Dremel 575 right angle drill for exhaust manifold stud drill | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Dremel 575 right angle drill for exhaust manifold stud drill

Bazz270

Well-Known Member
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April 14, 2020
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City, State
Haifa,Israel
Year, Model & Trim Level
Ford Explorer 2007 XLT
Hi all

maybe anybody used this compact right angle drill adapter for Dremels?

I have to drill the first two passenger side studs (all according to fordmakuloco youtube channel)

all the oem parts and tools purchased including Milwaukee 2415 angle drill (cordless and very close dimensionally to fordmakuloco air powered one) for the bottom stud.

and now for the top no.1 cylinder stud:
I think about this super compact dremel adapter (2 inch head height)...will it last one single hole drill?
 



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Yes

I own one
Let the dermal tool do the work and take breaks so your tool don't get to hot
 






Thanks a lot for your feedback.
Ordered two 575 heads (and drill collet set) just for a case
 






Now ive checked strut tower and 1st cylinder head clearance..something about 7 inch in the bottom and 4.5 in the top (approximated -because of exhaust manifold still on ).

Theoretically this dremel head will be perfect even with the drill bit installed.
 






Or just unbolt all the studs that you can, break off the ones that are seized and take the manifold out.

You'll have lot more room.
 






yes sure... i am just trying to find the most acceptable tools prior to work get started
 






Don't forget to use some kind of cutting fluid, it really, really helps.

1625708719380.png
 






The Makita right angle electric drill is very compact, is variable speed and reversible. Use a slow speed, sharp bits and lots of cutting oil. Left hand drill bits work very well also. Centre punch the broken studs before attempting to drill.
Remove the motor mount bolts and lift the engine from the oil pan as far as possible. As PL said, remove the manifold.
 






The Makita right angle electric drill is very compact, is variable speed and reversible. Use a slow speed, sharp bits and lots of cutting oil. Left hand drill bits work very well also. Centre punch the broken studs before attempting to drill.
Remove the motor mount bolts and lift the engine from the oil pan as far as possible. As PL said, remove the manifold.
I know about makita tool advertised here
.but i have a sort of power source problem...my tool must be cordless..i will try to do it with my milwakee 12v tool

Can you please explain the benefits of lifting the motor?
 






With the manifold removed, tilting the engine will give you much more room to access the studs. You really need to literally get your head and arms in there. Don't forget to remove the inner fender liner.
A stud remover may work on any broken studs that are protruding from the head at least a 1/2" or so.
 






Thanks.

Now found in ebay cordless makita drill with 2.5 inch head! The one similar to 110volt model one .will be ordered today!


it is the same chuck dims like in electric one.

also ordered quality extractors,automatic center punch and new Milwaukee drill bits
and bought Milwaukee M12 angle drill and Dremel angle adapters before this makita cordless drill found..nevermind

Gaskets,studs+nuts and oem manifold will arrive in couple of weeks from USA (here in Israel we have very limited stock of quality tools and OEM parts)


theoretically no one (instead of several dealer shops) wants to do this job here for less than 2000 bucks(including chinese parts of coarse)with motor or cylinder head out the vehicle only...
 






Loosen the motor mount on drivers side and remove passenger side hardware. Lift engine from passenger side and put block of wood or something between motor mount and frame to space it out safely. That way the motor comes up and tilts towards drivers side, gives you a good bit of room this way.
 






Thank you a lot! Will try it after all the tools arrived
 






I used stainless steel studs and nuts. When I had to remove one of the manifolds because it warped few years later (they all will eventually), it was a piece of cake to take it out. Nothing snapped.
 






ford updated ones seems to be stainless too (checked with magnet).yellow coated - maybe zinc coating etc.
20210709_165303.jpg


replaces W703226-S403 studs
 












I've been using leftover auto-tranny fluid as cutting fluid for years. Seems to work just fine.
I'm sure that it helps but try the real stuff someday, it really works well.
 






Cutting fluid is a very specific oil. Anything, even water will help, but as noted above real cutting fluid will work better than dirty old atf.
 






Thanks all

I will buy cutting oil in local hardware store..
 



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hi all

Is it any option to reuse my old exhaust side manifold studs? or no way ?
ordered two new cat-converter side studs but they stuck somewhere ...
 






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