Early 3 valve V-8 Spark Plug Removal

[Bill MacLeod]

Well, finally got around to changing the plugs on my 06 on Saturday. Been putting this job off for 2 years now.

I got all 8 out with no breakage. Lucky, lucky, lucky.

Some tips for others that may be of help.

Warmed up engine to about 150 F.
Washed top of engine down to remove any dirt, oil crud, etc.
Use compressed air to dry and remove remaining dirt.
Removed air intake assembly.
Disconnect neg terminal. Removed injector harness, coil harness, removed coils.
Broke plugs loose about 1/8 to 1/4 turn.
Used Ford carb cleaner as per TSB. ( to just cover plug hex)
Let sit for at least 45 minutes.
Worked plugs back and forth no more that another 1/8 to 1/4 turn.
Let sit for another 30 to 45 minutes.
Used compressed air to cleanout accessive cleaner.
Set torgue wrench at 33 ft lb
Slowly removed plugs. (plugs/carbon was wet from the cleaner)
Installed new plugs with anti seize on barrel of plug. Torqed to 25 ft lb.
Will repeat this time next year.

You will need a 9/16 plug socket and might want to consider the Lisle extraction tool just in case. Didn't need mine, but I think I will keep it.

Not that difficult a job, just take your time and don't use excessive force. Slow and easy.

 

[BradR]

Great write-up, Bill!

I didn't even know there was a problem with 4th gens breaking plugs.

 

[Explorer_PL]

Congrats Bill, I was not so lucky,see my post above.
How many miles ?

 

[Bill MacLeod]

Read your post, great friend to have.

Mine only has about a 3rd of the miles as yours, so probably not near as much carbon on them. But the Ford spray carb cleaner did a great job on softening the carbon deposits.

And apparently the head design was not changed until late Nov. 2007.

 

[NoFear06]

I know this is an old post. But I followed the above Ford instructions and got all 8x out without breakage on a 2006 with 87k miles. I did substitute PB blaster instead of the Ford Carb Cleaner.

In addition, the second time waiting I went through all the plugs again and worked them back and forth. All came out easily and the ends of each where wet with PB Blaster.

Good luck all with your Spark Plug removals!!!

 

[Boomyal]

I know this is an old post. But I followed the above Ford instructions and got all 8x out without breakage on a 2006 with 87k miles. I did substitute PB blaster instead of the Ford Carb Cleaner.

In addition, the second time waiting I went through all the plugs again and worked them back and forth. All came out easily and the ends of each where wet with PB Blaster.

Good luck all with your Spark Plug removals!!!

Out of all the methods I have seen, this is the one I will use. My recently acquired 2006 has 125k miles on it and runs just dandy. But I do not know the history of plug changes. I have it on my list to pull the plugs for an inspection and will have a new set on hand, if a change is required. At minimum, if I have no difficulties, it will give a chance to make sure the plugs are well treated with nickle anti-seize.

This method differs from Fords prescribed method in that it is done with a warm engine. I am wondering if the poster used an infrared thermometer to determine the 150°?

 

[NoFear06]

I just drove it up to operating temps. Got back, ate lunch and started in. The engine was warm to the touch...but not hot. Your going to be working on the truck for about 3-3.5 hours in total.

 

[Bill MacLeod]

Boomyal:
When I first did this 3 years ago, the 150 F reference was an approximation only as I washed the top of the engine off before starting the job. I have a scan gauge so the operating temp can be monitored. Now I usually clean the top of engine some time before doing the removal procedure. Warm temp helps to remove any crud.
Ford recommends cold or ambient temp because of the possibility of thread damage in aluminum heads. (threads can be pulled right out) Old time racers use to "freeze" the alum heads with cans of R12 when changing plugs at the track.
With your mileage, I would get all the tools and parts needed and do this on a warm day. Take your time, don't use excessive force (that's why the torque wrench is used for removal). And if the plugs are original, there will be a lot of screeching when removed. That's normal.
Be prepared and post your experience for others to hear. Best of luck to you.

FYI, my oldest son is an Ford app tech. He helped a tech change plugs on a 5.4 3V last week for his first time. Dealership does a de-carbon, then pulls the plugs with an impact. Truck had about 80k miles on original plugs. #5 & 7 broke, one with electrode still intact. Tech pulled out a Lisle tool for him to use. Pulled out the electrode with long needle nose, insert tool to push down ceramic until it bottomed out. This brakes one side of the ground strap and allows for the tool to cut the threads in the sleeve for extraction. No carb cleaner or PB used. They don't allow any soak time.

But they really don't give a $hit. If needed, they can call in a specialist and/or remove the head. Customer pays the bill.

 

[Boomyal]

Thanks Bill! What is good to use for decarbon? and should you run it for a whole tank before you try pulling the plugs?

 

[mgmgmg]

Well, finally got around to changing the plugs on my 06 on Saturday. Been putting this job off for 2 years now.

I got all 8 out with no breakage. Lucky, lucky, lucky.

Some tips for others that may be of help.

Warmed up engine to about 150 F.
Washed top of engine down to remove any dirt, oil crud, etc.
Use compressed air to dry and remove remaining dirt.
Removed air intake assembly.
Disconnect neg terminal. Removed injector harness, coil harness, removed coils.
Broke plugs loose about 1/8 to 1/4 turn.
Used Ford carb cleaner as per TSB. ( to just cover plug hex)
Let sit for at least 45 minutes.
Worked plugs back and forth no more that another 1/8 to 1/4 turn.
Let sit for another 30 to 45 minutes.
Used compressed air to cleanout accessive cleaner.
Set torgue wrench at 33 ft lb
Slowly removed plugs. (plugs/carbon was wet from the cleaner)
Installed new plugs with anti seize on barrel of plug. Torqed to 25 ft lb.
Will repeat this time next year.

You will need a 9/16 plug socket and might want to consider the Lisle extraction tool just in case. Didn't need mine, but I think I will keep it.

Not that difficult a job, just take your time and don't use excessive force. Slow and easy.

What plugs did u use? I see theres a new ford plug

http://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-NEW-Mot...Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cd853ba25&vxp=mtr

 

[Boomyal]

What plugs did u use? I see theres a new ford plug

http://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-NEW-Moto...53ba25&vxp=mtr

That link does not work, mgmgmg! However, it was probably for the Motorcraft SP514. The only thing new about it is that the elongated tip is make out of nickle instead of copper. It is supposed to not hang on to the carbon as much as the original copper. However, it is still a two piece plug. It is a shame that Motorcraft won't step up and make a one piece plug.

The only one piece plug, that I am aware of is a Champion Plug and there have been too many reports of issues with those.

 

[Bill MacLeod]

What plugs did u use? I see theres a new ford plug

http://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-NEW-Mot...Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cd853ba25&vxp=mtr

I used Motorcraft SP-462. It is the stock replacement plug, although now there is an updated plug apparently. (SP-514)
Several bucks difference in price, think I'll continue with SP-462 as I remove, clean, re-lube, every 12 mths or so.

As far as a carbon cleaner goes, you could use seafoam, but the Motorcraft carb cleaner spec'd in the TSB really does a great job.

 

[Boomyal]

Bill, there still seems to be some SP462's around but they do not seem to be much cheaper than the SP 514's. Also I see evidence that they may be being phased out.