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DTC: C1155 Speed Wheel Sensor LF Input Circuit Failure
- Thread starter Ornery
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Ornery
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- 2006 Explorer EB V8 4WD
The Damn ABS Light Is Off!
Good Lord, what a pill! Got off work at 3:30PM. Picked up a 21mm 3/8" drive deep well 6 point socket at Advance Auto parts, to use on the caliper frame. Started at about 4:00. After removing caliper, frame and shield I used my MAPP gas torch to heat the three bolts holding the hub assembly in.
Oops, forgot to mention I tried my ancient, cheap 1/2" impact wrench yesterday. It was barely able to remove the lug nuts! I put a 1-1/4" socket on it, which is the best fit for the supposedly 32mm axle nut, and tried to rattle the nut, so it would take the PB Blaster better. Would you believe it busted it loose? Soaked it in penetrating oil, tightened up, and loosened it again a few turns. Added more oil and tightened it back up. What a relief!
Anyway, after heating the three bolts, they busted loose pretty easily. One was a little stiff all the way out. My wrench slipped off it, and I popped myself in the eyebrow. Off to a great start!
I then used a puller to push the spline out of the hub. Man, it was TIGHT the whole way! I only pushed it in about 3/4 before my attempt to get that hub out of the knuckle. I figured I could screw the bolts partway in, and hammer on them to drive it out. Simple, eh? Wouldn't budge! I took my torch and started heating the whole knuckle from the bottom, right under the bore holding the hub. Beat on the bolt to drive it out while the torch kept burning. Finally got a slight gap, but that was it. Probably didn't help that my only hammer was a 16oz dead blow. The knuckle was pretty hot at that point, so I put a wet rag over the halfshaft boot, so it wouldn't cook too.
So, WTF to do now? Tried a pickling fork to wedge it off, but no go. I figured wedging it was the only way to go, but the gap was only .015" or so. I modified one of my chisels:
That was the ticket. Ground it to a knife sharp edge to get behind that paper thin gap. These images are after it was used, but at the start it was about a 30 degree very sharp edge.
Sneaked right into that micro gap and wedged it right out. Once it was out about 1/4", I used a pry bar to get it the rest of the way.
Still had it stuck on that stupid spline. It had to be pressed off to the last 1/8". Damn! I saw one fellow's instructions on how to remove this hub, and he said their garage rarely had to use a puller on these things. Well, I wasn't so lucky, and that spline proved to be the second biggest pain behind sticking in the knuckle.
After I got the hub off, I could see why it was seized in the bore. The inside was just as corroded as the nut and end of the shaft in the image above. I had to use a rat-tail file and 40 grit (yes, I have 40 grit) sandpaper to clean the bore up. Some of the bearing had fused to it. I used a wire brush in a rotary air grinder to clean it and the spline up. When I tried sliding the hub back in, it could only go 1/4 way on the spline. Pulled it out, wire brushed the spline, cleaned it and tried again. Only slid on 1/4 of the way. Tried filing the splines, but it still wouldn't go. Finally got fed up and put my normally useless Dremel tool to work:
Massaged the splines until the hub would slide in. Normally, you can draw it on with the axle nut, but the threads were gone on the end of my shaft from rust. That sucked up a lot of time, but from there it went quickly together. Yeah, started to put the caliper on the frame and realized I forgot to put the shield back on. Typical.
Finally dropped it down so some weight was on the tire, to keep it from spinning while I tightened the axle nut to 185 ft.pounds with our wondrous calibrated torque wrench:
Yep, I didn't take any pictures till it was over. I was in no mood to do that in the middle of the project. Any spare time I had was spent throwing Murphy's ball. He got plenty of tosses, because I didn't finish till 7:30PM!
My hat's off to you guys who take the time to shoot during these endeavors. Only thing I felt like shooting was my head!
One last note about the Hub-67 I received. It did have a Timken bearing in it, so it's a pretty good bet the Timken HA590156 is the same as the Hub-67. In other words, they both probably came from the same manufacturer.
Good Lord, what a pill! Got off work at 3:30PM. Picked up a 21mm 3/8" drive deep well 6 point socket at Advance Auto parts, to use on the caliper frame. Started at about 4:00. After removing caliper, frame and shield I used my MAPP gas torch to heat the three bolts holding the hub assembly in.
Oops, forgot to mention I tried my ancient, cheap 1/2" impact wrench yesterday. It was barely able to remove the lug nuts! I put a 1-1/4" socket on it, which is the best fit for the supposedly 32mm axle nut, and tried to rattle the nut, so it would take the PB Blaster better. Would you believe it busted it loose? Soaked it in penetrating oil, tightened up, and loosened it again a few turns. Added more oil and tightened it back up. What a relief!
Anyway, after heating the three bolts, they busted loose pretty easily. One was a little stiff all the way out. My wrench slipped off it, and I popped myself in the eyebrow. Off to a great start!
I then used a puller to push the spline out of the hub. Man, it was TIGHT the whole way! I only pushed it in about 3/4 before my attempt to get that hub out of the knuckle. I figured I could screw the bolts partway in, and hammer on them to drive it out. Simple, eh? Wouldn't budge! I took my torch and started heating the whole knuckle from the bottom, right under the bore holding the hub. Beat on the bolt to drive it out while the torch kept burning. Finally got a slight gap, but that was it. Probably didn't help that my only hammer was a 16oz dead blow. The knuckle was pretty hot at that point, so I put a wet rag over the halfshaft boot, so it wouldn't cook too.
So, WTF to do now? Tried a pickling fork to wedge it off, but no go. I figured wedging it was the only way to go, but the gap was only .015" or so. I modified one of my chisels:
That was the ticket. Ground it to a knife sharp edge to get behind that paper thin gap. These images are after it was used, but at the start it was about a 30 degree very sharp edge.
Sneaked right into that micro gap and wedged it right out. Once it was out about 1/4", I used a pry bar to get it the rest of the way.
Still had it stuck on that stupid spline. It had to be pressed off to the last 1/8". Damn! I saw one fellow's instructions on how to remove this hub, and he said their garage rarely had to use a puller on these things. Well, I wasn't so lucky, and that spline proved to be the second biggest pain behind sticking in the knuckle.
After I got the hub off, I could see why it was seized in the bore. The inside was just as corroded as the nut and end of the shaft in the image above. I had to use a rat-tail file and 40 grit (yes, I have 40 grit) sandpaper to clean the bore up. Some of the bearing had fused to it. I used a wire brush in a rotary air grinder to clean it and the spline up. When I tried sliding the hub back in, it could only go 1/4 way on the spline. Pulled it out, wire brushed the spline, cleaned it and tried again. Only slid on 1/4 of the way. Tried filing the splines, but it still wouldn't go. Finally got fed up and put my normally useless Dremel tool to work:
Massaged the splines until the hub would slide in. Normally, you can draw it on with the axle nut, but the threads were gone on the end of my shaft from rust. That sucked up a lot of time, but from there it went quickly together. Yeah, started to put the caliper on the frame and realized I forgot to put the shield back on. Typical.
Finally dropped it down so some weight was on the tire, to keep it from spinning while I tightened the axle nut to 185 ft.pounds with our wondrous calibrated torque wrench:
Yep, I didn't take any pictures till it was over. I was in no mood to do that in the middle of the project. Any spare time I had was spent throwing Murphy's ball. He got plenty of tosses, because I didn't finish till 7:30PM!
My hat's off to you guys who take the time to shoot during these endeavors. Only thing I felt like shooting was my head!
One last note about the Hub-67 I received. It did have a Timken bearing in it, so it's a pretty good bet the Timken HA590156 is the same as the Hub-67. In other words, they both probably came from the same manufacturer.
polizi212
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Congratulations! You survived and earned yourself a Purple Heart in the process! No did you test drive for the dreaded C1155 Code to come back or is all well at this moment?
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Well, on the bright side your glasses didn't get scratched too bad.
Hopefully that pesky ABS code will stay gone now.
Hopefully that pesky ABS code will stay gone now.
Ornery
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Good Morning Friends,
A little stiff, but happy to be done with it. Hooked up the sensor cable. Whoever assembled it, put the grommets in the wrong order. Not too impressed with that. But, I backed it out of the drive, and started forward, ABS light was off within 75 feet and under 20MPH. I would have puked if it stayed on!
All in all, it's not that difficult a job. It's just the corrosion and rust around here makes everything harder. I honestly think I could do the other side in about 90 minutes. I'll invest in a bigger hammer for sure!
Hey, we're over the hump, and it's Friday's Eve! Don't work too hard,
John
A little stiff, but happy to be done with it. Hooked up the sensor cable. Whoever assembled it, put the grommets in the wrong order. Not too impressed with that. But, I backed it out of the drive, and started forward, ABS light was off within 75 feet and under 20MPH. I would have puked if it stayed on!
All in all, it's not that difficult a job. It's just the corrosion and rust around here makes everything harder. I honestly think I could do the other side in about 90 minutes. I'll invest in a bigger hammer for sure!
Hey, we're over the hump, and it's Friday's Eve! Don't work too hard,
John
Explorer_PL
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Happy end 
, congrats.
I was "lucky" that my hubs had to be replaced at around 60k both if I remember correctly. And yes, it took me maybe 45 minutes to do each side, and the hub would just slide off the axle splines.
So when a friend of mine asked me to do same job on his Chevy Equinox I said, sure, we'll be done in an hour.....
4 hours later, broken hub puller, bloody knuckles and other injuries later, it finale came off, so you can't predict anything how those jobs go.
, congrats.I was "lucky" that my hubs had to be replaced at around 60k both if I remember correctly. And yes, it took me maybe 45 minutes to do each side, and the hub would just slide off the axle splines.
So when a friend of mine asked me to do same job on his Chevy Equinox I said, sure, we'll be done in an hour.....
4 hours later, broken hub puller, bloody knuckles and other injuries later, it finale came off, so you can't predict anything how those jobs go.
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