Driver side door has no power/connection?

[halmn007]

I just recently bought a 98 Explorer XLT. V6 RWD.

The driver door seems to be non-existent to the car, power wise. When the door is opened, there's no door chime, the "Door Ajar" light doesn't turn on, the interior lights don't come on, the keypad opens all the doors BUT the driver door, the unlock/lock switch opens all the doors but the driver door.

But the buttons on the door, does work(windows, lock, side mirror, etc.)

Does anyone know how this happened, or how to fix it, or what I need to fix it?

Thanks a bunch!

 

[koda2000]

there's a small switch attached to the door latch. it would control the ding, interior lights and door ajar warning light. your's is not working. to get at the switch, remove the interior door panel and peel back weather shield. if you look back toward the door latch you'll see one or two wires going to a small switch. the switch is held in place by a single Phillps screw. sometimes it helps to remove the lower rear window channel to get at the switch. to do this, remove 1 bolt and pull the channel down. the top is attached to the upper window channel with a spring-clip.

as far as everything else, you probably have multiple broken wires in the driver's door connector/cylinder.

both problems are pretty common. easiest why to find and fix the wire(s) is to remove the door (which is very easy to do). to disconnect the wire bundle. remove the black plastic cap/plug on the top of the black plastic cylinder and unscrew the 10 mm bolt you'll find under the cap/plug. the bolt doesn't come out, but the bottom of the connector moves down. wires tend to break in this bundle because of the action of opening/closing the driver's door over the years.

 

[halmn007]

there's a small switch attached to the door latch. it would control the ding, interior lights and door ajar warning light. your's is not working. to get at the switch, remove the interior door panel and peel back weather shield. if you look back toward the door latch you'll see one or two wires going to a small switch. the switch is held in place by a single Phillps screw. sometimes it helps to remove the lower rear window channel to get at the switch. to do this, remove 1 bolt and pull the channel down. the top is attached to the upper window channel with a spring-clip.

as far as everything else, you probably have multiple broken wires in the driver's door connector/cylinder.

both problems are pretty common. easiest why to find and fix the wire(s) is to remove the door (which is very easy to do). to disconnect the wire bundle. remove the black plastic cap/plug on the top of the black plastic cylinder and unscrew the 10 mm bolt you'll find under the cap/plug. the bolt doesn't come out, but the bottom of the connector moves down. wires tend to break in this bundle because of the action of opening/closing the driver's door over the years.

What do I do with the door latch switch? Do I have to get it replaced or something then?

Also, I should just re-do the broken wires in the bundle right?

 

[koda2000]

What do I do with the door latch switch? Do I have to get it replaced or something then?

Also, I should just re-do the broken wires in the bundle right?

you don't have to replace it, but it's not an expensive part and it's pretty easy to change. the switch is more than likely broken and will need to be replaced. you can get a new one from RockAuto. AutoZone also sold them at one time. sometimes they're dirty and get stuck and you can get them working again by spraying them with WD40 and exercising them. i had one that was snapped in two and i repaired it with JB Weld. it worked for years like that. around $14 on RA.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=319619&cc=1304413

as far as the door wires, it will depend where the break is. i would solder and shrink-wrap it. take off the door (disconnect the plug + four 13mm bolts) peel back the rubber boot covering the wires and see what the problem is.

 

[halmn007]

I found the cause for my broken door switch. Turns out, its not the door switch that's broken. But the ground wire connected to it was cut, and the other wire wasnt even attached, but hanging inside the door. I'll have to continue it tomorrow since i don't have time to re-splice the ground wire. Thanks for the help koda! I truly appreciate it.

 

[koda2000]

I found the cause for my broken door switch. Turns out, its not the door switch that's broken. But the ground wire connected to it was cut, and the other wire wasnt even attached, but hanging inside the door. I'll have to continue it tomorrow since i don't have time to re-splice the ground wire. Thanks for the help koda! I truly appreciate it.

i wonder if it was cut and disconnected because it was stuck in the ON position and driving the PO nuts. i guess you'll find out soon... lol

 

[halmn007]

i wonder if it was cut and disconnected because it was stuck in the ON position and driving the PO nuts. i guess you'll find out soon... lol

Well, crap. I guess I'll find out. I hadn't thought of that. Haha

 

[halmn007]

Quick story, When I bought the car, the driver side door wouldn't lock, even with the key. So I fixed it up real quick and now it locks.

As it turns out, when I fixed the door lock and rolled down the window, the door lock wire was caught by the window and it unplugged the door latch wires.

I fixed the wires and now the indoor lights work as well as the chime and the Door Ajar light.



New problem though. Since the previous owner lost the remote key, I only have the regular key and I have to open the car using the door lock. When I used the key, the car alarm went off. (Now, I have to type in the door code to unlock the door EVERY TIME, just so that the car alarm doesn't go off). It's as if the car doesn't realize that I used a key to open the door. Cause I can use the key in the passenger and the trunk door, and the alarm never goes off. Does anyone know of a fix to this?

 

[koda2000]

don't know how to fix your current problem, but i do know you can buy brand new remotes on ebay for around $8-$10. they look and work just like the OE remotes and don't cost $50. they're easy to program.

here's two for $8.50 with free shipping:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-New-Repla...00|Model:Explorer&hash=item5d4cb24754&vxp=mtr

 

[bobflood]

New problem though. Since the previous owner lost the remote key, I only have the regular key and I have to open the car using the door lock. When I used the key, the car alarm went off. (Now, I have to type in the door code to unlock the door EVERY TIME, just so that the car alarm doesn't go off). It's as if the car doesn't realize that I used a key to open the door. Cause I can use the key in the passenger and the trunk door, and the alarm never goes off. Does anyone know of a fix to this?

The door lock key cylinder also functions as a switch to turn off the alarm (and your passenger and liftgate locks seem to operate properly). So most likely you have another broken/disconnected wire - there should be both a dark green/purple wire and a black ground wire attached to the key cylinder. If those are attached, either wire could be broken in the door wiring bundle to the body. Good luck.