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Drivers power window only doesn't work

jwrezz

Elite Snow Shoveler
Elite Explorer
Joined
March 23, 1999
Messages
1,133
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13
City, State
Parsippany, NJ
Year, Model & Trim Level
1996 XLT
My driver's side front window is stuck down. All 3 others work fine from drivers switch and their specific switches. When I push the the down button I hear a faint click inside the door. When I push the up button, I hear a louder click in the door, and also a delayed click from what I guess is the relay under the dash. I have the panel off and switches are reconnected. Any ideas? Just getting it up for the winter would be fine until I can work on it in the spring. 1996 xlt 4 door, BTW.
 


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Pete Deering

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November 13, 2019
Messages
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City, State
New England
Year, Model & Trim Level
1995 xlt 4 door 4x4
I had the same problem, replaced my with a AutoZone part. All is well for years
 




jwrezz

Elite Snow Shoveler
Elite Explorer
Joined
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Messages
1,133
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City, State
Parsippany, NJ
Year, Model & Trim Level
1996 XLT
Thanks! This will probably be a pita for me, since I've ever delved into windows and doors much. It'll just make be more competent tho!
 




Pete Deering

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City, State
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Year, Model & Trim Level
1995 xlt 4 door 4x4
Thanks! This will probably be a pita for me, since I've ever delved into windows and doors much. It'll just make be more competent tho!
You r half way done. Getting the door panel off is the hardest part. I don't remember what I did for the explorer. I believe its just a motor assembly. A few tips: used duct to hold the window glass up. you can drill a hole into the inner metal door skin if you have too too get at a bolt. Your best bet is to watch a YouTube videos a1 auto are good.
 




XLTrunner

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City, State
MN
Year, Model & Trim Level
1998 Explorer XLT 4.0SOHC
Personally, I'd run a hot wire from the battery direct to the motor harness plug (after disconnecting it from the door wiring harness) to verify if that was the problem before I went thru the effort to replace the regulator/motor assembly. Motor itself is pretty easy to replace.
 




Joined
September 27, 2021
Messages
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City, State
Kansas
Year, Model & Trim Level
1997 explorer xxl
Everything is riveted it’s actually a huge pita and the door panel is the easiest part.

I put a new regulator and motor assembly in and it’s still got a power supply issue, so you most likely have an issue with the wiring.
 




EB4X

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City, State
Orange county, Ca
Year, Model & Trim Level
95 Explorer 4X 4.0 ohv
It's really not too difficult, that video does good job guiding through.... it's making noises when pushing buttons so it's getting power. Swing by home depot and buy (about 5 or 6 ) 1/4" diameter by 3/4" length bolts/nuts/washers to replace oem rivets. The rivets come out pretty easy ...just drill through the middle of them with an 1/8" drill bit then smack them out with philips tip and hammer. I did two of these replacements.... took about an hour tops each time.....and that included the door panels.
Get some masking tape too if you don't have any....to tape window in place...
 




CDW6212R

Hauls the mail.
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98 Limited AWD
The window regulator is the last part you should choose to change, and the hardest part. With some Fords it's very dangerous too, like all 1st gen Explorers, because the large spring is wound up and the motor is holding it tight. Members have lost a finger with those.

The main switch panel itself is very old, that should always be replaced in any window problem at 20 years old etc.

The window motors have a gear assembly on one end which attaches to the window regulator. That group of plastic parts it eh built in weak link, the wear items which are supposed to wear more, and thus save the motor itself. The motors are very reliable, try to never replace those, aftermarket parts are inferior for those.

The motor gear assembly has three plastic pucks inside it, plus the outer plastic ring gear and other parts. Those three pucks should always be replaced whenever the motor is removed and the age of those is unknown or very old. The HELP section of all parts stores carry those, for about $7 a kit. They also have the full gear assembly if that is needed, those are more like $20 a set.

The wiring inside the door jamb of the driver's door is common to have breakage of any wire, the window wire and door lock wires seem to be the most common. So if replacing the needed old and wear parts doesn't solve the problem, it will likely be in the LF door jamb, or the relay box under the dash in the column area.
 




jpmozal

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February 20, 2016
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City, State
Ellicott City, MD
Year, Model & Trim Level
2010 EXPLORER
My driver's side front window is stuck down. All 3 others work fine from drivers switch and their specific switches. When I push the the down button I hear a faint click inside the door. When I push the up button, I hear a louder click in the door, and also a delayed click from what I guess is the relay under the dash. I have the panel off and switches are reconnected. Any ideas? Just getting it up for the winter would be fine until I can work on it in the spring. 1996 xlt 4 door, BTW.
Probably a severed wire in the door harness between the door and the body.
 




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