Stop, right there. You are trying to redneck "engineer" something. The system is not meant to be disabled. Yes, drifting in the snow, and doing burnouts (c'mon, of course that would be your next question- that's where these questions always lead to) will damage your transfer case. If you had searched for information, or even read the BWM thread thoroughly, you would know that.
Why does auto 4wd "bother" you? If you are driving normally on dry pavement, it will never activate, and you will essentially be in 2wd. If you are driving in a low traction situation, turn the switch to 4HI or 4LO, as appropriate, and it is essentially "locked" in 4x4. The "auto" part will only activate is situation of unexpected low-traction; in which case it may save you from an accident. The only reason for the auto 4wd to "bother" you is if you are trying to do stupid things, like burnouts or DOUGHNUTS in the snow.
By itself, the Brown Wire Mod is nearly useless. On the other hand, if you truly want to convert to part time 4wd, and maybe improve fuel economy some, then the right way to do it is to convert the front "live" axle to manual locking hubs. This will allow you to disconnect the front drive train so it is not always being turned by the front wheels.
You'll need to install '98-'00 Ranger front cv axles and bearing/hub assemblies, in place of the Explorer parts. Then, you'll need the AVM/Rugged Ridge manual locking hubs .
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/AVM_hub_swap.htm
http://www.tellico4x4.com/product_info.php/products_id/26509
Now, to keep the computer happy, you can do the Brown Wire Mod, with a dash switch to turn it on/off. However, you will still also need to fool the computer, as it will still be monitoring the front vs rear driveshaft speeds. If it sees a difference, it will want to activate the TCC to equalize them. So, you'll need an easily reversible way (perhaps a switch also- so you can restore 4x4 operation when needed) of "spoofing" the front output shaft speed sensor (on the T-Case) to match the signal of the rear, so the computer always thinks they are going the same speed. You MIGHT be able to just splice/split the signal from the rear sensor and wire into the harness for the front one. I'm not sure if the extra resistance would affect the signal output value. This would be the simplest way to get it done.
So, as you can see, if you are willing to put the time and money into it, you can have a manually controlled part-time 4x4 Explorer. But, if you don't want to do it the right way, then just sell the one you have, and find a 2wd Explorer. They are out there, and it makes mores sense than half-ass butchering a perfectly good 4x4 one.
