Dropping the fuel Tank

[dolphans1]

I have a 1994 Explorer and I am going to drop the fuel tank to replace the fuel sending assembly. Are there any tricks or surprises anyone can mention, like any special tools? Does the vehicle have to be lifted off the ground?

d-1

 

[410Fortune]

yes, support the truck with jack stands on the drivers side front and rear, make sure you do it safely.

You will remove 3-4 bolts for the skid plate, then 2 tank holding straps.
You can release the filler neck tube from the rear wheel well

Use a jack to support the tank and lower it a few inches

then you can access the fuel lines, wiring, and vent hose to release..

 

[falls chic]

After you drop your tank a few inches with your jack, and you undo the fill hose from the tank, you can very easily syphon the gas out. That will make i easier if you have any in there. Good luck.....

 

[dolphans1]

Well "lucky" for me or not, I filled the tank up and I guessed about how many miles I could get on my full tank of gas. I reset the travel odometer to "0000" and waited to get to around 340 miles. Well I was driving home yesterday and ran out of gas and was able to coast all the way to my front yard. I was hoping to save at least a gallon and cut it to close.

My main concern is disconnecting the lines and having to work on my back to get to the connectors. i.e. fuel line and electrical connectors. I always hate the awkward positions in having to reach for parts that you can't see very well, especially when doing this type of removal for the first time on your back.

How are the connectors attached? Do you screw them off for the fuel line and disconnect for the electrical?

Thanks,

d-1

After you drop your tank a few inches with your jack, and you undo the fill hose from the tank, you can very easily syphon the gas out. That will make i easier if you have any in there. Good luck.....

 

[DeRocha]

I've dropped my tank 4 times, the first is always the worst since you've never done it before. Anyway check out
Fuel line disconnect thread. It shows how to use the fuel line disconnect tool (used for the fuel filter and fuel pump sending unit). Also check out the info in the explorer maint site (lots of good info).. After jacking up the rear I would remove the spare tire so you'll have plenty of room to disconnect the fuel filler hose(s). (simple 5/16" hose clamps). If you have a digital camera take some pics along the way to recall how the various parts go back together... The rear hanger goes under the tank like you'd expect, but the front hander unexpectedly goes over the tank and connects to the skid plate.

 

[dolphans1]

DeRocha,

I disconnected or removed the 4 bolts from the skid plate, but the skid plate will not drop down. It's loose but something is hanging onto it and I can't tell what it is. It seems as if it slides on or catches onto the tank strap from the top side of skid plate which I can't see. I have wiggled forward and backward and nothing for 1 hour. Are there any rivets to be drilled out from the skid plate, it just seems like it is catching on the tank strap off the bottom of fuel tank, but I cant see what it is. Must I remove the tanks straps in order to remove the skid plate, or is the skid plate removed first, then the tank straps second. It is a bear to remove.

d-1

I've dropped my tank 4 times, the first is always the worst since you've never done it before. Anyway check out
Fuel line disconnect thread. It shows how to use the fuel line disconnect tool (used for the fuel filter and fuel pump sending unit). Also check out the info in the explorer maint site (lots of good info).. After jacking up the rear I would remove the spare tire so you'll have plenty of room to disconnect the fuel filler hose(s). (simple 5/16" hose clamps). If you have a digital camera take some pics along the way to recall how the various parts go back together... The rear hanger goes under the tank like you'd expect, but the front hander unexpectedly goes over the tank and connects to the skid plate.

 

[410Fortune]

Keep looking for another hanger bolt, the skid plate will come right down if you get all the bolts.
the tank straps are AFTER the skid plate is off and moved out of the way....

 

[dolphans1]

Fortune,

It seems logical. Dropping the skid plate seemed like it woud be the least of my worries, but when the book says to remove 4 bolts, and I removed 4 bolts and it wont drop down then something is wrong. It seems like the skid plate is somehow hooked or catching on to the tank straps, but I can't see it. Toward the front there is a lip at the closest front of the skid plate that is offset to catch onto the slotted hole of the frame, I cant even push it rearward far enough to at least release the front of the skid plate. I have spent nearly 2 hours struggling to remove it and it wont drop down as you say.

I don't know what else to do.

d-1

Keep looking for another hanger bolt, the skid plate will come right down if you get all the bolts.
the tank straps are AFTER the skid plate is off and moved out of the way....

 

[410Fortune]

deep breath, get yourself some light under there. Take a break when it starts getting frustrating.

there is no connection to the tank inside that you cannot see, the skid plate is getting hung up on something, I cannot tell you what Because I am not there, but I can tell you I have dropped the tank on all years and all styles of explorers and they are all the same, if it has a skid plate it is attached with bolts, then it drop s down.

So go around the edges, try to find out what its hung up on.
It might help you to remove the drivers rear tire....

 

[dolphans1]

OK problem solved, there are a total of 5 bolts (M10) size, also 2 small 8Mmm nuts on the backside of shield that had to be removed. The Shield is heavy as hell and it just drops down.

Next step is to remove strap to tank and the fuel lines. I unhooked the filler hose and there was a lot of sand that dropped into the hose that II am worried about falling into the tank. Sand and dirt accumalate at the neck where the hose meets the filler gas line.

I am worried about the fuel line as I have read you need a special tool in order to remove it. I read about on a few posts but still don't know how the tool works, in removing the fuel lines. If anyone has any tips as to how to easily remove the lines please let me know.

I am glad I don't get paid by the hour as I would have been fired from this job.

d-1

Fortune,

It seems logical. Dropping the skid plate seemed like it woud be the least of my worries, but when the book says to remove 4 bolts, and I removed 4 bolts and it wont drop down then something is wrong. It seems like the skid plate is somehow hooked or catching on to the tank straps, but I can't see it. Toward the front there is a lip at the closest front of the skid plate that is offset to catch onto the slotted hole of the frame, I cant even push it rearward far enough to at least release the front of the skid plate. I have spent nearly 2 hours struggling to remove it and it wont drop down as you say.

I don't know what else to do.

d-1

 

[dolphans1]

Disconnecting the pressure hose fittings from pump

All be damned in all my years of tinkering with cars I have never seen a pressure disconnect hose so hard to remove, if you do not have the right tool to do it. I purchased a cheap tool $9.99 and it was garbage. It was double sided for 5/16 and 3/8 diameter but neither side would work. I tried a plastic disconnect tool and I broke it in half. There is hardly any room to work on the tank because you can only jack it up so far. I returned the removal tool and went to another auto parts store and bought a name brand that was precision built. I removed the hoses, as the tool slid right into the fitting allowing me to remove the hose rather easily (It was a b---h with the cheap tool). The tool is built like a small pair of scissors with a hole at the end of it. You have to pop the hose off with the aide of this tool. I removed the spare tire as someone advised and it allowed better access to remove the electrical connector that connects towards the rear frame of wire harness. I removed vent hose and slid tank out. It was dusty and dirty and I washed it off, along with the skid plate. (I doubt a shop would do as good a job cleaning it) But want to make sure no dirt gets into it.
I washed all the hoses and now I am preparing to remove the fuel sending unit from the tank. I am surprised the fuel sending unit I purchased did not come with a new gasket. Should I use the old one?

Question: The manual says you must use a special ford tool to remove the fuel sending unit from tank. Is this true, or can you use a wooden stick or dowel to remove it?

Can someone give me instructions as to how to remove it?

d-1

OK problem solved, there are a total of 5 bolts (M10) size, also 2 small 8Mmm nuts on the backside of shield that had to be removed. The Shield is heavy as hell and it just drops down.

Next step is to remove strap to tank and the fuel lines. I unhooked the filler hose and there was a lot of sand that dropped into the hose that II am worried about falling into the tank. Sand and dirt accumalate at the neck where the hose meets the filler gas line.

I am worried about the fuel line as I have read you need a special tool in order to remove it. I read about on a few posts but still don't know how the tool works, in removing the fuel lines. If anyone has any tips as to how to easily remove the lines please let me know.

I am glad I don't get paid by the hour as I would have been fired from this job.

d-1

 

[DeRocha]

Sorry to hear you had so much trouble..

Now that you mention the sand: When I removed my filler hoses I put plastic baggies around the opening and secured them with some elastic bands (to help keep anything from falling inside).

I don't recall if my sending unit came with a gasket or not.. I'd check the autopart store and see if they carry them.
As for removing the lock ring securing the sending unit; I used a screwdriver and hammer to walk the ring off. To preven myself from blowing up I placed a fan nearby which blew away any residual fumes a stray spark may have ignited (btw the hammer and screwdriver caused no stray sparks). You just need to be carefull and only remove the upper lock ring part (you should have have a new one with the sending unit (if not pick one up). The lower lock ring part is actually bonded to the fuel tank during construction. Therfore if you break it you'll have to be creative as a replacement tank is $$$. Also when you remove the sending unit remember how it was installed so you can install the new one the same way (ie how the tubes were oriented).

 

[dolphans1]

Well I found the round rubber ring gasket it was at the bottom of the box. My instructions were at the bottom of this box and it brought a small tube of grease to place on the 4 electo probes that attach to the electrical connector. (on outside) Replaced everything just fine by myself and filled the tank up and it was nice to see the gauge move. Drove the SUV to fill up station and filled it up.

A short while later I started the car and it started making a loud rattling knocking nose. I don't know why. The oil is full. I can't imagine what it is. At first I thought it was the muffler converter rattling. The SUV idles and I did not know what it was. I hope there wasn't a screw inside the fuel sending system or pump or that some sand some how got caught inside the tank. I was extra careful about it. I drove the SUV back and parked it and called it a day.

Note: I went to the Ford dealership and went to the mechanics bay and asked if they had this specail tool to remove that locking ring. They laughed and said that tool disappeared about 8 years ago. They use a hammer and a brass chisel. So even the mechanics beat away on your car. I asked if they replace the lock ring and they said no. I used a rubber hammer and the square end of the ratcher extension to hammer it off.

d-1

Sorry to hear you had so much trouble..

Now that you mention the sand: When I removed my filler hoses I put plastic baggies around the opening and secured them with some elastic bands (to help keep anything from falling inside).

I don't recall if my sending unit came with a gasket or not.. I'd check the autopart store and see if they carry them.
As for removing the lock ring securing the sending unit; I used a screwdriver and hammer to walk the ring off. To preven myself from blowing up I placed a fan nearby which blew away any residual fumes a stray spark may have ignited (btw the hammer and screwdriver caused no stray sparks). You just need to be carefull and only remove the upper lock ring part (you should have have a new one with the sending unit (if not pick one up). The lower lock ring part is actually bonded to the fuel tank during construction. Therfore if you break it you'll have to be creative as a replacement tank is $$$. Also when you remove the sending unit remember how it was installed so you can install the new one the same way (ie how the tubes were oriented).

 

[DeRocha]

I'm glad to hear you got everything back together ok. How did the lock ring look when you removed it? Up here in the rust belt a lock ring will begin rusting after a few years. I replaced my fuel pump when my X was 8yrs old. The lock ring was badly rusted and I used a new one. I'm unsure of what could cause your engine knocking.. A screw in the tank would have been caught by the fuel pump screen and therefore never make it beyond that. There would be no way a screw could make it through the fuel pump as it would most certainly jam the impeller of the pump causing your engine to die immediately

 

[dolphans1]

DeRocha,

I banged it on the same way I removed it. I could have reused they old one but elected to purchase a new lock ring. The special lock ring removal tool would allow a person to remove the lock ring, because you must apply a downward pressure force when turning the lock ring nut on or off. If you look at the lock ring nut closely, you can see how the ring is designed in a manner that gradually rises as the ring is tightened. It acts like its spring locking washer. I am sure it is designed this way so it wont inadvertenly twist off and the rubber seals allow for a perfect seal.

As for the knocking sound, the Explorer started and it ran just fine. I wrote an indivdual post about it. I'll keep an eye/ear on it. I do not like this place I filled the car at, but it was the closests place.

d-1

I'm glad to hear you got everything back together ok. How did the lock ring look when you removed it? Up here in the rust belt a lock ring will begin rusting after a few years. I replaced my fuel pump when my X was 8yrs old. The lock ring was badly rusted and I used a new one. I'm unsure of what could cause your engine knocking.. A screw in the tank would have been caught by the fuel pump screen and therefore never make it beyond that. There would be no way a screw could make it through the fuel pump as it would most certainly jam the impeller of the pump causing your engine to die immediately

 

[410Fortune]

the lock ring is a snap, just use a wood dowl and rubber mallet ( no sparks)

You just got through the learning curve for Ford fuel line disconnects, one day you will see they are a snap, even with the cheap tools, you just have to do it right (like a chinese finger puzzle)

You are back up and running! Good job...

 

[dolphans1]

You know Fortune I tried using wood at first, but the wood kept spiltting and would not budge the lock ring. So I took the entire tank to the Ford Dealership and spoke to 2 mechanics about that special ford tool for removing the luck nut. They actually chuckled when I asked. I guess if you think about it, 1994 has been a long time and he said those tools disappear from the shop and if a mechanic had one, he would have it in his own tool box and no one else would know about it. One guy said he uses a brass chisel to spin the nut off and the other said he uses a screwdriver. Yep from the Ford dealership.

I used an extension and it did not mar the nut, but I replaced it anyway because it was sort of slightly rusty looking. I sprayed it with WD-40 and let it soak, then wacked it off.

d-1

the lock ring is a snap, just use a wood dowl and rubber mallet ( no sparks)

You just got through the learning curve for Ford fuel line disconnects, one day you will see they are a snap, even with the cheap tools, you just have to do it right (like a chinese finger puzzle)

You are back up and running! Good job...

 

[410Fortune]

okay okay if they are stubborn duct tape ont he end of a 1/2" extension works too...

 

[markvanes]

so how many miles can you drive with a full tank of gas in a 4 door explorer. providing the SUV is well maintained. just a rough estimate will do fine untill i can get it fixed.
is the average 340 miles on a tank? what did your clock say when you dried your tank?
driving condisions play a factor as well as habbits.
please let me know. im a very nervous person. lol. your the king if you let me know. after an over fill i cleared the trip counter and now it reads 146 mi.. thanks a bunch... Mark Van'ES 1994 explorer limited. 128.000 org miles.

 

[Spdrcer34]

Way to dig up an old thread and ask a question is not even relevant...

...to answer your question (which has been covered HUNDREDS of times since this thread has died), there are MANY factors in your question. Someone who lives in Iowa (VERY flat & little to no traffic) will get better mileage than the person with the same driving habits that lives in Seattle or San Francisco (i.e. LOTS of hills & medium traffic)

I have been on this site for a few years, and have seen guys claim from 120 to 500 per tank. I personally have gotten 320 on a trip to Oregon, along I-5 (the largest & longest west coast highway that goes from Mexico to Canada)

Ryan