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Driver side power door lock switch inop

roddster67

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City, State
Lake Forest, CA
Year, Model & Trim Level
99 XLT
Dangit. This is really pi$$ing me off. I can't lock the doors from the lock-unlock switch on the driver's side of my 99 XLT. The doors unlock from this switch, but not lock. All of the other switches are fine and work as they should. The keyfob works fine too. (Keyless touchpad is hit and miss). I bought a genuine Ford switch as a replacement and still no joy. I used a jumper wire to the pink/light green(?) receptacle in the harness, and still nothing. Am I missing something here? Is it a relay or something?
thanks.
 



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budwich

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96 XL
well.... as you found out, it isn't a switch problem... you have a broken PK/V (Y? hard to read) wire in the door post.
 






m4dc0w

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Edmonton, AB, Canada
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Explorer 97XL
Pink/green is for the unlock function

Broken wire in the drum for sure, as mine was the unlock function, can't remember what it was for the lock part.
 






dynamite196

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Glastonbury, Connecticut
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97 Sport
definetely a broken wire, get a couple crimp connectors and a 6 inch piece of wire to make an extension for it so it won't happen again.
 






roddster67

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99 XLT
Thanks, guys. So it's in that black can looking thingy near the door hinges?
 






Nunze

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Buffalo
Year, Model & Trim Level
96 XLT 5.0L
Thanks, guys. So it's in that black can looking thingy near the door hinges?

yes but know this,that drum is a plug,not a pass thru for wires so be careful when taking it off. you are going to thread the bolt in the center out then slide the bottom half of the barrell off. pop off the door switch to see what color the wire you need is and then take a volt meter and start to check voltages after the barrell right where it enters the car after the door. you will have to pull out the rubber boot.
 






roddster67

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99 XLT
yes but know this,that drum is a plug,not a pass thru for wires so be careful when taking it off. you are going to thread the bolt in the center out then slide the bottom half of the barrell off. pop off the door switch to see what color the wire you need is and then take a volt meter and start to check voltages after the barrell right where it enters the car after the door. you will have to pull out the rubber boot.

I gotcha. Thanks!
 






dhvaughan

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98 Explorer 4.0 2wd
Sorry to post the same thing multiple times, but I wanted to post my solution in all 3 of the threads that helped me. Also - many thanks to all the people that provided the power lock info, wiring diagram, and repair tips. I would have never figured it out without your help.

My problem- drivers side power door lock switch would lock all doors, but not unlock any. Passenger side door lock switch and cargo area switch both worked fine, locking and unlocking all doors. I assumed it was a bad switch, and bought a replacement from an ebay junkyard for $15. I installed it, but it did not change anything.

I tested the switch wires inside the drivers door and found the following:
Pink with Yellow stripe (lock wire) had 12 volts.
Pink with Green stripe (unlock) had 0 volts. <<---problem
2 black wires were ground.
Red/Black wire was ground.

In the cargo area, I opened up the jack storage door under the door lock switch and had access to its wires. I think there were only 3 wires:
Pink with Yellow had 12 volts. (lock)
Pink with Green had 12 volts. (unlock)
Black was ground.

At the drivers door switch, where I had no power, I tried jumpering power from the Pink with Yellow over to the Pink with Green. That allowed the switch to get a "thunk" reaction from the door lock actuators, but they still didn't unlock.

I tested the 2 Pink with Green stripe wires in the jack well by piercing the insulation with a pin and testing for voltage with a multimeter. both had 12 volts.
I opened up the sill plate along the drivers side, and opened up the black plastic wire chase, and found two pink with greens in the trough. I test both at several places, including under the rear seat AFTER the splice point, and along the side at rear seat and drivers seat. both wires had 12 volt at all points except inside the drivers door. I did open up the splice point. Mine was just as it turned from the sill plate to go under the rear seat. It was fine, with power in both wires on both sides of the splice.

I read another thread that described how the wires feed into the door, through the black barrel looking connector. I removed the drivers side kick panel and found the Pink with Green and tested it for power by piercing it. It had power. There were actually two, one going into the door and another continuing towards the firewall. I disconnected the barrel, and then disconnected the rubber boot at both ends. Followed the Pink with Green into the boot - and BINGO! broken wire inside the boot.

i used a piece of wire about one foot long, and fed it through the boot. i spliced it in with butt connectors and each side of the boot, and pulled the excess wire into the kick panel. reassembled the boot and barrel connector and tested it and it worked!!!

in another thread someone described how to open the barrel connector. I'll repeat that here:
disconnect battery...
on the top of the barrel, find a plastic plug and remove it. under it is a 10mm bolt head.
unscrew the bolt and see the plug begin to drop down. unscrew it until the bottom section comes completely loose from the top section. cut the wire tie around the boot, and then pull the boot from the door jamb opening. you can slide the boot back and forth on the wires a little, enough to tug on the one you are interested in and see if it falls out broken like mine did.

thanks again to all previous posters. my drivers side unlock finally works again.
 






Kirk

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2007 Explorer Eddie Bauer
My 2000 Explorer driver's side door will not lock with the key or the key fob. The other doors work fine.

I discovered a broken spring in the top of the lock mechanism, but can't get at it to replace it without taking the whole lock assembly out. So I borrowed a door from a local junkyard and disassembled it to get the lock out, and found that is a really difficult job. I'm reluctant to even try to replace the bad lock with the one I rescued from the junkyard door, for fear I may not be able to get the new one in.

Any suggestions?
 












Kirk

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2007 Explorer Eddie Bauer
These are all great posts, but do not address my problem (2000 Explorer driver's side door). It's mechanical, not electrical. Everything works except the latch/lock, except from the inside door handle. The upper latch spring broke, as seen in previous post. Rather than replace it I got a new complete latch from a salvage yard. It was very difficult to remove. Cramped spaces and hard-to-disassemble shafts, etc. Does anyone have a good step-by-step description of how to install it? Pictures would be great, too.

Thanks.
 






Benjamin265

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97 Explorer Eddie Bauer,
disconnect battery...
on the top of the barrel, find a plastic plug and remove it. under it is a 10mm bolt head.
unscrew the bolt and see the plug begin to drop down. unscrew it until the bottom section comes completely loose from the top section. cut the wire tie around the boot, and then pull the boot from the door jamb opening. you can slide the boot back and forth on the wires a little, enough to tug on the one you are interested in and see if it falls out broken like mine did.

This was the part that had me stumped...the 10mm bolt under the plug.
You rock Bro, thanks for the help.
 






Benjamin265

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Yeah, I know...diggin' up bones....but I resurrected this Explorer after sitting 3 years due to a bad T/C and found a bunch of other issues.
Explorerforum.com rocks, and has saved me so much headache.
 






dcluvsme

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Good stuff ..

Sorry to post the same thing multiple times, but I wanted to post my solution in all 3 of the threads that helped me. Also - many thanks to all the people that provided the power lock info, wiring diagram, and repair tips. I would have never figured it out without your help.

My problem- drivers side power door lock switch would lock all doors, but not unlock any. Passenger side door lock switch and cargo area switch both worked fine, locking and unlocking all doors. I assumed it was a bad switch, and bought a replacement from an ebay junkyard for $15. I installed it, but it did not change anything.

I tested the switch wires inside the drivers door and found the following:
Pink with Yellow stripe (lock wire) had 12 volts.
Pink with Green stripe (unlock) had 0 volts. <<---problem
2 black wires were ground.
Red/Black wire was ground.

In the cargo area, I opened up the jack storage door under the door lock switch and had access to its wires. I think there were only 3 wires:
Pink with Yellow had 12 volts. (lock)
Pink with Green had 12 volts. (unlock)
Black was ground.

At the drivers door switch, where I had no power, I tried jumpering power from the Pink with Yellow over to the Pink with Green. That allowed the switch to get a "thunk" reaction from the door lock actuators, but they still didn't unlock.

I tested the 2 Pink with Green stripe wires in the jack well by piercing the insulation with a pin and testing for voltage with a multimeter. both had 12 volts.
I opened up the sill plate along the drivers side, and opened up the black plastic wire chase, and found two pink with greens in the trough. I test both at several places, including under the rear seat AFTER the splice point, and along the side at rear seat and drivers seat. both wires had 12 volt at all points except inside the drivers door. I did open up the splice point. Mine was just as it turned from the sill plate to go under the rear seat. It was fine, with power in both wires on both sides of the splice.

I read another thread that described how the wires feed into the door, through the black barrel looking connector. I removed the drivers side kick panel and found the Pink with Green and tested it for power by piercing it. It had power. There were actually two, one going into the door and another continuing towards the firewall. I disconnected the barrel, and then disconnected the rubber boot at both ends. Followed the Pink with Green into the boot - and BINGO! broken wire inside the boot.

i used a piece of wire about one foot long, and fed it through the boot. i spliced it in with butt connectors and each side of the boot, and pulled the excess wire into the kick panel. reassembled the boot and barrel connector and tested it and it worked!!!

in another thread someone described how to open the barrel connector. I'll repeat that here:
disconnect battery...
on the top of the barrel, find a plastic plug and remove it. under it is a 10mm bolt head.
unscrew the bolt and see the plug begin to drop down. unscrew it until the bottom section comes completely loose from the top section. cut the wire tie around the boot, and then pull the boot from the door jamb opening. you can slide the boot back and forth on the wires a little, enough to tug on the one you are interested in and see if it falls out broken like mine did.

thanks again to all previous posters. my drivers side unlock finally works again.

Good stuff man. My mechanic followed your directions.He went straight to the door boot,found three broken wires and smiled. All is well now.
 






drdoug

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Grand Rapids, MI
Year, Model & Trim Level
1995 XLT. Stock.
Good stuff ..



Good stuff man. My mechanic followed your directions.He went straight to the door boot,found three broken wires and smiled. All is well now.
Great post thanks for your detailed description.Very Helpful.
 






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