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Dreamr's 5.0 top end build up

dreamr

Explorer Addict
Joined
October 5, 2003
Messages
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City, State
Lynnwood WA
Year, Model & Trim Level
99 XL / 4x4 / 4.0 ohv
Well finally the process has begun.....I start this thread so that y'all can help and advise me as I go since some of this will be new to me. ;)

So what is the project. Some of you may be aware of the parts wandering in for my Mustang if you have watched the "Dreamr's city car " thread for those who have no clue what I am talking about ..........here's what we will be installing over the period of the next several weeks.

76mm C&L Mass Air Sensor
C&L True Flow Air Inlet Elbow
MAC Ceramic coated 1 5/8" shorty headers
Performance Products Typhoon Intake Manifold (ported/ and "smoothed"
runners upper and lower)
PP 70 mm Throttle body and EGR spacer
Ford Racing TFI Module
Accel 24 lb Fuel Injectors
Trickflow twisted wedge heads
trickflow stage 1 camshaft
Trickflow 1.6 Roller Rockers
Ford Racing Hydraulic Roller LIfters
Ford Racing Chromeoly Pushrods
Holley Adjustable Fuel pressure regulator
Aluminum Valve Covers (polished)
All hardware is ARP
Ford Racing Double roleer timing chain
Stewart High Flow water pump
180 degree T-Stat
Upgraded Master Cylinder
Energy Suspension Motor Mounts
And of course all the gaskets above and below

Also as you can see I have spent a considerable amount of time polishing all this stuff :confused:
100_1369_1.jpg

100_1426_1.jpg

100_1125forum.jpg

100_1432.jpg

100_1449.jpg

100_1463.jpg


There are still several parts to collect, and a few just arrived that I haven't pictured above but all in all the collection stage is coming to an end and it is time to start tearing the car apart :D

As I said though I'll likely need a bit of guidance so this thread begins before I get too involved in the project.
 



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oh my, are you sure you dont want to just ship all those parts over to my house?

This is gonna be sick, those heads and mods = POWER
 






Day 1

- Up on to the ramps

- Removed hood

- Mass air and inlet assembly removed

- Battery removed

Not a lot was accomplished on day 1, but the real goals were just to get the project laid out so I could start at my leisure. In short what I really needed to do was get the hood off while I had a friend standing around in my garage. Last night began the actual tear down well a little bit of it at least but I will update this thread with that stuff after work tonight.

For keeping track of everything I am taking dozens of photo's of everything as it is torn out, all the bolts and hoses are getting tagged and bagged, and I started a chronology that details everything with lots of MS paint diagrams to help with putting it all back together.

Please offer any advice if you see I am missing stuff as we get going........

Anyway more later, but here is the final shot for sunday nights work
100_1510.jpg
 






410Fortune said:
oh my, are you sure you dont want to just ship all those parts over to my house?

This is gonna be sick, those heads and mods = POWER

hehe yeah I am sure you can't have it all ;)

Hopefully it comes out a bit quicker than it was........ :burnout:
 






IMG_3187.jpg


You may want to invest in one of these so you can get the right one of those.
 






I should have one being delivered tonight........ ;)

The cam, heads, rockers, and pushrods were all a matched set from trickflow, but we'll see if they work out or not. I am still not decided if I am going to try and install the cam or not. I have never done a cam, and the engine will be remaining in the car....


So a few questions for you all

First is there any real benefit to the Phenolic Intake Spacers?

Think I can do the cam install??????

And I'll have more later.... Now I have to work as my supervisor is hovering in my office door waiting for me to go out to the programs with her.
 






I did the cam it was a cake walk. Of course my radiator support was missing, but if you are going to have the heads off the cam is super simple as long as you can room to slide it in.

You need to install the cam, skipping it will cause you to regret it, because you will have to go back to taking the intakes off to get it in later besides you are doing this to make more power!

Yes the phenolic spacer is worth it, assuming it matches the ports on your upper and lower.
 






As 410 said, DO THE CAM NOW!! It's easy to do, and will be a PITA later. Later will require a lot of re-disassembly that you're already doing now. Putting the cam in is easy. Without it, you'll definitely not get the power you are looking for.
 






when installing the cam put plenty of assembly lube on it. And also be extremly careful when actually sticking the bump stick in. Those cam bearings will nick very easy. As you slide the cam in try not to let it keep falling down as it passes thru each cam journal that has the bearings.
What I use is a bolt that threads into front of cam that has a rod about 18 inches long that is welded to the head of that bolt. Now I have a lot of leverage to hold that cam in line with the journals as I slide it in. This is not a must have but it sure helps. Especially as there is less and less of the cam to hold onto. Piece of cake to make.
 






Right on y'all make it sound as if the cam will not be nearly as difficult as I had imagined.......... do I need to replace the bearings, or can that wait for a short block rebuild in a year or two?

Quick question on that. How do I time or degree the cam. I should be able to get it in if I pull the radiator...... but will I be able to get it turned the right way??????? :eek:


As to the Phenolic spacer.......my intake is basically a Edelbrock Performer in design so that spacer should work.....I think first I need to see how much hood clearance I have. Perhaps I can order one later as it is easily accessed.


A new box was delivered just a bit ago......as well as one Saturday that I had not got around to adding in. 'tis mostly accessories but we are getting there.....
Looks like we got the.......................
Stewart Highflow water pump
Mr Gasket 180 T-stat
Some vacuum line
Breslin Locking header bolts
Thread Sealer
RTV
Adjustable pushrod
Gasket scraper
Thread chaser taps
Fuel line disconnector thingy.....I hate my plastic ones
Fuel pressure gauge
Vacuum Gauge
I also picked up all the fluids locally
100_1537_l.jpg

And that is all till the next 2 boxes arrive.

Soo what am I still missing :confused:
I have a few things on the way
PCV set
plugs
master cylinder
oil level sensor &gasket
head alignment dowels
.....I think that is all right now.


I'll post up later with Day 2's work, but it seems I have to go to a school meeting here shortly.

Thanks everyone for the support!! I am going to need it as I am getting in to my neck.......but maybe I just make it seem that way :confused:
 






You need to align the dots on the crank sprocket and cam sprocket so they both are straight inline. Crank dot pointing up and cam dot pointing down. You may find it easier if you have the chain around both sprockets. The crank spocket is on the crank but pulled back a little. The cam sprocket has chain around it and is moved towards cam while sliding on crank snout and aligned with the dowel that slips into cam. May have to do this a couple of times to get the links right on sprockets so dots are absolutly straight. A good reference book would be nice to have. No matter what the sprockets can only go on one way.

On my aluminum heads I torqued to specs then let set overnight and retorqued again. Everything did move over night because the bolts were not as tight the next morning. If any head bolts go into waterjacket make sure to use sealer. If any do go into jacket, then I would use sealer on all bolts no matter if only some went into water jacket. This will insure an even torque load on all bolts. That's a great idea about the thread chaser. So much of the torque is used in friction of uncleaned threads, instead of pulling head down to block. One other thing. Some aluminum heads are predrilled for larger head bolts and need bushings for the smaller head bolts.
 






Rookie thank you for all the advice.
The cam remarks I must say I need to see it when I get there to fully understand....but I followed so I will come back to that subject later when I can formulate my questions with proper perspective.........

very good advice on the headbolts.........knowing me by the time I got to bolting on the heads I would be smelling the end of the project and failed to double check after a bit of "settle" time. I did pick up a set of Edelbrock Headbolt reducer bushings a while back.
 






Day 2

Day 2 10-16

- Fan and water pump pulley removed

- Fan shroud and overflow tank removed

- Belt removed

- Smog lines removed

- TB and EGR spacer removed

- IAC removed for polishing

- Removed Upper intake Manifold

- Removed Alternator

- Removed serpentine tensioner arm

- Removed distributor cap and spark plug wires

- Drained radiator and removed the hoses


So finally I get around to adding Sundays work to the mix.....I have not done anything during the last couple of days :D

Notes in regard to this section......well I wish I could afford to add an e-fan to the mix!!!!!

All in all this was a rather light load for a sunday evening. I spent most of the time cleaning the parts which will be re-used and labeling every damn wire, hose, or vacuum line that I disconnected. I am sure I would have no problem doing this part without the labels, but then again why risk it. In addition I have taken numerous pictures for later reference and drawn a few hose routing diagrams in MS paint as well. My one note here is that I should get some more vacuum line to replace all of the old.

Next I did find one thing that made me a little nervous. The air charge is pre-warmed via radiator fluid circulating through the EGR spacer. The gasket here was basically gone......meaning there was fluid in the upper intake. Not much, just enough to make it damp. Some of this may also have been oil from the pcv system, but I think a good portion of the dampness came from coolant leaking in. Obviously not much as I have not had to add any coolant in nearly a year of service......I suppose I am concerned because I do not know if this may have had any adverse effects on the engine internals. The bottom end has 170K on it though compression and cylinder balance tests have all been great. Wish me luck when I pop them heads off in a while. I have to wait at least a year for a short block....preferably 2

Now since I am bored I think I'll go drain all the fluids .........heres the day end picture.............well almost
100_1535.jpg
 






Day 3 10-18

DAY 3 10-18

- Removed radiator and upper/lower hoses

- Removed smog pump

- Drain Oil

- Romove Alternator Bracket

- Remove Water neck
It was very goopey in there

- Remove PS pump and bracket

- Remove Water Pump

Just a few things got accomplished tonight, seems I had from 6-8:30 to work on it while making dinner for the kid. I figured I may as well update the thread however...in a way I am kinda doing this to see what I get done and when for future reference.....lol
Nice diary you provide here for us Rick :p:

Everything here went smooth with no concerns. the only thingy slightly abnormal was how goopy the t-stat was, but I know I need to flush the radiator.

In addition I found that many of my heater/radiator hoses were close to dead so I picked up some new Good Year hoses, a new cap and rotor, and a new smog pump as mine was toast. (I hate emissions testing!!!!!!!)

Anyway, here is a shot of new parts and one of the current project......sure is getting to be a lot of room in there.

100_1542F.jpg

100_1552f.jpg



And lastly any answers to the above posted question....

dreamr said:
Next I did find one thing that made me a little nervous. The air charge is pre-warmed via radiator fluid circulating through the EGR spacer. The gasket here was basically gone......meaning there was fluid in the upper intake. Not much, just enough to make it damp. Some of this may also have been oil from the pcv system, but I think a good portion of the dampness came from coolant leaking in. Obviously not much as I have not had to add any coolant in nearly a year of service......I suppose I am concerned because I do not know if this may have had any adverse effects on the engine internals. The bottom end has 170K on it though compression and cylinder balance tests have all been great. Wish me luck when I pop them heads off in a while. I have to wait at least a year for a short block....preferably 2
 






Do not swap that cam now--

unless you buy me a plane ticket to come help
( it is getting chilly here)
I guess though you could do it on your own, but now you are going to be feeling sorry for me while you are wrenching I bet. A plane ticket would ease your concience.



anyway--I like my phenolic spacer,( actually made for the edelbrock performer ) and have your identical intake manifold on my 347 in the mounty. Question is, what will you have to do with the egr?
 






JT's a moderator!

Good build so far. I have been watching but keeping on the down low.
 






jtsmith said:
Do not swap that cam now--

unless you buy me a plane ticket to come help
( it is getting chilly here)
I guess though you could do it on your own, but now you are going to be feeling sorry for me while you are wrenching I bet. A plane ticket would ease your concience.



anyway--I like my phenolic spacer, and have your identical intake manifold on my 347 in the mounty. Question is, what will you have to do with the egr?

LOL I could use the help..........but plane tickets would take away from the parts fund...


As to the EGR. Everything connects at the EGR spacer, so I shouldn't have any difficulties.....I don't think. The pic is stock, but I have a 70 mm EGR spacer for the new intake.
100_1524.jpg
 






Is there a hard line going to EGR?
This was the hardest issue for me to deal with

Remember, all that stuff will be 1 inch higher with the phenolic spacer
 






jtsmith said:
Is there a hard line going to EGR?
This was the hardest issue for me to deal with

Remember, all that stuff will be 1 inch higher with the phenolic spacer

Nope, it has one wire harness, 1 vacuum line, and two coolant hoses.

I think I am going to wait on the spacer anyway just to make sure I have hood clearance :D
 



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[QUOTE='97 V8]
Good build so far. I have been watching but keeping on the down low.[/QUOTE]

Thanks, stay tuned I should get a lot more done this weekend, though I think I may be starting to get sick....Then again that never has stopped me before :D
 






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