easiest way to pull a 5.0 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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easiest way to pull a 5.0


Well-Known Member
November 27, 2008
Reaction score
City, State
Milan, IL Quad City area
Year, Model & Trim Level
1998 XLT AWD
What is the easiest way to pull the 5.0?

Should I pull the tranny out with the engine?

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Good luck pulling the engine with trans unless you plan to cut the core support off. lol

I don't think there is any "easy" way to pull the 5.0. The biggest pain is the AC system. There is a hard line running over the top front of the engine. It is a very wise idea to get the AC system drained at a shop before you take the truck apart so you can open up the AC system and get the lines out of the way. As I remember the engine is very close to being as long as the distance from firewall/hood weatherstrip to core support with all accessories removed and only the crank balancer installed.

I pulled the 4.0 OHV with all front accessories, headers, and intake manifold installed and it had plenty of room to make it out. The 5.0 is much easier to work with if you strip it down IMO.

The only thing holding it in are the tranny to bellhousing bolts and the engine mounts. Any tricks to get the tranny bolts out easy? They are are hard to get to.

Take out the tranny crossmember bolts. Support the tranny with a jack. Lower the tranny down until you can get up in there. Also, don't forget about the access panel under the console. Although I've never used it.

Yes, exactly as section525 said. Lower the rear of the trans down to gain better access to the top engine to trans bolts. If you intend to leave the trans installed in the vehicle, put the crossmember back in and put the jack at the front of the trans to support it when the engine is separated.

Also, don't forget the torque converter to flexplate nuts. Remove the access cover on the bottom front of the trans to get to them. Rotate the engine via balancer bolt to access all 4 nuts. I think you need a 14mm socket or something odd like that.

Make double sure you have all hoses/wiring/ground straps/brackets disconnected and free before you begin to lift the motor. The engine harness runs down the top of the trans to the drivers side where it has a large bolt thru style connector.

I used swivel sockets to get to the engine to trans bolts along with about 2ft of extensions. I was able to use my impact that way. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=94516

There are also wobble extensions available that allow you to use a standard drive socket and get some swivel capability. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=67066

easiest way is to cut the radiator core support off



but then you are stuck needing another core support

getting the top bellhousing bolts is tough, plan to remove the intake for sure
getting the 02 sensors is through the center console, same with t case and bellhousing bolts = easy from inside the truck

this is when I dismantled a 96 rollover, the thread is in my sig, this is from that thread:

I think I had the whole thing pulled in 3-4 hours myself using hand tools... so easy without the sheetmetal

Here are some more detail pics I took before I pull the drivetrain, which is 95% ready to pull and will come out this weekend.

Blank engine. GT-40 5.0L, (96 non p heads), 87K miles.

After fighting the D side engine mount on my blue truck for a couple hours (access to bolts) I decided this time I would remove the steering shaft, dipstick, and D side exhaust manifold. This engine will be getting Torque Monster headers anyways :) This took all of 15 minutes and made it SO much easier

Just FYI, here you can see how the computer, power distribution, engine and trans harness plug into the body on a Gen II Explorer, 3 big plugs:

More details:


And yes those Rancho RSX shocks will be going on my other 96, hahaha

I have now started to strip down the interior of the green truck, mostly so its easier for me to access the 4ea 02 sensor plugs from under the center console just before I pull the engine.

Interesting things to note:
PS cooler is mounted with 2 bolts. P side bolt is almost impossible to get to with the engine and steering rack in place. In order to avoid damaging the cooler when pulling the engine, I will lift the engine about 6" then unbolt it.

The 5.0L exhaust downpipes, the ones that house the 02 sensors will not come out of the truck until the engine and trans are lifted up a few inches from their mounts, at least ot all as one unit :)

Its out. unfortunately i was in the garage the whole time so i never got to read any of the posts. lol

I used the access hatch to get to almost all the tranny bolts.

i had to take the passenger side manifold off to get past the A/C.

i forgot about the tranny dipstick. lots of fluid on the floor.