebuild
 






HAHA, INH! thats halarious. Take your time man, patience will get it done the first time around. But Im desperate to get this thing done!! its going on two months now, 410 is probably thinking "he coulda done that v8 swap by now! whos he kiddin!" haha
 






Haha nice! I gotta get some funds to get the parts i need. SUcks my truck is un driveable now cuz of the wiring. Thats the first time its ever been too broke to drive. Even after spewing tcase parts in the middle of teh mojave i coiuld drive it home! Ah well. Im hoping to knock my rebuild out in no more than a few weeks. gonna be tough though since i can only work on the truck when im off work which isnt till around 6 at the latest, and the auto shop on post is only open till 9. Might buy some tools to do some work myself in my room at night, like pressing in pistons or something, i dunno.

Leep up the good work! I cant wait to here from you how it drives, since out motors are gonna be pretty similar!
 






So has anything changed as far modifications for additional power? Or are you sticking with what you wrote a couple pages back?

If so, what is the definitive list of whats getting done to the 4.0? :)
 






noticed on your elite registry: 5) Moly Ductile rings & .010 undersized bearings (Cleivte 77/Perfect Circle)

whats with the .010 undersized? i dont get why or even how you couldput smaller bearings in..
 



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As far as power adders go, everything is still sticking to the orignal projection. I have considered adding underdrive pulleys to the mix. Although, im probably going to wait on those, since i spent my tax returns on new AC, Powersteering... ect... hehe.

Here is the list of everything thats been done/will be done to the 4.0!

- Felpro gasket set
- Ford Lower-intake gasket (metal, over Felpro's cork)
- Stage 3 heads/ CompCams dual valve springs/ Crane Cam retainers.
- Felpro head bolts
- 422 Comp cam
- Smithbros 5.525" pushrods
- DeltaCams Rocker arms
- Borla Headers & Y-pipe
- Lifters
- Cloyes Timing set
- Clevite premium Moly Piston Rings, Clevite Bearings
CB-723-P = Rod bearings
MS-860-P = Main bearings
SH-1441-S = Cam bearings
- Clevite SOHC Pistons
- Dorman motor mounts (cheap, oh well!)
- KKN Filter
- New MAF & IAC
- Melling oil pump
- Dayco Belt

- Transfercase overhaul kit and Chain
- New AC compressor, AC accumulator, Orfice valve, and AC condensor
- New PS pump, Return line, pressure line, and Dorman pulley
- New Radiator, water pump, inlet and outlet hoses, thermostat housing, motorcraft thermostat. Tempature sender. Ford cooling fan, Four Seasons fan clutch
- New Idler and tensioner pullies.
- LUK performance GOLD Clutch/PressurePlate/Throwout/Pilot/Slave
- ARP 289/302 main bolts, if i can find them!
- Motorcraft spark plugs if i can get them, if not Autolite or NGK
- Bosch plug wires.

Machine Work
- Resurfaced heads (.0001, doesn't effect pushrod length), new valve guides and seats. Hotbathed. Metal freeze plugs
- Lower intake resurfaced, (look at picture of the welds, kinda uneven in spots, resurface fixed that!), hot bathed
- Hotbathed upper intake
- Short block will be honed, and hotbathed. Probably not overbored, aslong as its within spec. Freeze plugs
- Crank Magnafluxed, undersized if needed.
- Rotating assembly will be balanced.
 






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