Ecoboost timing chain replacement

[buck91]

Has anybody done the timing chain job on the 3.5L EB in the Explorer chassis? I've found some good info on F150 sites, but that looks significantly better access than our transverse V6 architecture. I'm pretty well versed with my own car work and would potentially tackle this (especially since the dealer claims its a 14hr job by the book) but I'm a little worried about the extremely tight clearances around the engine in our vehicles?

For the record, this is the wife's 2014 Explorer Sport with the 3.5L Ecoboost...

 

[blwnsmoke]

It is far easier to pull the motor then work in such tight spaces. The EB motor is no different of a job then the NA 3.5 if you are just working with the water pump. But it is a much more difficult job because of how tight it is with the motor turned 90 degrees.

 

[peterk9]

I'm guessing you are beyond the 60k mile warranty limit? Not sure if this thread is of any help; Anyone mechanically inclined want to explain how I can replace waterpump? Good luck.
If you are going ahead with this, a video or 'How To' steps would be helpful.

Peter

 

[buck91]

Well I'm almost done building and verifying a parts list for my 2014 Explorer. Its interesting to note that the gentleman I'm working with at the dealer says this is an "old architecture" design. Only has phasers on the intake cams. Also trying to figure out some confusion on the water pump. His initial thoughts on the parts diagram was that it has an external water pump. Waiting for a reply. Eventually I'll post my parts list once its finalized.

 

[peterk9]

The 5th gen Explorer has an Internal water pump. If you use the Search feature you will find several several threads on that subject. Here is one of them. Water pump failure leads to dead engine I'm guessing that the "gentleman" at the dealer isn't too familiar with that engine.

Peter

 

[blwnsmoke]

Well I'm almost done building and verifying a parts list for my 2014 Explorer. Its interesting to note that the gentleman I'm working with at the dealer says this is an "old architecture" design. Only has phasers on the intake cams. Also trying to figure out some confusion on the water pump. His initial thoughts on the parts diagram was that it has an external water pump. Waiting for a reply. Eventually I'll post my parts list once its finalized.

Sooo.. there is already a parts list out there for timing chain changes... it is posted in slreadsheet format in the water pump failure thread.

Pretty sad your dealer doesnt know since 2011 it has an internal water pump.

 

[boominXplorer]

It has phasers on both cams and you'll need the bolts for both on the rear, you have to remove them to get to one of the guides.

 

[buck91]

Yeah, this guy I'm working with... Good prices but its not very smooth. So the parts list I found is from a post on FordFlex.net. Looking at his parts list wouldn't these be the same parts I need? He is working on a 2010 EB, but he converted to 2012+ parts.

 

[peterk9]

any update on this??

Peter

 

[yfz162]

any update on this??

Peter

This.....I would also like to know if this job is even possible without dropping the engine???
Thanks!

 

[yfz162]

I have done lot's of research and I know this topic has been beat to death but I have not found a definitive answer. I have a 13 Explorer Sport with the twin turbo 3.5, can the timing chain replacement be done with the engine in the vehicle or does the engine cradle need to be dropped down??? I do not have a lift, but I am not paying anyone else to do this lol.

Thanks!

 

[BrettS.]

You can do the repair with the engine in the vehicle. I just did it this weekend on a 14 EB with 125k. You need to remove both valve covers and intake manifold. Remove the front tire and wheelhouse cover, support the engine, and remove the front cover. You alternate between working through the wheel well and from above. I replaced the timing chains, tensioners, guides, solenoids, phasers, water pump, and oil pump. You need a TP55 Torx Plus bit for the intake phasers and exhaust cam gears. They are on there tight. I had to use a torch to heat mine up and a 3ft breaker bar to get them off. They were on tighter then the crank bolt! Also need the cam holder tool. I did an oil change during install and then another after driving to flush out. You get oil and coolant mixed together during install. My A/C line was not in the way at all. Not even close. There is enough room to work between the engine and frame rail. Sometimes I raised or lowered the engine to reach things better; especially the motor mount to front cover bolts. I applied the gasket maker to the engine block and heads instead of the engine cover. I also let it dry overnight before adding fluids.

It is a time consuming job. Took me a 3 day weekend to do it with a lift and air tools. Engine started to rattle on startup. Then I started getting cam OBD codes. Then it started to run really rough and I got multiple misfires.

My parts list
Cloyes 90738SBWP Timing Chain Kit and Water Pump
Fel-Pro VS50884R Valve Cover Gasket Kit
Mahle JV5183 Timing Cover/Intake Manifold Gasket Kit
Melling M390 Oil Pump
Ford Phaser/cam intake sprocket BA5Z-6A257-E (right side) comes with new bolt
Ford Phaser/cam intake sprocket BA5Z-6A257-D (left side) comes with new bolt
Ford Solenoids 7T4Z6M280C (x2)
Ford Crankshaft Bolt F5RZ-6A340-B
Ford Exhaust Sprocket Camshaft Bolts AT4Z-6279-D (x2)
WIX 57502 Oil Filter x 2
12 quarts of 5w30
(I reused my serpentine belt and tensioner as they were recently replaced. But I would consider it while you are in there)

Special Tools
TP55 Torque plus bit
Cam tool holder
Rented Chrysler Harmonic Balancer Removal Tool

 

[peelman]

You can do the repair with the engine in the vehicle. I just did it this weekend on a 14 EB with 125k. You need to remove both valve covers and intake manifold. Remove the front tire and wheelhouse cover, support the engine, and remove the front cover. You alternate between working through the wheel well and from above. I replaced the timing chains, tensioners, guides, solenoids, phasers, water pump, and oil pump. You need a TP55 Torx Plus bit for the intake phasers and exhaust cam gears. They are on there tight. I had to use a torch to heat mine up and a 3ft breaker bar to get them off. They were on tighter then the crank bolt! Also need the cam holder tool. I did an oil change during install and then another after driving to flush out. You get oil and coolant mixed together during install. My A/C line was not in the way at all. Not even close. There is enough room to work between the engine and frame rail. Sometimes I raised or lowered the engine to reach things better; especially the motor mount to front cover bolts. I applied the gasket maker to the engine block and heads instead of the engine cover. I also let it dry overnight before adding fluids.

It is a time consuming job. Took me a 3 day weekend to do it with a lift and air tools. Engine started to rattle on startup. Then I started getting cam OBD codes. Then it started to run really rough and I got multiple misfires.

My parts list
Cloyes 90738SBWP Timing Chain Kit and Water Pump
Fel-Pro VS50884R Valve Cover Gasket Kit
Mahle JV5183 Timing Cover/Intake Manifold Gasket Kit
Melling M390 Oil Pump
Ford Phaser/cam intake sprocket BA5Z-6A257-E (right side) comes with new bolt
Ford Phaser/cam intake sprocket BA5Z-6A257-D (left side) comes with new bolt
Ford Solenoids 7T4Z6M280C (x2)
Ford Crankshaft Bolt F5RZ-6A340-B
Ford Exhaust Sprocket Camshaft Bolts AT4Z-6279-D (x2)
WIX 57502 Oil Filter x 2
12 quarts of 5w30
(I reused my serpentine belt and tensioner as they were recently replaced. But I would consider it while you are in there)

Special Tools
TP55 Torque plus bit
Cam tool holder
Rented Chrysler Harmonic Balancer Removal Tool

Awesome write up, greatly appreciated! Can you include some torque specs whenever you’re able?

 

[jons901]

... I applied the gasket maker to the engine block and heads instead of the engine cover. I also let it dry overnight before adding fluids.

...

Hey BrettS I am in the middle of this job right now as well on a 3.5 TiVCT. What did you use for the timing cover gasket maker? The Motorcraft TA-357 or something else?

 

[jons901]

Awesome write up, greatly appreciated! Can you include some torque specs whenever you’re able?

Which specs are you looking for? The phaser and front cover have detailed torque specs and process as some are torque to yield:

So like the cam phasers are:

• Stage 1: Tighten to 40 Nm (30 lb-ft).

• Stage 2: Loosen one full turn.
• Stage 3: Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
• Stage 4: Tighten 90 degrees.

Or the crankshaft pulley is:

Install the crankshaft pulley washer and new bolt and tighten in 4 stages.

• Stage 1: Tighten to 120 Nm (89 lb-ft).
• Stage 2: Loosen one full turn.
• Stage 3: Tighten to 50 Nm (37 lb-ft).
• Stage 4: Tighten an additional 90 degrees.

You can get the workshop manual for the 2014 explorer line here, but it has not been updated since 2013

2014 Ford Explorer Workshop Manual + Wiring Diagrams | PDFs Free Online

Find the best 2014 Ford Explorer Workshop Manual + Wiring Diagrams

cardiagn.com

 

[BrettS.]

For the torque specs my local public library has Chilton's online. I printed off the instructions for the valve covers, intake, front engine cover, timing cover, etc. The instructions had the torque specs for every bolt which I generally followed on bolts that matter. Most of the time the 8mm head bolts were 89 inch pounds. I can't remember the other ones off-hand or the Torque to Yield bolts. Most of the bolts are either 8mm, 10mm, or 15mm. Majority are 8 and 10 mm.

The Cloyes 90738SBWP kit came with gasket maker which I used. As long as it is cured I don't see a reason there would be a performance difference between the different gasket makers. I think prep is more important. I scrape both surfaces with a razor blade held perpendicular until surface is smooth. Then clean with brake clean. Then clean again one more time right before I install.

Also I could not believe the build-up of carbon on the intake valves. Yikes! It was bad. Real bad! Intake and throttle body looked fine. I guess my intercooler weep hole and meth are keeping them clean. But the valves. I tried to get a pic with my phone but couldn't. This summer I am going to walnut blast them clean.

 

[jons901]

The Cloyes 90738SBWP kit came with gasket maker which I used. As long as it is cured I don't see a reason there would be a performance difference between the different gasket makers. I think prep is more important. I scrape both surfaces with a razor blade held perpendicular until surface is smooth. Then clean with brake clean. Then clean again one more time right before I install.

That is wild. I got the same kit with out the water pump but it did not include gasket material for the timing cover. I got a Motorcraft water pump and the kit both from Rockauto. Ford says use the TA-357 but I am worried about the 5 min set up time to get the cover on and first bolts in. Others have used Permatex Ultra Grey but I have not heard future feedback if it worked long term or not.

My plan for cleaning the gasket surface is the same as you referenced. Thanks!

 

[BrettS.]

No that's not right. I was wrong. It came in the Mahle JV5183 kit not the Cloyes. My mistake. I put the gasket maker on then had the cover on in a couple minutes. It didn't skin over.

I did a dry run to practice how I would slide the cover down and in. Then cleaned both surfaces one more time. Put the gasket maker on the block, stuck a couple bolts next to me, slid the cover into place and started the top bolts to hold it in place. Then I went into the wheel well and put in the other bolts and tightened them down. Went back up top and tightened them down. The put in the mount and the rest of the bolts.

I had plenty of room to slide the cover down then onto the block. I didn't smear any or struggle trying to get it to line up. It went pretty smooth and that was what I was worried about the most.

 

[jons901]

No that's not right. I was wrong. It came in the Mahle JV5183 kit not the Cloyes. My mistake. I put the gasket maker on then had the cover on in a couple minutes. It didn't skin over.

I did a dry run to practice how I would slide the cover down and in. Then cleaned both surfaces one more time. Put the gasket maker on the block, stuck a couple bolts next to me, slid the cover into place and started the top bolts to hold it in place. Then I went into the wheel well and put in the other bolts and tightened them down. Went back up top and tightened them down. The put in the mount and the rest of the bolts.

I had plenty of room to slide the cover down then onto the block. I didn't smear any or struggle trying to get it to line up. It went pretty smooth and that was what I was worried about the most.

Thanks! Fingers crossed I will be up and running later this week.