Driving with a coolant leak from the timing cover | Page 15 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Driving with a coolant leak from the timing cover

I will for sure have to keep an eye on it, that and the crankseal leak and the red silicone on the oil pan. I didn't think it was that expensive either to replace the master cylinder. The quote he gave me was with him bleeding it after and if the combusion valve has to be changed too. It was a rough quote since he doesn't know exactly how much the parts are at the local shop. He quoted me 2 hours labour and up to 4 if he runs into issues. 1.5 hours to replace everything and 0.5 hours to bleed including doing a full brake bleed on the whole system. He has a tank for it so he can rebleed any car in 30mins.

With the truck running, there's no oil that comes down to the ground and if there is, it's one drop in many many minutes. Before I had red silicon applied to the oil pan cracks, there was 2-3 drops every couple of seconds so it was much worse and consistent. But in the morning after the truck sits overnight, I get about 5-7 drops of oil on the ground. The new high mileage oil could be a factor. Will give it a couple of oil change intervals to see if it helps slow the leak. If not then I will just go back to conventional oil or the next oil change I may try to find 5W-40 (tough to find in stores here).

I need to give it more time but so far I'm not losing that much oil compared to before all these repairs. I don't mind topping up a little bit every week if needed.

What year explorer for your neighbour? Brand new?
A 2020. They have a ton of issues. Trans coolers leak, replaced. Some noises they said he has to live with. They fix stuff but who wants to be bothered after spending so much $$$. He likes my android stereo better too.
 



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You can’t plug in an O2 sensor wrong...unless you don’t plug it in at all.

My money is still on the damaged wiring.
 






Ditto, the proper O2 sensor cannot be plugged into the wrong connector. But if they cut any wiring, they could have mixed up the wiring in the harness itself.
 






A 2020. They have a ton of issues. Trans coolers leak, replaced. Some noises they said he has to live with. They fix stuff but who wants to be bothered after spending so much $$$. He likes my android stereo better too.
You would think a brand new Explorer would have no issues. I wouldn't be happy and the cost is much higher. This is why I prefer to own older cars.
 






You can’t plug in an O2 sensor wrong...unless you don’t plug it in at all.

My money is still on the damaged wiring.

The mech who put them in said the wiring was still good when I asked him. But that's taking his word.
 






I just don’t see how you can have three failed O2 sensor heaters at the same time. The odds of that are 100000000000000:1
 






Ditto, the proper O2 sensor cannot be plugged into the wrong connector. But if they cut any wiring, they could have mixed up the wiring in the harness itself.

From what I know the mech just unplugged the old sensors and put the new ones in. I am guessing the stock wiring is still there.
 






I just don’t see how you can have three failed O2 sensor heaters at the same time. The odds of that are 100000000000000:1

I don't get it either.

Mech says it's either bad wiring, bad fuses or defective heator sensors inside the new o2 sensors. But I don't think it's defective new sensors as I didn't replace the 3rd sensor. Sounds like a fuse issue or maybe a short somewhere?
 






You would think a brand new Explorer would have no issues. I wouldn't be happy and the cost is much higher. This is why I prefer to own older cars.
Yeah, there is forum here, they are not without issues.

96 was the last year until 2020 that they have a front axle disconnect on the front drive axle. So it can be true 2wd. It is a different mechanism though.

If I had to buy another used explorer - I would get a 09-10 V8. Those are very close to an F150.
 






This should be performed if there is a suspect in wiring. A bad connection is what you have-----somewhere

After checking ^^^^that, check the 02 sensor body harness connector for pins being pushed back out of connector preventing good contact.

 






Yeah, there is forum here, they are not without issues.

96 was the last year until 2020 that they have a front axle disconnect on the front drive axle. So it can be true 2wd. It is a different mechanism though.

If I had to buy another used explorer - I would get a 09-10 V8. Those are very close to an F150.

Wouldn't that stuff be covered under warranty though?

Don't think I would buy another Explorer again. I would buy an Escape over it anyday. Know many who have one and nothing but good things to say about it. But I don't see myself buying another Ford again. Sticking with Toyota.
 






This should be performed if there is a suspect in wiring. A bad connection is what you have-----somewhere

After checking ^^^^that, check the 02 sensor body harness connector for pins being pushed back out of connector preventing good contact.


Thanks. After seeing that, it makes me wonder if the first hack mechanic messed something up under the hood for wiring, even though the main wiring harness was fixed just last week from my other mechanic.

So you're saying that the main box right by the back wall of the engine bay can affect o2 sensor functionality? I don't even think mine was ever opened up. Will check again but from what I remember it looked good.
 






Question for you guys. Does your master cylinder sit rather a bit loose on the metal piece right under it? Maybe this is why mine has started to leak but it makes me a bit nervous so I will likely throw a few zip ties on mine to strap it across to the metal piece below.
 






Question for you guys. Does your master cylinder sit rather a bit loose on the metal piece right under it? Maybe this is why mine has started to leak but it makes me a bit nervous so I will likely throw a few zip ties on mine to strap it across to the metal piece below.
On the black round brake booster? No, that should be solid on the unit. Did Mr. Incompetence take that off?
 






The MC reservoir does fit kind of loosely there normally. It isn't easy to remove, and it'd be very hard to install. So don't mess with it unless it really needs to be replaced. A careless mechanic light lean on the MC there at the top and make it more loose, but most people try not to touch it.

Check the cap though, look for any brake fluid around the top of the reservoir, and to see the cap underside has a proper seal, shaped right etc. I had one with one plastic tang broken off, the part which grabs the MC. Those caps are not expensive, maybe $4 or so.
 






On the black round brake booster? No, that should be solid on the unit. Did Mr. Incompetence take that off?

No right under the plastic part, looks like the actual cylinder.

On mine, the plastic is actually able to wobble a bit side to side when you touch it. Feel it should be much more secure.

From what I know and saw, the hack mechanic didn't remove it. The clear plastic bottle has always been rather loose since I got the truck.

wagner-brake-brake-parts-mc131573-64_1000.jpg
 






I got a call back from the mechanic (I don't know if he's exaggerating) but he says "bad news" ..."the truck is in really really bad shape". He said that the frame is rotted all over, the entire suspension and when he got it up on his hoist, he saw the side rails starting to bend.

Front shocks are done.
Tie rods are done, no grease in them either.
Passenger side camber is off
He noticed the crank seal leak and the rear main seal leaking. Also noticed the silicone on the cracks on the oil pan.
He said the power wire on the driver side was completely undone.
Entire under of the truck was covered in oil (I knew this, but also when you drive the oil splashes back to make it look worse)

He took a quick look and said that it looks like the previous mech didn't install the o2 sensors properly. He's calling me back in 5mins.

No other mechanic of mine (and there have been a bunch who has seen the truck underneath and inside the bay) has mentioned anything about the suspension or frame rotting out from rust. He says it's a "death trap" if I keep driving it.

Again, not sure if he's exxagerating a bit but....

The big question now is, do I just pay him to clear the CEL and then sell the truck to see what of this $3275cdn that I spent on the repairs so far this month I can get back?

I will mention that a random mech took a look at the underside of it last week (to check out the oil pan cracks) and said that I should not be driving it because of all the oil under the truck. Said it could catch fire and is a huge safety risk. I thought at first he was just overreacting.
 






Fire from oil? Doubtful. Possible, but highly unlikely in this situation.

But if the frame is actually rotted that badly, the vehicle is essentially worthless. Parts truck. A few hundred bucks at best.

Being honest...it sounds like your sample of Canadian mechanics is dogshit. This guy could be just as full of **** as the first guy. You need to take this thing to a REPUTABLE mechanic and get their honest opinion.

But if it is as bad as you describe? It’s a parts truck. Especially with all the damage the other mechanics did to it.

All I can suggest is you crawl underneath and take some good photos of the frame and suspension and post them here.
 






This w
Fire from oil? Doubtful. Possible, but highly unlikely in this situation.

But if the frame is actually rotted that badly, the vehicle is essentially worthless. Parts truck. A few hundred bucks at best.

Being honest...it sounds like your sample of Canadian mechanics is dogshit. This guy could be just as full of **** as the first guy. You need to take this thing to a REPUTABLE mechanic and get their honest opinion.

But if it is as bad as you describe? It’s a parts truck. Especially with all the damage the other mechanics did to it.

All I can suggest is you crawl underneath and take some good photos of the frame and suspension and post them here.

I am on the fence too. He was off on a couple of things and he said all my bushings, tie rods, entire front end and suspension is shot. Hmmmmm. He did show how my front right wheel actually sits angled (upper half is more inward and the tread on the inside of the tire is more weark than the outside). Said my front right camber is shot and huge safety hazard.

He basically couldn't put it up on his hoist because he said the truck is too rotted. He showed me the side rails where the 4 feet of a hoiost go and how the frame actually bent in a couple spots from shops hoisting from there and then damaging it. On the left side there is a hole. And he got me to feel it and it's soft.

Do the side rails bend over time?

Will take pics in the morning and show on here.

If this is all true,I have to wonder how he's the only mechanic of like 5 or 6 who has mentioned anything about any of this (despite me taking this to 3 of my most trusted mechs at shops) and all had this up on hoists. One of my most trusted mechanics who I've used for years has always done checks on the suspension when ever it was in his shop and each time he said the suspension was still good. As in no bushings or suspension work needed.

We did not fix the CEL but he came down to it being the rear o2 sensor not being replaced. 50/50 chance it will fix it. He said to sell the truck and be lucky I am safe.
 



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Something didn't seem right. I'm going to call my 2 main mechs tomorrow and ask them if they recall seeing a rotted suspension on my truck or every single bushing and shock completely shot.
 






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