Dreaming of one mean 4.0: The Build up - Creager's 1992 Sport

[Creager]

Check out this little snipit i got from ranger power sports, its in reference to reinstalling the crank

From a '92 Ford Manual, for the 4.0L OHV:

1. Place crankshaft upper main bearings in position in the bores with the tang fitting in the slot provided. Lubricate bearings with engine oil.

2. Install the lower main bearings in the bearing caps.

3. Carefully lower crankshaft into place. Use care to prevent damage to bearing surfaces.

4. Check clearance of each main bearing.

5. After bearings have been fitted, apply engine oil to the journals and bearings.

NOTE: Apply Silicone Rubber D6AZ-19562-BA (ESE-M4G195-A) or equivalent in a 1.59mm (1/16-inch) bead in each corner of rear main bearing cap saddle, the full length of the saddle.

6. Install all bearings and caps except thrust bearing cap (No. 3 bearing). MAKE SURE MAIN BEARING CAPS ARE INSTALLED IN THEIR ORIGINAL POSITION. Tighten bearing caps to specification.

7. Install thrust bearing cap (No. 3) with bolts finger-tight.

8. Pry crankshaft forward against thrust surface of upper half of bearing.

9. Hold crankshaft forward and pry thrust bearing cap to the rear. This will align thrust surfaces of both halves of the bearing.

10. Retain forward pressure on crankshaft. Tighten cap bolts to specification.

11. Force crankshaft toward the rear of the engine.

12. Check crankshaft end play (0.05-0.32mm / 0.002"-0.0125").

13. Install crankshaft rear oil seal.

 

[Creager]

Update for today: The Block, Crank, and Rods were dropped off at machiner's this afternoon. The machinst said he might be able to get me a better deal on bearings/rings/pistons from Federal Mogual. If he can do better then my $450 estimate for Clevite 77 parts, i might end up with Sealed Power parts. Which is cool. Federal Mogual and Clevite use the same supplier for the cam bearings, and Federal Mogual is still high-quality stuff.

+ $150 for timing set and oil pump

so $600 for the rest of the engine parts is my estimate. I really hope he can beat that.

 

[Creager]

I'm not sure if I said anything here, but I was worried about the Main bolts being torque to yield bolts, which would needed to have been replaced. Come to find out, the main bolts are not torque to yield, and can be reused.

The harmonic balancer bolt is TTY, same with the head bolts. Some say (including my machinist) say you can reuse the harmonic balancer bolt, I say Josh begs to differ... haha.

Haven’t heard from my Machinist yet, he was going to get back to me on the cost for those pistons and whatnot. Hopefully he will be cheaper then my $600 estimate (SOHC pistons, main/rod/cam bearings, rings, timing set, oil pump). He is also going to look into lifters for me, if he can do a new set of lifters for $200, im going for those. If not, it’s rebuilt for me!

My Machine guy recommended .030 over. Since Federal Mogul and Clevite77 don’t make .010 over pistons, only .020, .030, and .040. The cylinders actually looked pretty good, I could have gotten away with standard pistons, but I want a round bore... I figure since I'm going out, might as well go ALL out. Hopefully the crank and the rods are still round.

I’m defiantly going to get some pictures of the reinstallation of the crank/pistons/timing set/cam when the time comes. Another mini-write up will be in the mix =)

I’m planning to have this all done and said in the next 1-3 weeks, but it probably will take more like 2-5 weeks with my school schedule, work, and this freakin’ PTI I gotta do (long story). What makes it even better, is next week im going to have to start working 7 days a week for a couple weeks... since the other guy is moving to a different department within the company! If this build takes any longer I'm going to go INSANE! haha

A flaming-river steering-shaft should be in the mail next week, i just need to get the measurments to them. Borla headers and maybe those rebuilt lifters will be comming my way aswell, depending on how my machinist price looks for all the other parts. I would have all this stuff already, except I decided to get my ATM/Debit/Credit card replaced last week, yeah... Bank of America froze my account until i activate my new card! Big mistake! haha, It hasnt came yet!

 

[inh]

if you can get new lifters for $200 , get two sets and ill buy a set off you

 

[Creager]

haha, sure thing! i guess $200 is wishful thinking though huh?

 

[inh]

probably, considering they are usually about $40/lifter. But hey ya never know.

 

[Creager]

Wahoo, i heard from my machinist tonight! $900 for everything, including: SOHC pistons, Preimum rings, Rod bearings, Cam bearings, Main bearings, Timing set, Oil pump, Oil pump shaft, Freeze Plugs, .030 overbore, Cleaning, and Balancing! The lifters he found costed $400, heheh, i told him to hold off on those.

Pictures!

1) Just some of the parts i painted up. Those are the motor mount-brackets, which bolt to the block, and the bracket which holds the alternator and belt tensonior. I wanna paint those pullies, what do you guys think?

2) As you can see in the pic, i made sure to mask off all the sealing surfaces. Im more then likely going to go back and hit those edges with steal wool to make sure everything seals properly. Im not going to paint the heads/block until everything is togeather.

3) I decided to paint my upper intake this silver color, it came out better then i thought it would. Ill probably do the lower intake this same color, and maybe the block.

4) Another shot of that alternator bracket

 

[Creager]

1) Nice and pretty power steering, hehehe

2) Here you can see whats stoopid about this stoopid pump. See the end of the pump shaft?

3) This is the reason why

The kit comes with GRADE 5 bolts to press that thing on there, hehe you can see what they look like once you get so far. Actually, the black one is what came with the kit, the silver ones are what i got at FASTENAL to help proceed with the installation. Too bad FASTENAL didnt have grade 8, otherwise id be done with it!

4) Here is another engine compartment shot, you should be able to see the new motor mounts, accumulator, and power steering lines! Yahoo!

Progress, gotta love it!

 

[Creager]

Just some random shots.

I love how clean my pressure washer got the tranny/tcase

 

[Creager]

Cracks in the steering shaft, glad im purchasing a new one!

Check at the bottom part of the shaft, identical cracks as the top... rubber, hehe

 

[Creager]

According to my guy, all the parts I ordered are in his warehouse and should be in by Monday. By Wednesday he should have the block ready. I got to run my harmonic balancer up to him so he can balance the rotating assembly.

Here is the final price list for everyone interested in what I spent to complete this monster

$720 : stage 3 heads/422 Cam/Pushrods
$400 : Borla Headers & Y-pipe
$100 : Lifters
$500 : Federal Mogual Moly piston rings, Federal Mogual Bearings
..........Federal Mogual .030 SOHC Pistons
..........Melling Oil pump and pump shaft
..........Melling Timing set
$90 : KKN Filter


$430 : .030 overbore, Balancing, Cleaning, resurface lower intake
$130 : Milling/cleaning Heads
$30 : Hotbath for Upper and lower intake

T$2400.

I’m going to work a price sheet of all the miscellaneous stuff I bought too. Because I know I spent more then $2400! Haha, the rest of the stuff I guess I didn’t really need to get the engine running. I figured since I was going to have the truck down for this long I might as well fix everything.

 

[Creager]

Here is my compiled price list of everything else...

$150 - Felpro gasket set + Headbolts
$90 - Ford Lower-intake gasket, Ford head gaskets, Ford Valve cover gaskets...
$250 - DeltaCams Rocker arms
$25 - Dorman motor mounts (cheap, oh well!)
$250 - New MAF & IAC
$25 - Dayco Belt

$150 - Transfercase overhaul kit and Chain
$350 - New AC compressor, AC accumulator, Orfice valve, and AC condensor
$100 - New PS pump, Return line, pressure line, and Dorman pulley
$250 - New Radiator, water pump, inlet and outlet hoses, thermostat housing, motorcraft thermostat. Tempature sender. Ford cooling fan, Four Seasons fan clutch
$20 - New Idler and tensioner pullies.
$250 - LUK performance GOLD Clutch/PressurePlate/Throwout/Pilot/Slave
$15 - Motorcraft spark plugs
$25 - Motorcraft plug wires.
$15 - Motorcraft fuel filter

$1965
+ $2400 for actual engine work
= $4365 GRAND TOTAL

For a couple 1000 more i could of had a 302... but im thinking ill be saving more money in gas in the long run. But i really dont know, i could end up with WORSE gas mileage haha. From the research ive done, i should get the same gas mileage i was getting before, and with the higher compression ill actually save a little gas with higher rpms. So we'll see!

 

[Josh]

Higher compression = More expensive gas If your worried about milage, buy a Honda. Soon my truck will retire as a daily driver. I had the chance to buy a good used 97 Ford Contour for 1600 bucks and it ran on gas and CNG. Anywhoo, You will have one nice motor. Maybe I should get off my a$$ and install that Xterra SC I have sitting in the garage.

 

[Creager]

Exactly, but im not too worried about it though, i got two civics at my disposal if prices reach $4.00. It would just be kinda sucky if i got less then like 10 miles per gallon haha, then i shoulda got the v8! If the gas prices ever go down to like $2.09 a gallon then it wont bother me the least bit, ill be going through tires quicker then a tank of gas.

 

[Ronin8002]

Love the painted P/S pump and brackets....I gotta remember to do that when I rebuild my motor.

Your gas mileage should be fine, but, like I said before, it will depend on how you drive since you're going to want to put your foot in the throttle with that huge powerband you'll have with this new motor

 

[Creager]

Haha thanks man. I used the Dupli-color High-Temp engine Enamel. Supposedly it can take up to 600*F, the silver one claims 1100*F!

Huge powerband, now you're talkin' dirty! I cant wait to get this sucker on the road.
Its getting close, hopefully engine will be back this week. I can get some work done on it this week, hopefully ill have the block all togeather by the end of the weekend. Next week is all exams, monday - friday, BAH! So im probably not going to be able to get down and dirty on this sucker until the week after next. It will probably take me a week after that to get everything working and on the road, then maybe a month to work out all the bugs. What a long, strange road it has been!

More updates to come...

 

[4.0L_4X4_Rob]

Dyno

Are you going to dyno the beast once its running? I would love to see the charts

 

[Creager]

Hell yeah! I wanna see 'em too.

that will be like the conclution to this thread, the dyno charts!

I been thinking about those free-floating rocker spacers, and underdrive pulleys to add into the mix. But i might save those for later when i wanna add a lil more power.

 

[Ronin8002]

I've got a good break in procedure for rebuilt motors that Sven Pruett lists in his book "How to build and modify 60 degree ford v-6 engines". I'll post it when I get a chance.

 

[Creager]

Hell yeah, that would defiantly help man.

EDIT:

Does the book have any procedures for the crank & rod install?