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Driver and Passenger Power Door switches not unlocking

SeventhAlkali

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Hey ExplorerForum! I've got a 1999 Explorer Eddie Bauer, and the driver and passenger side power locks don't unlock, but do lock. The switch in the cargo area works completely fine. Also, when I use the fob, it only unlocks the driver side, but locks all doors.

I took out the driver-side switch and tried testing for continuity with a multimeter. When I tested the peg that connects to the hotwire and the peg that connects to the pink/green wire (unlocking), it gets no power (though I did get a blip of power for a second, but it never happened again, even after trying the switch multiple times). I did the same with the pink/yellow wire's peg (locking) and it was fine.

I'm not sure if both the driver and passenger switches are bad, or if it's a broken wire deeper in the car. I know the actual locking mechanisms can't be bad since the cargo area's switch can unlock/lock all the doors. I've heard that it's the fault of the black thing between the driver's door and car, but I haven't looked in the boot yet. Could a broken wire in the boot also break the passenger's switch, and the fob, while leaving the cargo area switch unaffected?
Thanks!
 



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XLTrunner

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Could be a broken wire inside the door jamb boot. But, before you proceed with that, go to the back where the bottle jack is stored and locate a control module box. Wiggle the connectors and make sure they are fully seated. Mine behaved similarly every once in awhile and I discovered this "fix" by accident.
 






lobo411

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Most likely a broken wire as XLT says. This thread might be helpful. The break is probably exactly where you'd expect--in the spot where the wires flex every time you open and close the driver's side door.

Door wiring harness fixture
 






SeventhAlkali

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I disconnected the wires from the control box and reconnected them, but it still wouldn't unlock. I took off the boot too, but the wires seemed ok. I was in a hurry, so tomorrow I'll try again and get a multimeter to check the door's wires.

I also shorted the locking wire and the locks worked, but unlocking wire got no response, so it's probably a broken wire.

Thank you for helping! :)
 






lobo411

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A multimeter is the correct way, but I found the broken wire much more quickly by gently giving each wire a tug until I found the one that was broken. The trouble area is where the wires thread through the body. That's where they flex.
 






SeventhAlkali

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I just checked the wires in the boot. Gave them each a firm tug but no broken wires. I tested for broken wires in the door, but still nothing wrong. I'm thinking the break would be deeper, but where else can I check for the wires? I tried everywhere I could fit my hand.
 






J_C

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I took out the driver-side switch and tried testing for continuity with a multimeter. When I tested the peg that connects to the hotwire and the peg that connects to the pink/green wire (unlocking), it gets no power (though I did get a blip of power for a second, but it never happened again, even after trying the switch multiple times). I did the same with the pink/yellow wire's peg (locking) and it was fine.

On the following picture I'm seeing Pink/Yellow is Unlock, Pink/Green is Lock. Regardless, if you are not getting continuity between the 12V Blue/Black wire and either of the Pink/ wires when the switch is in the right position, then the switch is bad. You should be able to use a scrap of jumper wire to jump between the 12V hot wire and either of the pink wires to see if the locks work that way, another sign the switch is bad.

Also check the ground wires as indicated on the picture, check their continuity to chassis ground (anywhere).

I may be having a brain-dead moment but are the locks even supposed to work if the door is open or only when shut? I mean if only when shut then the door needs shut to test with the jumper wire.

Window Master Switch Wiring.JPG


I'd credit Craig Kulbacki for this pic but his name is already on it. Apologies to people when I repost their pics but forget where I originally found them to give credit.
 






lobo411

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IIRC the locks operate regardless of whether the door is open or shut. The switch can be disassembled if the OP has reasonably good dexterity, so he might try cleaning them. When I took mine apart they seemed pretty durably constructed.
 






SeventhAlkali

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Yes, I jumped the pink/yellow wire with the 12v hotwire, and the car locked. I tried the same with pink/green and nothing happened. I tested both the hotwire and pink wires for continuity in the door and they were fine. I also tested the switch itself, and I believe it's broken, since the unlock button doesn't give continuity. The switch wouldn't explain why jumping the wires didn't work though. I opened up the switch and it seemed fine, not very dirty at all, but I'll try scrubbing them a bit when I get time today.
 












SeventhAlkali

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Nothing much. I think the broken wires are behind/under the dash. I'm not going to have access to the right tools until December, so when I get back I'll check everything back there.
 






CDW6212R

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That does sound like at least one broken circuit/wire, but could be a couple of them. Two of my trucks(both 98's) have the main LF lock switch failing to unlock the doors. I'm sure both are from the same wire being broken at some point.

If you have a lock that often doesn't lock or unlock, that may be the lock actuator itself. Those can often work partially for a long time, before failing completely. My FR door actuator has been that way since I bought the truck, I haven't had time to replace it yet.
 






SeventhAlkali

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Oh ok, thanks. The only single door with lock is the RF door. The little lock stick is inside the door when locked, and just barely sticking out when unlocked Would this be an actuator issue?

Also, is there anywhere I can find an electrical diagram of the 99?
 






J_C

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  • door-locks-1-of-1.pdf
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CDW6212R

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Oh ok, thanks. The only single door with lock is the RF door. The little lock stick is inside the door when locked, and just barely sticking out when unlocked Would this be an actuator issue?

Also, is there anywhere I can find an electrical diagram of the 99?

Those lock knobs/sticks are adjustable, they simply turn/spin and go up or down as you turn them. So adjust them as you like, just note the higher out they are the looser they are and may turn from vibrations.
 






bilbo99

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I've had this issue with my 2000 EB since it hit 75k miles. Always the drivers door. It will lock but not unlock. I've replaced the door lock actuator 4 times and they work for a while but then die and go back to locking but not unlocking. They are pretty inexpensive on Rock Auto. It wouldn't hurt to get one and replace it to see if that's the problem. Good luck.

Oh ok, thanks. The only single door with lock is the RF door. The little lock stick is inside the door when locked, and just barely sticking out when unlocked Would this be an actuator issue?

Also, is there anywhere I can find an electrical diagram of the 99?
 






410Fortune

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I have fixed a similar problem on 95-01 Explorers a few times
Broken wire inside drivers door rubber boot 3 of the 4 times
broken wire between pass front and rear doors the 4th time

I have a 2001 Explorer wiring book that gives you step by step instructions from Ford on how to diagnose this issue and find the broken wire.... let me see if I can scan it in
 






WormsExplorer

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I have fixed a similar problem on 95-01 Explorers a few times
Broken wire inside drivers door rubber boot 3 of the 4 times
broken wire between pass front and rear doors the 4th time

I have a 2001 Explorer wiring book that gives you step by step instructions from Ford on how to diagnose this issue and find the broken wire.... let me see if I can scan it in

I would love to see this. :) My Passenger Locks but does not unlock.
 






SeventhAlkali

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That diagram makes me think something is broken between point s300 and the aux relay box. Does anyone know where this wire could be?



And yes, the instruction book would be helpful. thank you.
 



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J_C

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^ Use a multimeter in continuity mode to measure between the pink/light-green wire going to that aux relay box, and any of the pink/light-green wires that joint at S300, whether at the GEM connector, or master window/door lock control switch, or RAP module.

If you don't have continuity, you could run a jumper wire from the pink/light-green at the aux relay box 2, to any of them and it would feed into the rest because of the S300 junction.

If it doesn't end up feeding into the rest then I would suspect the S300 junction itself and hunt it down (I don't know where it is, might even be all wires coming together at the GEM or relay box, see if there are multiple pink/light-green at any of them and that would be what you're looking for).
 






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