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Drive shaft Center Bearing

Tike

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 10, 2017
Messages
261
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18
City, State
Greater Philadelphia
Year, Model & Trim Level
08 Ford Sport Trac XLT
So i've been noticing more and more vibration while driving at 45+mph speeds... even on brand new roads. went under the truck and found this at the center bearing on my drive shaft.... are these replaceable or what?

other symptoms i am having are: Rough engaging of first gear from a slow coast or stop (random) Squeaking when starting from a stop/ switch between drive and Reverse. and what feels like a studder or bad shift in a higher gear. similar to a TCC not engaging properly.
sport trac center bearing.jpg


i attached the picture. The red circle is wear it is all torn and their is a lot of side to side play in the shaft. (NOT rotation, that has normal amount)

08 ST XLT
 



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It is, but its a real pita to do. There is no oem product to replace it with, but a few aftermarket. Most people go with the fort wayne product which is an aftermarket driveshaft with all the CV joints replaced with U joints and an easily replaceable carrier.. More info can be found in the 4th gen explorer forums.
 






aftermarket replacement for just the center carrier bearing? and yah i did see that upgraded replacement from Fort Wayne, i was talking to a local driveline shop and they wanted 725 for a custom 2 two piece. sent them the one from Fort Wayne and the guy said 'sir that looks like one quality driveline' soo i am going to save up and get that one... unless these aftermarket replacements are worth my time?

4th gen explorers use the same rear drive shaft? isnt the wheel base and angles different?
 












4 door explorers are shorter and do not have the carrier bearing, only late model ST. I've installed a Fort Wayne shaft and it was for sure a quality unit. Future repairs to it will be much more cost and labor friendly compared to the stock unit.
 






4 door explorers are shorter and do not have the carrier bearing, only late model ST. I've installed a Fort Wayne shaft and it was for sure a quality unit. Future repairs to it will be much more cost and labor friendly compared to the stock unit.


this is the route i am looking to go. did you install it yourself or hire it out? was it difficult and what tools did you need?
 






I have my own shop and did the install for one of my customers. It's a fairly straight forward removal and install.

20170911_101542.jpg
 






I have my own shop and did the install for one of my customers. It's a fairly straight forward removal and install.

View attachment 154133

think i could get away with doing it myself? any special tools or balancing? Looks like the CV is replace with a U-Joint on the new one.

i am from the Northeast if you happen to be up here and want some business!
 






It's a simple job for a shop. The driveshaft bolts can be a pain without the right tools. Hex, torx and 12pt 12mm. I'm sure you could handle it but I also wouldn't see an average shop charging more than $150 to install.
 












i see in the repair manual some models have a 1-peice rear driver shaft for the 4WD... is that true?
is anyone running one, read a few post about vibration/ cv bind.
 






I have my own shop and did the install for one of my customers. It's a fairly straight forward removal and install.

View attachment 154133


i cant get the smaller portion to line up. if i bolt it in to the t case side the benter carrier bearing doesnt match the factory bracket.... and if i align the bolt holes it im 2 inches away from the t-case flange...
--- if you look in your picture you can even notice the 1-2 inch difference in mounting points.


can someone help me out here this is my DD and i need it done by tomorrow after noon :(
 






Its a slip yoke, it will pull out to extend. I'll post a pic of the one I installed.
 






Here's some recent pics I took when servicing the customers vehicle. If you compare the uninstalled pic with this you can see where the slip is infront of the carrier bearing.

20180328_141638.jpg


20180328_141649.jpg
 






Its a slip yoke, it will pull out to extend. I'll post a pic of the one I installed.

gotchya. so bolt in t-case side then extend
the slip yoke and run the center bearing bolts. Youre the man!:thumbsup:
 






You got it. Also to make sure you line up the mark on the splines when you attach the 2nd part of the shaft.
 






done! took 4 hours by myself. ( im 22 and only had 4 jack stands and hydrollic floor jack ( small one))
working on a full write up with pictures waiting a few hours for lock-tite to dry.

quick comments on the project...
this thing is way beefer and way better quality than oem. very happy with it.
easy to line up the yellow markings even on the splines from first to second shaft.
no torque specs provided... so i used the ones i got off online service manual. hopefully they work.
the replacement bolts for the t-case side take a Hex key -size 6 .... how the F i am suppose to torque? these plus their are 2 that are hard to get at under the U-joint.

thanks for the quick save Boomin Explorer!

now what to do with the old one ... hmmm
 






I just acquired a 2007 RWD V8 Limited that has the same loose center bearing, just like in the video. I will replace it with Ford 7A2Z-4A499-A Bracket. Why Ford refers to this as a "Bracket" is confusing.
 






The center bearing on my 2WD V8 is removable, the shaft sections have a male/female spline that comes apart with 1 bolt. The center of the bearing was seized and could only be removed by cutting a slot in it with a die grinder cutting wheel and smacking it with a chisel to rotate it.

There is a "U" shaped washer and anti-rotation washer under the bolt holding the splined section together.

Center bearing 7A2Z-4A499-A Remove-1.jpg


Center bearing 7A2Z-4A499-A Remove-2.jpg


Driveshaft 7A24-4K145-FD Coupling-1.jpg


Driveshaft 7A24-4K145-FD Coupling-2.jpg
 



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You buy a 6mm Allen Socket to torque the bolts.
 






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