DYNAMAT HELP!!!!! | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Phil... PLEASE post photos and tell how that stuff does. I ***really*** need to put something in my car but none of the stores around me had heard of the Ice and Water Guard (never called lowes... oops).

As for removing the rear seats and carpet... Anything special I should know about before I do it? Also, where do I start when removing the door panels?

Also, anyone know where to get the socket to remove the seat belt bolt? I've been to many places and havn't found it yet.

'95 limited


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Weather Loc doesn't work. The material is abrasive with a tar backing. It is difficult to get it to stick to surfaces that have curves in it. Heating it with a heat gun just melts the tar into the abrasive layer. Becareful when you go back in the house. Your legs will be covered in the sandy material that is stuck to it. DON'T walk on carpets unless you take your shoes off. Wash hands for 5 minutes with warm water, soap and a scrub brush.

Seat belt bolt is a T-50 size hex bolt. It is put in VERY tight. You will have to remove it (counter clockwise of course) with a lot of force. DO NOT use a SMALLER driver for this or you will strip the head out.

I got my socket at home depot. You might want to also visit a local sears store. Call first.

Rear seats in my XLT is most likely not much different from yours. It is not necessary to remove the carpet to remove the rear seats...If you want to cover the entire floor, then yes, remove the carpet. To remove the carpet, just pull it away from the underside of the rear quarter panels. There are (three or four, don't remember) bolts on the floor. There are two just to the edge of the seats near the doors. One is below the locking/unlocking mech for seat fold down. the other might be hidden under the carpet. To remove the rear panels, there are three screws (in mine at least) on each side that secure it into the floor. Then there is the seatbelt bolt that holds it above your shoulder. This can be accessed by prying with you fingers! on the top of the unit and pulling outward and down. The cover should pop off. Next remove the screw that holds the coat hanger clip in, remote the pieces that hold the panel in place. You can gently pull to loosen them. If you try to get a screw driver or panel removal tool under the buttons near the window, or up near the head liner you'll just end up scracthing the plastic. Observe how everything looks, take pictures if you have to and keep all parts that came from different areas with those parts they came out of. This will keep you from a lot of guess work.

Door removal. This can be best done with a panel removal tool. Pick one up at the local auto parts store, only costs a few dollars. Remove any visible screws, usually located just inside the door handle area on the INSIDE!!! Remove the plastic plate that covers the back of the handle area. Start removing the bottom of the panel by pulling it toward you. You will notice when it loosens up. You might have to remove wiring harnesses and or wiring harness for lights if present. To get the panel over the door lock, press it down to the locked position and lift the panel over it...Assemble it in reverse order.

A word on Weather Loc. This product might be best suited for the roof only. Roof as in your house, not your truck. A friend of mine insists that there is a product called ICE AND WATER MEMBRANE that looks, feels and acts like DYNAMAT. I have yet to find it. I might just call my roofing buddy and ask him.

My wife thought this would be a ONE hour process...Hehehe..yeah right. Putting the seats back in (all 4) takes a little bit of time...Not to mention reinstalling the carpet, cables, washer fluid tank in the rear...etc...etc...etc...

Some of you may or may not have better results with the product that I purchased. However, it's going back to lowes...I only used the scrap piece that comes from the start of the roll...This is usually supposed to be cut off for roofing...I figured it didn't matter... Besides when it was removed it left a NICE brown tar mark. I'll have to work on cleaning that off...

Have a good one!

(Confused and tired - 3:15am)
St. Louis


Does anyone who has used a product called "ICE AND WATER MEMBRANE or WATER AND ICE MEMBRANE" know of any U.S. resellers, like HQ (gone from STL) Home Depot, Lowes, ACE Hardware, TrueValue (doubt it)
K-Mart, Target, Wal-Mart, Sams, Cosco, Shell, Mobil, Phillips 66, QuickTrip, 7-11??? Who's got it

Append to post re: seat removal..

ALSO forgot to add.

The rear seats have that plate that sits down across them when the seats are down. Those are spring loaded. DO NOT REMOVE THE NUTS THAT HOLD THE SPRING IN. Practice a little common sense here...otherwise you will have very hurt fingers if they snap down on them.

It can be removed without any trouble or cause for alarm. Just be careful!

Sorry for the massive posts...


you were suppose to say "this stuff works great, great install, I hear nothing now!"

tell me if you get word on the Water and Ice Guard

Okay...It works GREAT..........on ROOFS!

Since I like to procrastinate a lot, I'm not getting the truck back together fast enough to please my wife... awww..too bad..

If I told you guys what I wanted to do to my Explorer you'd just shake your heads.

But I'll try.

WHAT I'D LIKE TO DO! Most likely won't ever happen.

I like to tinker with things. I like to modify things.
I'd like to move the A/C Heater controls from the dashboard and relocate them to the center of the headliner between the visors. This could be done with wood, fiberglass whatever. You only have 5 vaccum lines (small ones) and a few cables.

That way I could install MORE audio equipment in the dash...

It will be just a little while before I take it apart again and cover the floor doors etc with a sound damper...When that time comes I will be sure to let ALL of you know.

I going freakin crazy!


Okay. Instead of calling a home improvment store, call and ask a roofing company. That is where I got mine for 80 dollars. They will have much more knowlegde of what it is you are looking for.

The brand I got was GRACE - Ice and Water Shield. Hope that helps.

No relation to dynamat..BUT!

'95 Explorer XLT 4dr headliner (no sunroof, no overhead console) (Sunset Ford, St. Louis) $600 to replace.

It's a block of hard foam, more foam, fabric...$600??

Mine is not in poor shape, but I didn't expect the price to be any more than $150


St. Louis


HOWEVER! I found a guy in St. Louis who will remove the old fabric and replace it with new matching material.

$170 to do it in the car...Bring it to him (out of car) $60

That I can handle...


Solution to the Problem


Basically, what I used you can pick up at any Wal-Mart. I bought a few cans of "rubberized undercoating" at about 3 bucks a can(Automotive Dept. with the paints) and a roll of heavy duty tinfoil (the thicker the better).

Take your vehicle... strip er down to the bare metal and begin to coat it with the undercoating. I'd recommend about 4 good layers of the rubber undercoating. Then use the tinfoil to cover up the rubber undercoating when it starts to get sticky. Definately do this so that it won't stick to your carpet or leak out of the doors. Which can suck!

I did this process with about 2 layers of the rubber stuff and 1 layer of tinfoil. I have a Ranger and it was a lot easier to do than an X but I can swear that it makes a definate difference.

So instead of spending a ton on dynamat use my idea. I spent a total of about 15 bucks... no more.


Just thought I'd post some pics.

I used Dynamat Xtreme. I ended using about 90 square feet of it.

Dead Link Removed

Dead Link Removed

I took the picture of the side after I put the panel back on, but I covered the entire side. I also did the doors, but the film is still in my camera.

how much $$$

There is a product in the roofing section of Lowe's that I think no one has mentioned yet called Peel and Seal. It is 22 dollars a roll and I used about a roll and 1/4 on my back hatch, maybe a little much, but it worked. It looks just like dynamat except take of the printing of the name and make the rolls shorter width wise.

does this "peel and seal" stink when it getts hot? :D

I haven't noticed any smell and here in St. Louis its gotten pretty hot over the summer.

I was not able to purchase anything for my Explorer. I returned the Owen's Corning product to lowes because it was the wrong kind of material. Since then I have been working on other projects around the house and have not had a chance to get back to the modifications. :(

Wife is not very happy having half the interior panels sitting in the garage, but they're off for a reason. I feel that if I put the thing back together, it will be a long time before I get a chance to do it again.

Headliner turned out great. For anyone in St. Louis who wants a good repair on headliners, call Larry

AAA Headliner
1555 Creve Coeur Mill Road
Saint Louis, MO 63146

He is located on Creve Coeur Mill Road, 3-4 Miles West of Hwy 270.

I did manage to convert most of the center dash to LED's! Blue, Red, Yellow, Green, Teal ones. I was a little tired of the #194 light bulbs. When It's done, I promise I'll post photos.

I also picked up CHEAP priced neons at Gateway Electronics (on page ave). they come in 4" and 12" versions...very thin - not meant for under the car... Price is $6.95 for tube (4 or 12 inch) and another $6.95 for the inverter. Colors come in (White, Red, Blue, Yellow, Green and (Near Ultra-violet or black light)) Power Supply can drive 12" of tube per inverter. (1 12" or 3 4" tubes) Input is 12VDC.

Gateway Electronics
8123 Page Avenue
Saint Louis, MO 63130


St. Louis, MO.
(South County) actually

I went to Lowes today to get some of that Peel and Seal stuff, I did not find it. Home Depot did not have it either...

It took me a little searching to find it. Its almost the same width as toilet paper, maybe a little bigger. But I did find it and got the idea from a couple guys on caraudioforum.com who know what they are talking about. It is there, they may have just been out or you may have missed it.

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