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Dreamr's City Car Registry

dreamr

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Lynnwood WA
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99 XL / 4x4 / 4.0 ohv
Parts have started wandering in the door. Just waiting on a set of coils. I think I may cancel it and just run the stockers for now. After all they are just springs, and they don't really wear out in an application such as this.

2005-12-20_traxxas_001.jpg
 


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chriswells78

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Yeah, just clean them up, hit them with a light coat of spray paint. They'll look good as new!
 




dreamr

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chriswells78 said:
Yeah, just clean them up, hit them with a light coat of spray paint. They'll look good as new!

That is kinda what I am thinking. The idea was just to replace everything for peace of mind. But... why replace the spring if I have no intention of lowering it....ever.

Guess I'll call and switch that there back order to an order for something else :D
 




dreamr

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Hmm I didn't post back to tell you what fun it was to get those coils out did I :confused:
Oh well that was then, and now she handles like a half way new girl. Everything went in with ease after a bit of hammering ;) (KYB struts, FFPR control arms, ES bushings, and stock springs/oem isolators)

That was then though. And this is now.

I am so very broke, but my girl's wanted some loving so the truck got hers over last week, and it was the mustangs turn. First I hate not having floor mats in this wet climate of ours. I was really fond of the Husky style in my truck so I did the same in the Stang. I suppose SUV mats look a bit odd, but they are damn effective. And beside they are black so they blend in to the gray carpet right :p

Next up was door panels. I have not been able to find a source for new ones, and the driver side one in my car was dying. Not to mention the cloth section was ugly as hell. And the little pouch that goes on the bottom was tattered shreds on both sides.

I forgot to take a before shot so this is the best I have.
20122skids_006.jpg


Now after heating and restretching the vinyl, then lots of adhesive and staples. Oh yes, we also covered the offending cloth area and the area where the nasty bag used to be with black duck cloth to clean it up a little.

All in all not bad for 2 hours worth of work. They don't quite fit with the car yet, but once the new seat coverings/upholstery is done it will blend well....

Anyway not too exciting I suppose, but ya know I have to avoid the family somehow :D
stang_doors_002.JPG
 




banshee400

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NONE
You need to get rid of that aod or put a stall conv in it if it doesn't have it allready. I hate the aod. My buddy dropped 1.5 seconds off his 1/4 by putting in a t5. Good luck with your power robbing aod.
 




dreamr

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banshee400 said:
You need to get rid of that aod or put a stall conv in it if it doesn't have it allready. I hate the aod. My buddy dropped 1.5 seconds off his 1/4 by putting in a t5. Good luck with your power robbing aod.

Living here a 5 speed would kill me. Most of the areas I frequent in the city have hills that scare a 4x4. Couple that with rain and the AOD is almost as scary.

Besides build it right and a 5 speed won't touch it.

Tranny plans are either a custom rebuild by Brad's Custom Auto (manual valve body)

or a lentech Street Terminator AOD

gears @ 3.73, and a stall converter probably fairly low between 2500-2800. I could go higher on the stall and lower on the gears, but not with the underhood plans :D and keeping it street frindly (ie: Seattle traffic friendly)
 




dreamr

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I hadn't lavished any attention on my little girl for a while so I had to scrape together my pennies and buy her a present.

In my last mustang installment we replaced the front tie-rods, control arms struts and all bushings with better quality and much much newer parts......

Now it is time to start on the rear suspension. Unfortunately it can't all be done at once so here is what I could budget for the mustang project this month.....

The shocks are toast so they will be replaced with KYB GR-2 shocks to match the front struts. The quads are being eliminated as they will be unneccesary.

Of course all the bushings are mushy so they as well as spring isolators are being repalced with energy suspension polyurethane parts.

Control arms........... damn there are a lot of products available. With a bit of studying and the advice of the Mustang guru's at Brads Custom Auto I soon realized that most of them were not much better than stock. You see Ford made a poor decision when laying out the rear four- link in these cars and it binds up in corners if you stiffen things up for straight line traction. In turn if you leave the channel style stock arms you get flop and hop. So what is the solution? Well for me it is to ignore all of them cheap 180 - 200 kits and budget a bit more for upper control arms in the future. For now I could barely afford the lower ones with the shocks. I went with Maximum Motorsports products due to their design. Tubular for the strength ad rigidity, but they also solved the bind by adding basically a heim joint to the chassis mounting side. They are nice and very heavy duty :D

and that is all ..........for now :p

etc_035.jpg
 




dreamr

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Just a small update to the thread.

In our previous installment the rear suspension was upgraded with Maximum Motorsports Lower control arms and KYB shocks. I still have to replace the upper control arms and the girl will have a completely new suspension system throughout :p ... I have to say she handles a million times better than that first day I drove her home!!!!!!! Now I need tires though as I got a warning it ticket for these bald ones :eek: .......


blah blah blah... I know I bore ya all, but I do love my toys and who else can I share with? My old lady just rolls her eyes and walks off, and my little lady only cares about the results when driven :thumbsup: (Atleast the young un has her priorities straight....)

Anyway to get to the point. Why do I bother to update this thread? Nothing really...I just realized that there are only a couple photo's of my car in this thread. They are from the day I bought her, or a photoshop. I looked at that first photo today then looked out the window at the Mustang my daughter and I washed while mommy was sleeping in. I have spent many many an evening out there trying out various detailing products trying to bring her back to looking half way decent. I have also done a few little detail items you may notice. In the end though she just needs a new coat of paint.....


September '05

201222005-08-07etc_012.JPG


May '06

etc_012l.JPG
 




chriswells78

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Powell(Columbus), OH
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2013 Limited
dreamr said:
blah blah blah... I know I bore ya all, but I do love my toys and who else can I share with? My old lady just rolls her eyes and walks off, and my little lady only cares about the results when driven :thumbsup: (Atleast the young un has her priorities straight....)

Hahaha, I'm glad I'm not the only one that gets that kind of reaction out of their wife. Keep the pics coming. I like seeing other people's projects come along, regardless if their explorers or not.

It's cool that your daugher digs it! I hope my son digs cars as much as I do as he grows (he'll be here around August). I got a good feeling that he will though. I was watching Rolex GT racing yesterday on speed, had the surround sound blasting...my wife sat down next to me and I could see her stomach jump like crazy. It went to commercial and he stopped, when it came back on, he was kicking again. LOL :thumbsup:
 




dreamr

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chriswells78 said:
I hope my son digs cars as much as I do as he grows (he'll be here around August). I got a good feeling that he will though. I was watching Rolex GT racing yesterday on speed, had the surround sound blasting...my wife sat down next to me and I could see her stomach jump like crazy. It went to commercial and he stopped, when it came back on, he was kicking again. LOL :thumbsup:

Sounds like he's got a good start :D
 




BigDakota

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95 Sport
Shes looking good Dreamr....all the elbow grease has payed off :D or is it blood, sweat and tears :p
 




dreamr

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Probably a bit of both.
But looking at my knuckles likely more blood than anything......


I actuallly do have a small update. I have been wanting to have the windows tinted for quite a while, but just haven't felt like paying 200 dollars for it.

Soo.....I called my brother in Idaho, and had him send me all my old window tinting gear from when he and I did all of our cars as well as the extended families. Damn I forgot what a pain in the ass tinting can be. I finall got it all back together around 3 a.m (Took all the windows out of the car) I have no idea how bad it is going to look when I head out to the garage here in a few , but at least I tried.

Actually I pulled it out in the driveway when I had my a.m cigarette. Not too Bad. eveything is still milky of course so time will tell. I do have a couple very smal bubbles that I must not have been able to see in the garage. And a ugly little star pattern on one edge where I got some grease on the edge of my finger. All in all they are small areas, and my truck has a couple similar flaws. I paid the pros for it.

I'll get a picture up later when it clears and I have worked it a bit more in the sun. Still have to re-assemble my interior too, and figure out why my passenger quarter window is lined opp odd.......

What tint is the Q huh.
3m 20%......total cost 32 dollars with extra for screw ups......a couple stars are almost worth saving 150 dollars ehh ;)
 




BigDakota

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How did the tint job turn out? I have been thinking of tinting the Sports passenger and drivers windows..!
 




dreamr

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Well, I think it actually turned out pretty good. A couple windows are still milky as there was only a couple hours of good sun the last few days so it has been parked in my cold dark garage. I worked all the minor bubbles that I missed out. But there are a few little flaws remaining. The worst is where I got just a bit of grease under the tint and it spread. All the stars worked out though so it is not very noticeable. The rear window glass was really rough to the touch before tint. I worked it for an hour with a razor and hit it with some polishing compound before tinting. It felt smooth when I laid the tint, but there were a couple burs on the glass so I got 3 or 4 pin head size starts in the upper passenger corner. This I expected though. Just the issue of tinting old glass.

Tinting yourself is not that bad. you just have to be patient. The 'vert windows probably would have been easy to do in the car as there are no window frames. The Ex I would say taking them out would be easier to get a good lay.

-scale (scrape but not scratch) the window with a razor bldae and windex to get as many burrs off as possible.
-scrub the window thoroughly to remove any oils or GREASES
-Just roughly trim the tint a bit bigger than the window
-Keep the glass and your workspace/hands spotless and lint free.
-Use a ton of soapy water on the glass
-making sure your hands are very wet also, seperate the tint from the liner without wrinkling it or letting it touch itself or anything.
-Lay it on the very wet glass and slide it around untill it all fits about right.
-Start in the middle with a medium squegee and work the air out. At some point when it is sorta stuck, trim the edges and keep working it.
-Water bubbles will go away on their own as the tint cures, but any air will leave a silver bubble.

Let it sit over night in the warm air and carefully re-install.
The tint will typically stay milky for about a week in Seattle's climate. Took about 2-3 days in Idaho summers.

Untill alll the milk is gone be very careful about rolling your windows up or down as you don't want to start an edge. If you do, the wife's clear fingernail polish is your best friend.

Go for it, it is intimidating only because we have all seen those really crappy tint jobs running around our respective towns. It's hard to mess it up that bad if you are patient and care about the results. Just expect to mess up at least once and buy extra tint so you can tear it off and start again. By the time you have done a couple you will be confident and not messing up. Just remember that the tint loves to suddenly slide and crinkle so work the bubbles out with care and don't rush it.


As to mine... I'll take a pic one day when it stops being drizziling off and on before dark. Might be a couple days though :rolleyes:

Edit for pics

photodisplay.php

photodisplay.php
 




dreamr

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First I know I am a bit odd in my likes and dislikes, but I think many of you will agree with the fact that green and orange get to be irritating colors for dash lighting. It seems that every vehicle I have ever owned was one or the other. I hate orange, and bright green is a close second. With my Explorer I have just put up with it figuring that one day I will yank the whole cluster for an aftermarket set. In the truck function is slowly beating out form. That said, though I dislike white gauges, it’ll be changed to make my dashboard more visible with Dark tint and a habit of hanging out in dark forests.

In the Mustang I just couldn’t take the very dim green of my dash. It was difficult to see even at it’s brightest setting. I had no reason to want to spend 150-200 for new gauges or the 85-100 for overlays. I want it to stay black as it is, and I have the 140 MPH speedo so why change. But I hate green………………..and it is so dim……….

One day I am online and run across an article saying you can do it yourself. It goes on to describe the process a bit using this glass paint stuff. I read it and forgot about it…….Then one day I was driving the ‘Mustang at night and got irritated with not being able to see half of my speedo. I bought a basket full of 194 bulbs and pulled the cluster to change them. As I was standing at the kitchen counter talking to my daughter I was struck by the little sun catcher bugs she was painting. I picked one up that was finished and realized that the effect would be perfect as I recalled the article………

Off to work we go

Rather than tearing apart the gauge cluster to see if it would work I aimed for something a little simpler that I just happened to have a replacement for……The heater gauges…..
gauge_project_011.JPG


The case has been put together with plastic pegs and the ends melted over. First I had to disassemble the case …Meaning the white from the black………To do this I used a set of side dikes to cut the little plastic tab off…..This will later be secured with the use of CA glue, but in truth it snapped back together

gauge_project_012.JPG


Inside There was a plastic light diffuser thingy. This also needed the use of side dikes to remove. Underneath I was pleased to find that all of the green coloration came form a sticker which I promptly peeled off. This left it nice and clear. I tried lighting it with a blue 194 but it was not all that blue, so I painted the backside of the display icons. I found that at three coats it seemed to be as dark as It would get. . Now we set it aside to cure for 24 hours

gauge_project_013.JPG

gauge_project_014.JPG

gauge_project_016.JPG


Now the little turn knobs also had an illuminated pointer that was……green
Upon inspection I found that there were these little green crystal thingies inside that caused the white light bulbs to look green. I was not sure how to correct this short of swapping the little plastic thingy for a blue one. I tried but the color was off and it had a very weird taper to it that was hard to replicate. In turn I gave up and painted the ends of them with the blue paint stuff from Zaira’s sun catcher kit. When cured they turned a sea green that I can’t seem to get a good picture of. Here’s the pieces though and our cured Heater control panel. Nice and blue

gauge_project_017.JPG

gauge_project_019.JPG


Now that this had been such a simple and smooth process I decided that I would attempt the dash switches while I tried to learn more about Gauge calibration……(more later)…..
My mustang has three thumb switches which are active (the unused fourth would be for fogs in a GT).
These proved to be rather challenging to remove as the lovely electronic clips are inaccessible to release. With some careful prying with my cat’s claw I was able to remove the faces of the switches which allowed me to push the whole switch assembly out the back of the gauge trim bezel. That done I found that the headlight switch had a green rubberized coating on the back to give it color. This was peeled off after removing the little icon crystal (Note this is easily done by pressing from the back with a toothpick or small screwdriver. ) I painted the crystal with three coats and was good. The switch for the top and the hazards was a bit different. It was lit by LED’s with those little green rubber sleeves. The crystals were clear.
These were popped out and painted. To reattach the crystal I simply put a dab of black ca glue at the corners, press and hold for 15 seconds, and it’s staying put.

gauge_project_037.JPG


Ok Now all I have left is the instrument cluster. I am still not positive about calibration, but I have a GPS. I know what RPM my car idles at, and I have a picture of the position of all the other gauges……..cross your fingers for me….

Disassembly of the gauge panel is actually quite simple as it is all screwed together. Once I had the clear plastic out of the way I removed the needle on the tachometer. I then ended up with this plastic plate in my hand.

gauge_project_020.JPG


A bit of inspection showed that the face (What we see) was a thin overlay lightly glued to the plastic. I used a debit card to gently separate the overlay from the backing plate.

gauge_project_021.JPG


The overlay appeared to have the coloration painted on the back of it. I proceeded to use a razor to gently scrape the white paint away behind the numbers. It was still green. What I found was that the coat on the back provide varying levels of brightness for certain things. When scraped away my dash lights were acceptable as far as brightness. They were however still green as the green color was behind the white number we see on the front. I was not about to scrape that off for the daytime visibility would have gone away.

gauge_project_028.JPG

gauge_project_024.JPG


Instead I began to experiment as I noticed the green was much more pale.
Yellow made bright lime
Orange made a weird brownish orange color
Red made a brilliant fire orange, and with enough coats turned red.
Blue 1 coat is teal 2 coat is turquoise 3 coats is blue with little to no green tint
Purple was purple after 1 coat and plum after two (hard to see after 2)
That was all I tried

At this point I had got the desired effect and had matched the Heater panel for color. …….so I pulled all the other gauges for paining as can be seen here. They actually turned out fair so far….

gauge_project_031.JPG

gauge_project_034.JPG

gauge_project_035.JPG


Next I get to sit tight and wait a good 24 hours for this stuff to cure so that I can re-install the gauges. Not done yet though because why would I want all of this stuff blue and leave anything it’s original color. The next issue was the odometer backlighting. This got it’s green light from a little plastic piece behind the clear faceplate. It took some prying but I fanangled it out of it’s position and now have white backlighting for the odometer to match the needles rather than trying to find a blue plastic piece.

gauge_project_039.JPG

gauge_project_041.JPG


This done it was time to move on to other areas. The shifter backlighting. I feared that it would get it’s color from an insert or something in the shifter housing. Lucky for me I pulled out the bulb and it was a 194 white with a little green shield over it. This was simply replaced with a blue 194 and the shield removed.

gauge_project_042.JPG


Finally at least the center console is back together again…….poor mustang without a dash. This proved to be an awesome opportunity for some cleaning however. I also discovered the reason my allergies act up when I drive the ‘Stang. There was a ton of cat hair behind the dash. Odd that I never found any when I gutted the rest of the interior over the winter……….

gauge_project_044.JPG


Thought I was done and ready for re-assembly but alas the black bezel also has idiot lights. These were painted blue and purple.

gauge_project_043.JPG


Then all back together

gauge_project_046.JPG


All of the small gauges position was noted when the needles were removed, I put them on where they were. When I turned the key they all zeroed out as they should. With the key on I put the tach needle at O and started the car. It read what it always does. So I think I am good there. Now the calibrate the speedo via GPS and reinstall that part of my dash…….


I Tried to get before and after pictures with the gauges on un the vehicle. Unfortunately I cannot seem to get them to light up in a photo. So sorry, but you will have to make do with the pictures of the faces backlight as I was doing them. All in all it is a nice change and everything color matched well.

Total project cost $2.49 To replace Zaira’s sun catcher kit
Total labor………a lot
 




dreamr

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As a side not I did take my girl for a litlle spin this morning to get smokes. Though it was daylight, well sorta, I had no need to look at the dash lights. I did want to note that the Tachometer was working great. Yeah :thumbsup: . I was worried about the tach. The speedo will be dealt with by GPS, and honestly if it is wrong oh well. It's not like I have ever had an accurate speedo in my cars. The Truck is 11 to 12 percent off. The Golf had NO dashlighting, The last Mustang had 295/50's out back so was about 10 percent off. This one just might be the first to be and stay accurate if I can get it on while driving at 60 mph :confused:
 




SkanlaxJMO

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96 XLT
thats good about the tach........try using cruise while putting the needle on.
 




dreamr

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SkanlaxJMO said:
thats good about the tach........try using cruise while putting the needle on.


That was the idea. Take it out on the freeway after traffic goes away and set the cruise at 60 MPH via GPS and stick the needle on. Of course now that I am back from my dentist appointment where I get to lay and fantasize while they drill my teeth...........I have a new idea since I hate the yellow orange needles on the blue ,purple, and red background. I think the needles are going red at night and white during the day. Just got to figure out what part to paint......
 




'97 V8

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'97 mounty 5.0 4x4 baby!!
When traffic goes away....seattle traffic argh. Never goes away. Good work so far dreamr.
 


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dreamr

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[QUOTE='97 V8]When traffic goes away....Seattle traffic argh. Never goes away. Good work so far dreamr.[/QUOTE]

It clears sometimes to where there are only a few cars on the road. It can happen at any time of day and seems completely random and irrational unless you know how the place works. All things have an effect on traffic from the obvious day and time, to local events, to weather fluctuations, to recreation season changes, too prolonged exposure to bosses and every body leaves early at the same time.......it's weird, but there are moments, and I don't use freeways so who cares ;) I can get from the far north end of Seattle to it's southern outskirts in about 15-20 minutes even during the height of rush hours. I would scare the hell out of most though as I raced through a maze of back roads, residential, arterials, and alley connections. When I am in a hurry it's like a Tijuana Taxi Driver. Only I have the clearance to bounce over most obstacles :exp: See why I prefer the X in the city for work and the ‘Stang for local (close to home stuff).




Thanks for the compliment. It has actually turned out a lot better than I feared it would. Normally I would have just bought faces, but in some ways this car should remain as it was. And I like the stock gauges with the exception of the damn green and orange thing ford does. Well and I hate all their idiot gauges they use. The Mustang though has real gauges thanks to a bit of re-wiring and a sending unit swap ;) It tells me what is happening without having to add a bunch of aftermarket gauges. Shiloh says it bugs her because the gauges all move. See the amp gauge moves with the rpm’s thanks to the under drive pulleys. The oil pressure goes up and down with rpm and load, the water temp gauge is surprisingly sensitive, and you can actually see when the thermostat kicks open and closed by watching the small changes in the gauge. And well the gas gauge just steadily drops. In her car or my truck they just all spring up to the middle and stay there. Hell the oil pressure gauge in our trucks will read at it's normal resting spot no matter what the oil pressure is down to something like 6 psi then it just drops flat :confused: Well so I was told, and that was the way the Stang’s acted too untill I followed a write up over in the corral.


Any way on to the gauges. Well I had to paint all those needles red after getting home from work. I know I was almost done, but that ugly yellow orange color of the needles looked like crap on my nice blue back ground. At the same time I wanted them to remain White during the day. As I started to paint the backs and experiment I found that to get the color all I needed to do was color the round underside. However if you paint under the white along the needle as well it is very red with just 1 thin layer. They are a color match for the red markings on the gauges as well. I had hoped but didn't think I would get that lucky. Guess I did :D

They are dry enough to handle in a couple hours and I'll put them on and calibrate the gauges.
gauge_project_054.JPG



A Note on Gauge calibration. They all will need re-calibrated; this is kind of difficult if you don't pay very close attention to the way your vehicle runs.

Celly mentioned in another thread that he had to fiddle with it and his scan gauge for a while on his Explorer. The mustang too took some fiddling too, but I used my innate sense :eek: .

So if you decide to try this anyone, go for a long drive and pay attention to where your gauges typically sit during a variety of situations. Then have the backseat passenger snap a couple pictures just for good measure.

Amp gauge ....
This one is fairly easy. When the key is off the gauge zeroes itself out. All you have to do is put it back on where it was zeroed out before you removed it. (Piece of masking tape as a marker or a picture.)

Temperature gauge.....
Mine is weird. It will stop wherever it wants to when I park it. Sometimes it goes up a bit. Sometimes it goes down a bit. It does however completely zero out if the car is allowed to cool down and the key is turned to the on position. I then just noted where it zeroed out and re-installed it there.

Tach......
Pretty easy one here. Turn the key to the on position. Place the needle at Zero. Start the car, is that where it usually idles. Probably within a couple hundred rpm's. Adjust as needed but it'll be very close. An aftermarket (cheap) tach could be wired in to compare, or you can buy the scan gauge type items. Me I know my car and have it sitting where it should be. Only had to bump it up a wee bit to make it right after installing at zero.

Oil Pressure........
This one again zeroes out when you turn the key to the on position. Place your needle where it zeroed out before removal (again tape or a picture will help here)

Fuel Gauge.

Well honestly I am not sure that this is easy. Think about your EX. If I put it on a flat table and tilted that table at different angles. Your fuel gauge would vary quite a bit. The stang is the same, and after driving around I park in a fairly level garage. It always has less gas than the gauge reads. In other words I had no clue where to put the needle. Even with the help of my photo’s because I knew the position had changed a bit every time I put the key in to check something else. I gave up and went and filled her up. The needle will be re-installed at the full mark. If the gauge hits E when I still have a 1/16th of a tank left that is probably a good thing knowing me.

Anyway that is all for now…
 




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